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03-11-2015, 09:19 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 37
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EZ-Lube Hubs and Bearing Seals
I have EZ-lube hubs on my fifth wheel. I know you are supposes to pump grease into the hub until you see clean grease come out of the front bearing. My concern is grease getting past the seal into the brake assembly. Has anyone had this problem?
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03-11-2015, 09:23 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,031
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Many people have had good luck with their EZ-Lube hubs but not me. had grease bypass seals and coat brakes. did not know till going down a hill and had no trailer brakes. I no longer have the EX-Lubes fittings on the unit. had to replace all four brakes assemblies and changed out hubs at same time because of grease build up.
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Terry and Janet
2008 3001W Windjammer
2007 Ford F150
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03-11-2015, 09:27 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Do a (Search) on this issue at the Top of page! Days of Reading! Youroo!!
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03-11-2015, 09:27 AM
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#4
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper
Many people have had good luck with their EZ-Lube hubs but not me. had grease bypass seals and coat brakes. did not know till going down a hill and had no trailer brakes. I no longer have the EX-Lubes fittings on the unit. had to replace all four brakes assemblies and changed out hubs at same time because of grease build up.
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Why change the hubs due to grease build up when they can be cleaned? Looks like you had bad seals that caused the problem.
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03-11-2015, 09:35 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,294
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To minimize the risk of bypassing the seals be sure to follow the following tips
Make sure grease in the hub is warm ( either after driving or very warm day)
Make sure the grease you are adding is warm
Pump grease gun slowly so as to allow grease to flow with out building up too much pressure.
Do not use an air operated grease gun.
If seals are installed properly and you follow above suggestions, you should be OK.
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03-11-2015, 09:37 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,102
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This horse has been beaten, dragged and throne off the cliff many times.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-or-67243.html
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Ontario
Current: 2019 Sunseeker 2290S
Previous (2012-2016): 2012 Vibe 6501
1 Prospector Canoe, 2 Mtn. Bikes & 4 Hiking Boots
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03-11-2015, 09:39 AM
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#7
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
To minimize the risk of bypassing the seals be sure to follow the following tips
Make sure grease in the hub is warm ( either after driving or very warm day)
Make sure the grease you are adding is warm
Pump grease gun slowly so as to allow grease to flow with out building up too much pressure.
Do not use an air operated grease gun.
If seals are installed properly and you follow above suggestions, you should be OK.
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Add to the list to make sure you have US made seals!!!
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03-11-2015, 09:40 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: mid Michigam
Posts: 124
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I had no problem. First time through it will take about a tube of greese an axle. Use a manual gun, not a pneumatic.
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2013 Salem Hemisphere 286 RLT
2009 Silverado 2500HD
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03-11-2015, 09:42 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
To minimize the risk of bypassing the seals be sure to follow the following tips
Make sure grease in the hub is warm ( either after driving or very warm day)
Make sure the grease you are adding is warm
Pump grease gun slowly so as to allow grease to flow with out building up too much pressure.
Do not use an air operated grease gun.
If seals are installed properly and you follow above suggestions, you should be OK.
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I think Dexter also recommends rotating the wheel while adding grease.
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2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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03-11-2015, 09:56 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Add to the list to make sure you have US made seals!!!
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your the only person who can find USA seals, even Napa say's that all bearings and seals are now made over sea's. It not the seals it how you put in the grease. Pretty easy to tell if you blew your seal. And yes I know that your new bearings say USA on them. You can buy USA made bearings on ebay. But who knows how many sets that guy bought when they were still made here. Maybe Napa was wrong with the info they gave me. I agree with flybob.
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Concord
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03-11-2015, 10:05 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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I have yet to do this myself. A bit scary.
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2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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03-11-2015, 10:23 AM
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#12
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
your the only person who can find USA seals, even Napa say's that all bearings and seals are now made over sea's. It not the seals it how you put in the grease. Pretty easy to tell if you blew your seal. And yes I know that your new bearings say USA on them. You can buy USA made bearings on ebay. But who knows how many sets that guy bought when they were still made here. Maybe Napa was wrong with the info they gave me. I agree with flybob.
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Don't know how you can tell if you have a blown/defective seal until your brakes go bad. Maybe Napa doesn't stock US made seals?
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03-11-2015, 11:06 AM
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#13
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AKA: 'tiredTeacher
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 1,045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litgrep
I had no problem. First time through it will take about a tube of greese an axle. Use a manual gun, not a pneumatic.
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And that's my objection to the EZ Lube setup. Not the cost but the result - a hub full of grease.
FWIW, I'm an ASA certified Master Mechanic and have taught brakes and front end at a local tech school before retiring. Just using common sense will make it obvious to anyone that the only grease that is "working" is the grease packed within the bearing rollers and races. A little extra grease should be placed on the inside edges of the inner and outer bearings to be picked up as needed while the trailer is rolling down the road. The inside of the hub should remain grease free to allow for expansion and heat dissipation. That's the way they came from Dexter, isn't it? That's why it takes a tube per axle. You're filling up the hub Dexter left empty, as they should.
I wonder how many users of the EZ Lube axles who thought they had forced grease past their seals were actually victims of heat expanding the grease with no place for it to go.
Just my 2 cents.
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Wright and Penny
(with Fitz and Lizzie, the camping kitties)
Richmond, Va.
2010 Tundra 4X4 5.7L V8
2014 Rockwood 2604WS
Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows.
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03-11-2015, 11:17 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,102
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If the grease expanse it will come out the front of the hub the same as it does when you put grease in the zerk.
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Ontario
Current: 2019 Sunseeker 2290S
Previous (2012-2016): 2012 Vibe 6501
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03-11-2015, 11:18 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central New York
Posts: 1,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awellis3
And that's my objection to the EZ Lube setup. Not the cost but the result - a hub full of grease.
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I was asking a few questions about the E-Z Lube axles last time I had our Roo at the dealer. The mechanic there told me their recommendation to everybody who had E-Z Lube hubs was to not use the grease fittings. This surprised me, but the reason was that they get a lot of seal failures in for repair after owners have greased them which is an expensive job. Its not everyone that has an issue, but they see enough of them that they recommend just treating them like traditional bearings. Inspect annually, re-pack as needed. It also eliminates the issues of incompatible grease being added and the mess of completely filling the hub.
Something to consider, I guess. But it certainly surprised me when the tech's opinion was that the E-Z lube's create enough issues that worth considering not using the grease fittings.
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03-11-2015, 11:18 AM
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#16
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AKA: 'tiredTeacher
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 1,045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Vibe
If the grease expanse it will come out the front of the hub the same as it does when you put grease in the zerk.
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You run with the grease cap off?
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Wright and Penny
(with Fitz and Lizzie, the camping kitties)
Richmond, Va.
2010 Tundra 4X4 5.7L V8
2014 Rockwood 2604WS
Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows.
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03-11-2015, 11:27 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,102
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There is a rubber plug in the end , no grease cap on the ez-lube like I had on my non ex-lube axle.
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Ontario
Current: 2019 Sunseeker 2290S
Previous (2012-2016): 2012 Vibe 6501
1 Prospector Canoe, 2 Mtn. Bikes & 4 Hiking Boots
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03-11-2015, 01:05 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 641
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I agree with awillis3 You should never pack the bearing Assembly full of grease. I have run into many failed bearings over the past many year due to too much grease. It traps the heat in the bearing as it is an insulator and will not let the heat transfer to the wheel hub. This will overheat the bearing and will cause the bearing to fail.
hope this helps Tim
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03-11-2015, 03:24 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
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Greased my bearings last summer on my unit. Went on line and found several real good videos on how to do it. Replaced old grease with a different cooler grease so I could tell when most of it was out. As I greased each wheel I spun the tire. Had a container along with a stick to get rid of the old grease. Took some time but felt it went real well.
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03-11-2015, 03:30 PM
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#20
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Well, when I get the rest of my new Timken bearings and SKF seals, I will repack them and fill the cavities with Lucas Red "N" Tacky via the grease fitting on the end of the axle like I have for the last 9 years. Haven't had a problem yet, but who knows???
Got the 4 outer brgs today. Guess where they were made?
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