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01-27-2012, 06:53 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 61
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EZ Lube Axles
I have a 2011 Work and Play 30WR. Each wheel hub has a grease fitting. I read about EZ lube Axles. What are EZ Lube Axles and how do you know if you have them? I am thinking some axles are made for grease fittings and some just have buddy bearing on it?
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01-27-2012, 07:18 PM
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#2
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Lou Amadio
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 6,303
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Here is a graphic that shows how an EZ lube works.
AL-KO Kober - Brakes, Hubs & Drums
Here is where to order parts:
etrailer.com - Al-Ko
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Lou and Laura Amadio and Bella the German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS 5th Wheel Pullrite Hitch
(2009: 28) (2010: 74) (2011: 93) (2012: 7)
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01-27-2012, 07:47 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 61
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That is really great information thanks. I printed some of it out to keep in my folder. From what I can see I do have EZ Lube Axles. And it looks like I got to keep pumping in grease till I see it come back out?
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01-27-2012, 08:11 PM
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#4
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Lou Amadio
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 6,303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1l243
That is really great information thanks. I printed some of it out to keep in my folder. From what I can see I do have EZ Lube Axles. And it looks like I got to keep pumping in grease till I see it come back out?
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Yes. It seems to save a few cents per camper the hubs are not filled at the factory; nor do the dealers fill them when they repack them.
They justify this travesty by telling you that since they need to be inspected annually anyway, filling the hubs is a waste of money.
What rubbish. Why put EZ lubes on in that case?
One warning. NEVER, NEVER, use an air or electric powered grease gun to lube your hubs. ONLY use a manual grease gun. It is VERY easy to blow the rear "lip" seal and get grease on your brake drums.
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Lou and Laura Amadio and Bella the German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS 5th Wheel Pullrite Hitch
(2009: 28) (2010: 74) (2011: 93) (2012: 7)
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01-27-2012, 08:14 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 61
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Thanks I will remember that..
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01-30-2012, 09:11 PM
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#6
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Dallas Texas
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 96
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Lou - How do I figure out what axles I have. I'm certian they are the original. Is the load rating stamped somewhere? I've been looking at the etrailer.com site but not knowing what I have doesn't help in buying parts.
Not trying to hijack the thread - similar subject so I'm asking here.
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2003 Cardinal 33CKT
2006 Ford SD F250 CC 4WD
2001 Coleman Santa Fe (to be sold)
1984 Honda Magna V65
1963 M50 Harley Davisdon
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01-30-2012, 09:28 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 576
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Be vary careful filling the ezhubs. I did mine last fall with a hand gun. Rear seal did not hold. I pumped grease into the break area. Did not know till going down first large hill in northern Ont. had so much grease on brakes had to replace inner plate and breaks at a cost of $85 each. Will never use grease gun on bearings again. Will pull and pack bearing the old fashion way.
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Terry and Janet
2008 3001W Windjammer
2007 Ford F150
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01-30-2012, 10:00 PM
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#8
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Lou Amadio
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 6,303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasBBQ
Lou - How do I figure out what axles I have. I'm certian they are the original. Is the load rating stamped somewhere? I've been looking at the etrailer.com site but not knowing what I have doesn't help in buying parts.
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My info packet had the Al-Ko axle warranty info in it, but nothing else. The build sheet said it was a Dexter but the warranty card was Al-Ko.
I crawled under the camper to verify the serial numbers since somthing was obviously wrong.
The axles each had a manufacturer's plate with model and serial number located about in the center of the axle on my 5th wheel.
As to seal blow out with a hand pump, unless you are King Kong with the pump handle it is hard to push grease past a good rear seal. In my case one of my OEM Zerks was so clogged with dirt and dry grease I needed to replace it.
The mechanic who last inspected your brakes may not have put a new seal on when he pulled your hub, or he might have scratched the surface of the seal on the spindle threads sliding the hub back on. Both cases could have caused your leaker when using a hand pump to flush your hubs.
My guess is the are mechanics who service these things try to save a few bucks by not putting new rear seals on if they look OK when they do repacks and inspections.
__________________

Lou and Laura Amadio and Bella the German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS 5th Wheel Pullrite Hitch
(2009: 28) (2010: 74) (2011: 93) (2012: 7)
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01-31-2012, 07:12 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 237
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Good information.
One more tip, they recommend rotating the tire by hand when pumping the grease into the hub. Very good ides, distributes the grease more evenly thoughout the hub & bearing.
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2013 Palomino Columbus 320RS
2007 Dodge RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins
Reese 15K manual slider
Prodigy
M.I.L. still at the zoo, feels at home.
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01-31-2012, 12:25 PM
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#10
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Dallas Texas
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
My info packet had the Al-Ko axle warranty info in it, but nothing else. The build sheet said it was a Dexter but the warranty card was Al-Ko.
I crawled under the camper to verify the serial numbers since somthing was obviously wrong.
The axles each had a manufacturer's plate with model and serial number located about in the center of the axle on my 5th wheel.
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I'll get under there this weekend and take a look.
__________________
2003 Cardinal 33CKT
2006 Ford SD F250 CC 4WD
2001 Coleman Santa Fe (to be sold)
1984 Honda Magna V65
1963 M50 Harley Davisdon
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