Front hydraulic jacks dropping when hooked up

[Curt Hinson]

Hi everyone, new to this particular forum, but have a problem with my 05 Cedar Creek 37RDQS in that my right front jack will drop to within one inch of the pavement and the left one will drop approx 2 inches. This happens only when hooked up ready for travel. The unit sat for 8 months in my shelter and did not drop an inch. The camper repair place says that it is a by-pass solenoid or something like that, but I called and talked to lippert and they recommended doing a by-pass check on the cylinders in the front legs. Since the switch is located on the side of the camper, I can't reach it to perform this check, and if the switch is pushed "DOWN" you have one heck of a mess. That is why I do not request the help of the wife. It is currently in the shop and I received a call this morning stating that they had closed the legs off and there was no drop (what ever that means) so they were going with replacing the by-pass solenoid. For some reason, I can't but help but believe that the problem is the cylinder seals are allowing fluid to leak past but not out of the system. I sure would hate that their fix did not fix the problem and I had to pay for both their fix and new cylinders.

Any comments would be appreciated.

TIA, Curt Hinson

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Curt Hinson

Hi everyone, new to this particular forum, but have a problem \ that they had closed the legs off and there was no drop (what ever that means) so they were going with replacing the by-pass solenoid. For some reason, I can't but help but believe that the problem is the cylinder seals are allowing fluid to leak past but not out of the system. I sure would hate that their fix did not fix the problem and I had to pay for both their fix and new cylinders.

Any comments would be appreciated.

TIA, Curt Hinson

"Drop" can be a short version of "pressure drop". Its when a device using gas or fluid is put under test pressure and watched with instuments for change. It could mean no piston movement, no internal leak or no external leak, because the pressure applied is constant. A solonoid is lots cheaper than two jacks. Hope it works for ya. Welcome to this forum.

[mikey]

I would bleed the lines of air ensuring a vacuum when you power down the Hydraulic system.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by mikey

I would bleed the lines of air ensuring a vacuum when you power down the Hydraulic system.

From what I've read, the Lippert system in the Georgetown uses bidirectional operation where there is always pressure on jack pistons and slide cylinders, both sides. Other designs used various RV's used the same principle. When the system commands a change in position, the piston is powered on one side and released on the other. When you release the power, the piston locks in its new position. This accounts for the numerous hose failures both black and orange which are deploy and retract. Always pressured, guessing around 1600 psi. There's and alarm on the controls to warn of low system pressure (1500 psi). The system is self venting of air just due to the fluid returns to the tank each time the pistons are retracted. Note there are no return springs on anything therefore you need pressure to return and hold. They think the ops problem is a leaking valve that holds the return pressures.

I checked the Lippert and Cedar Creek web sites and at least mostof them use the hydraulic system I'm referring to. Can't tell what it was in 07 but not a lot has changed.

[Curt Hinson]

I do want to apologize for not getting back with you guys, but I have been busy. I am going down the the RV Repair tomorrow morning to tell them to replace the solenoid which is what they wanted to do in the first place. Actually, I had already told them to "FIX THE DARN THING", but things being what they are, they probably did not hear me.

Originally Posted by mikey

I would bleed the lines of air ensuring a vacuum when you power down the Hydraulic system.

Mikey, I am sure that there is no air in the lines. The reservoir is filled up to within 1/2" (or less) from the top and I always run the pump for a few seconds after pulling everything in (and up).

The problem is not with the jacks extended. It sat for 8 months under the camper shelter with no leak down. When the camper is hooked up to the truck, the feet start to drift down. The right one will drop to within 1" of the driveway. The left one drops approx 2". There is no oil leak anywhere.

I have pictures and will post them as soon as I locate them. I think they are on my notebook.

Thanks for the replys.

Curt

[Curt Hinson]

As promised, here is one picture of the front jacks showing the drop while hooked up to my truck in front of my garage.

[VinceU]

Have you attempted to tighten the manifold solenoids rhat serve these jacks? They can bach out. On top of pump turn CW to tighten each location.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Have you attempted to tighten the manifold solenoids rhat serve these jacks? They can bach out. On top of pump turn CW to tighten each location.

Sorry mistype- CCW to tighten

[Curt Hinson]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Have you attempted to tighten the manifold solenoids rhat serve these jacks? They can bach out. On top of pump turn CW to tighten each location.

No Vince, I did not check the manifold solenoids. The repairmen at the RV repair center was quite certain that the manifold solenoid was the problem. I do not have the camper since I delivered it to them last week and just this morning I called and told them to fix the camper. I can't use it the way it is. The only alternatives I have to fixing it is to trade it in (they would like that) or get out of camping for ever.

Curt

[Curt Hinson]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Sorry mistype- CCW to tighten

Thanks for the correction Vince. I keep these type of things for future reference since I perform at least 95% of all of my repairs. My arms weren't long enough for this one, and I didn't trust the wife to push the button.

Curt

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Curt Hinson

Thanks for the correction Vince. I keep these type of things for future reference since I perform at least 95% of all of my repairs. My arms weren't long enough for this one, and I didn't trust the wife to push the button.

Curt

Don't sell it, that would be overkill. I'm thinking of adding some light springs to my four jack locations to prevent your problem. The assemblies are not heavy (alum) and wouldn't take much to hold them back in event of system failure. You could even use "stirrups", of leather or strong straps instead just for piece of mind when underway. I'd hate to become a "road grater" at 60mph as would you!

[Curt Hinson]

Thanks to all who replied to this thread. After some time, I finally got my camper back yesterday. According to the RV Repair shop, it was the restricted valve body red block (cost $71.94 + $10.05 freight) and two hours of work for a grand total of $296.36. I had already paid $114.67 because I didn't state the problem correctly. They thought I was saying that the jacks leaked down when detached from the truck, which was not the case, they leaked down when in the traveling position and hooked up to the truck.

When loading the camper up yesterday at the RV Repair, the battery was so weak that I barely got it up high enough to mount it to the hitch. I finally got it loaded, and figured that the truck would charge it a little while driving home. I got it home, backed it into position for loading in front of my garage and opened my large storage compartment to retrieve my 50 Amp cord and was greeted by a byzillion fire ants running all over the inside of my storage compartment. I only had wasp spray, so I hit them with that and they died instantly, although I am still finding some in other places. I connected the 50 Amp cord and left it to sit overnight and hopefully charge the battery.

When I returned from town today (taking care of business), I was gasing up my lawn mower in front of the garage (beside the camper) when I heard a steady beeping from the camper. I opened up the door and my propane gas detector was going crazy. The green light was on and as far as I could determine, no gas appliances were being used. I turned the gas bottles off and it still kept beeping. Knowing that it was hard wired, I checked the battery and it was showing 12 volts while connected. Since this could be from the charging unit, I disconnected the battery and only got 10 volts. I removed the battery and opened the cell covers and the gas from the battery hit me in the face and the cells were still cooking. Long story not so short, I went back to the RV Repair Shop and purchased a new battery for $98.05. I am keeping my fingers, eyes, legs and attitude crossed that things will start to get better.

I apologize for the lengthy post, but had to get it off my chest.

Curt

[stroker06]

Was curious if I need my trucked hooked up to fifth wheel to level nose of trailer.
I have hydraulic jacks, was wanting to level front of trailer to where it was when we set up a few years back. Have read threads where u do and some don't. Slides are out, we are in a spot where we get water run off.

[VinceU]

If you're on shore power that's plenty to operate the hydraulic system. Take it easy, that system will be stiff after all this time.