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Old 04-16-2014, 09:53 PM   #1
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Ez lube bearings

Spent this afternoon with my grease gun trying to lubricate the bearings on our Crusader 270RET. The first wheel I tried first off did not co-operate at all. Did not have the wheel off the ground, I was told it was not necessary, after six pumps nothing came out of the hub at all, nothing. Is it necessary to have the wheels off the ground as described in the video??? Please let me know as I have no tried the other three as yet??
kickster
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:06 PM   #2
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First time, I always lift the wheel off the ground and spin it. The first time takes a lot of grease since there is usually a void between the front/rear bearings inside the hub.
Then the following year, I don't lift and I don't spin, I just pump a few pumps and grease will start to come out.
After three years, I pull the hubs off and replace seals and usually, break shoes.

I've had good luck. Some will say the air void between the front and rear bearings is a good thing, I've had some engineers tell me it makes no difference. But from personal experience over the years (not necessarily with tent campers but with trailers), I've never had a problem. But some have....
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:07 PM   #3
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When you pumped did it feel easy or very hard to pump? Or did the grease shoot out between the grease zerk fitting and the end of the grease gun? I had an issue with the all four of my grease zeros being defective and not allowing grease to pass through them. I replaced them and proceeded to pump an extraordinary , at least to me, amount of grease in each bearing. For mine 6 pumps wasn't even a good start. Don't pump too fast or you could blow out the rear seal.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:56 PM   #4
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first time i used the zerks all my hubs took 1/4 to a half a tube of synth grease!! i dont remember how many pumps, but it was wayyyy more than 6......i was petrified that the seals had leaked to i pulled the wheels.....no leak...just a lotta pumps before it came out the front....

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Old 04-18-2014, 11:54 PM   #5
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Lesson Learned

Really appreciate your post on these wheel bearing EZ Lube System. Did the same thing you did this morning, elevated each wheel off the ground, pulled the brake drum that I worked on yesterday, no grease on the inside, but very little grease on the bearings and shaft either. Put the brake drum back on, pumped no less than twelve pumps to get it to flow, quite surprised how black the old grease was with only 2000 miles on the coach
Every thing greased, cleaned and torqued to factory specs. I'm afraid this coach would have never made it on a 12k trip that we have coming up in three weeks, thanks again
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
First time, I always lift the wheel off the ground and spin it. The first time takes a lot of grease since there is usually a void between the front/rear bearings inside the hub.
Then the following year, I don't lift and I don't spin, I just pump a few pumps and grease will start to come out.
After three years, I pull the hubs off and replace seals and usually, break shoes.

I've had good luck. Some will say the air void between the front and rear bearings is a good thing, I've had some engineers tell me it makes no difference. But from personal experience over the years (not necessarily with tent campers but with trailers), I've never had a problem. But some have....
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:29 AM   #6
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Burned a bearing on the rear axel last year (very ugly). First greasing came late, 3500 miles (my fault). Mechanics say the bearing may not be hand packed at the factory. Their pumped from the hub. Two schools of thought, 1) Replace all bearings now ($10.00ea). Have them hand packed and then reinstall them. 2) Take the bearings to a ASE mechanic and have them cleaned, inspected, and then hand packed and then reinstall them. Oh by the way the axel cost $2,100.00, yea pay me now or pay me later. Life's a dance we learn as we go.
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:41 AM   #7
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May take a set with me just in case, could not believe what a small amount of grease was actually in the bearings, that is what prompted me to check them out, now they have plenty of grease. Did hand pack one just see how well the EZ lube system worked, hand packing is still the way to go. Packed a many of bearings by hand on our voodoo's back in the Air Force, never had a bearing failure in four years. Thanks for the tips..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donanddona View Post
Burned a bearing on the rear axel last year (very ugly). First greasing came late, 3500 miles (my fault). Mechanics say the bearing may not be hand packed at the factory. Their pumped from the hub. Two schools of thought, 1) Replace all bearings now ($10.00ea). Have them hand packed and then reinstall them. 2) Take the bearings to a ASE mechanic and have them cleaned, inspected, and then hand packed and then reinstall them. Oh by the way the axel cost $2,100.00, yea pay me now or pay me later. Life's a dance we learn as we go.
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:48 AM   #8
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My ez lube put as much grease in the bearing as after a hand pack....it just uses a LOT of grease if starting from a new/dry condition.....I wanted to say 15+ pumps but I couldent remember...I still would/do inspect and hand pack every cple of years.....my original grease that came out was very dark....but who knows what color it was going in..?..

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Old 04-19-2014, 12:59 AM   #9
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Good Point

never know that for sure, the red stuff I used sure looks a lot better, the axles looked pretty good, but with only 2000 mies on they should..take care




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Originally Posted by ironj View Post
My ez lube put as much grease in the bearing as after a hand pack....it just uses a LOT of grease if starting from a new/dry condition.....I wanted to say 15+ pumps but I couldent remember...I still would/do inspect and hand pack every cple of years.....my original grease that came out was very dark....but who knows what color it was going in..?..

sent from fat fingers via a space dish thing with no regard to grammer.
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