Floor bolts backing out

LoriMeyer · 08-17-2016, 08:55 PM

I've been trying to find info on how to fix the bolts that are backing out of my floor. When we bought our TT (2011 FR Rockwood Windjammer) I noticed a small bump in the floor, didn't think anything of it. Since we've been traveling there are now 5 bumps, two are getting progressively worse and eventually will probably come through the floor.

I can't access them from underneath and I'm afraid to cut the flooring and ruin it but I don't think there are any other options. What if I can't tighten them?

Any words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated.

**Bama Rambler** · 08-18-2016, 09:57 AM

I can't see the picture on either of my devices.

Why can't you access them from underneath the unit?

Thurman · 08-18-2016, 10:05 AM

"LoriMeyer", photos say so much more than we can explain. IF you can take and post photos that would really help. My thoughts: Are these "bolts" maybe actually screws? Are they under a floor covering so that you cannot see the actual bolt/screw, but can feel the bump? Are they near something that is bolted/screwed to the floor? There are so many variables here that we, on this forum, cannot offer help at this time. We just need a bit more info to help you.

LoriMeyer · 08-18-2016, 10:19 AM

They are bumps directly under the linoleum, maybe screws that are coming up. I can't access them from underneath because there is another subfloor covering them. I believe they are screws securing the wood flooring to the frame. There are 10 bumps in all, 2 are really coming up.

**Bama Rambler** · 08-18-2016, 10:56 AM

If the other sub-floor is the coroplast underbelly covering, you should remove it and then you may be able to access the screws/bolts.

If they are screws, and you can't access them from underneath, the bad news is that you'll most likely have to damage the flooring in order to fix the problem.

If you could see the tips of them under the floor, you may be able to take a good pair of Vise-Grip type pliers and grip it and 'screw' them back in.

LoriMeyer · 08-18-2016, 11:21 AM

The bad news is I have to cut the flooring. The screws are located under another sub floor after I cut open the chloroplast underbelly.

ShermanD · 08-18-2016, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoriMeyer

The bad news is I have to cut the flooring. The screws are located under another sub floor after I cut open the chloroplast underbelly.

Then you need a sharp razor knife and a heat gun ( a good hair dryer may work).

Heat the area around one of the screws, cut an x about 2 by 2 centered directly over the screw, then carefully lift he corners while heating them so they bend instead of break. Tighten the screw. Add a bit of adhesive and carefully bend the flooring back down. If you have a small rolling pin, you can roll the area while keeping heat on it and it may lay back down so you can barely see the incision.

Thurman · 08-18-2016, 03:48 PM

ShermanD's answer is exactly what I would do. I have seen nails in residential structures with linoleum work out and make a bump such as what you have. Do what ShermanD suggested then lay something, a towel or piece of cardboard, on the floor to keep from damaging the linoleum and IF it is a nail pull it out. Go to a home building supply store and find some "pallet nails" or "screw nails" the same length. Replace the nails that are coming up with these. I'm thinking that the factory fastens the flooring to metal parts of the frame and the fasteners are likely a screw. IF the fasteners are screws you can reuse the same one's but I would add something like "Gorilla glue" to them to keep them from backing out again. When you are ready to put the linoleum back into place use some regular super glue under each flap of linoleum to keep it down.

beechjr · 08-18-2016, 04:59 PM

My blue ridge fifth wheel did the same thing, had to remove the underbelly cover and use channel lock pliers and screw back into frame. Also put nut on bottom to lock in place😡 suggest checking all while underneath, was not easy job. Mine where carriage head bolts attaching subfloor to frame, do not know if yours is the same, but it sounds like it. Good luck

Still Kickin · 08-18-2016, 05:11 PM

Are we still in warranty. If not looks like the cut-X method would be your best bet.

Telstar · 08-18-2016, 05:27 PM

Probably the tank hanger bolts weren't tightened properly. We have carpet and wood planking in our Cardinal. For the ones under carpet I just cut a slit and tightened them. The one forcing the word up I was able to remove two planks, tighten bolt and reinstall wood. There may be one coming up in bath which is vynal so that will be mor proplematic.

Quilter3446 · 08-18-2016, 08:53 PM

We had what appears to be the same issue with our Cherokee.
We were told the flooring is only glued down around the furnace openings and around the outside edges.
The service folks were able to carefully lift the flooring and reset the nails that had worked loose. It has been over a year and the floor still looks perfect. No cutting, dents, or dings.
Good luck with your repairs.

hillsdaletc · 08-19-2016, 07:09 AM

First, looking closely can you tell if you are looking at the pointed end of the screw or is it large enough to be the head end of the screw backing out. If the points are protruding then there is no sense cutting the floor. You will need to back them out from below and install a shorter screw but not in the same holes.
It c old be if this it a toy hauler , that weight in the rear is causing frame flex, this will cause the screws to work up out of the frame.
Second when we do floor repairs we have a local flooring installer do repairs. He will come and he needs to know the mfr. and type of vinyl. Each vinyl flooring material has a different type of repair adhesive. It was pretty educational to see him do the repairs. He has replaced pieces in the middle of the floor and you can't see the seams.
Some glues will swell the vinyl and show . From someone who has tried the repair.

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