Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab
The video doesn't really show anything without a comparison. Need to cut up a new tire to find out if there is any difference.
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Agree. Not sure why he didn't bother to read the material listing on the tire sidewall. No mention of Fiberglass means no Fiberglass in the tire.
"I think there is metal in the tread" again read the sidewall.
Same for sidewall Polyester cord. What is the strength per cord of the polyester of this tire vs a similar size Goodyear or Michelin? The fact that it is possible to cut the sidewall with a razor blade box cutter knife means little unless he can demonstrate the same can't be done on a 1st class USA made tire.
Fiberglass wouldn't work in the sidewall as it can not tolerate the level of bending sidewalls experience.
Comments on the "small gauge" of the high strength bead wire. Not sure if he was expecting a single hoop of steel but it would be almost impossible to mount a tire as unless you have a multi-istrand hoop you can not oval the bead to "button hook" over the rim flange. Where is the comparison data? What is the tensile strength of the bead wires in this "junk" tire vs a 1st class US made Goodyear?
"Rubber didn't vulcanize together properly" is based on experience of examining how many hundreds of tires that have been in trailer service with the high Interply Shear forces?
How many miles at what load and what speed & inflation were these tires run?
Would it be better if there was no detachment at the belt edges? Yes of course but we have no idea of the tire use so have no information on probable cause for small detachment.
Maybe the main reason is the selection of tire capacity by the RV company. Look at his
comparing the tires on a U-Haul trailer with RV application. I've been suggesting 85% actual load as the max percent of tire capacity Also no speed faster than 65 and always run tire max inflation to lower the
Interply Shear.