Front Landing Gear

donanddona · 05-26-2015, 12:33 PM

I tried to lift the rear tires of my TV while attempting to disconnect my 5r at a precarious angel last year. The front landing gear locked up and I have to get the manual crank out and un-stucked it.

For the last several connects and disconnects I have had an increasing chunking noise. Last week I had a strange wiggle to the 5r while sitting in my favorite chair that was just not right. After investigating I saw the left front clevis pin at the landing pad vibrating while the DW was cleaning inside. Not good.

I watch several videos on jacking gear replacement that included replacement of the bevel gears. So last week I hooked up and disassembled the landing gear and did the inspection. I found several pieces and missing teeth on the horizontal bevel gear but the screw jack looked good. The local RV dealer sent (A Lippert gear set) via UPS.

All parts in the package look the same but when I tried to slide the bevel gear on the jack shaft it was to small.

This in the Navy is called a dry run.

After taking pictures, cleaning and reassembling I called the parts department. They didn't understand why but sent an Atwood set FEDEX.

This Atwood set has several parts that are foreign to what is installed and the bevel gears are to small also.

Called the parts department again and although very prompt and courteous their not sure why.

Guys, got any ideas?

donanddona · 05-27-2015, 09:11 PM

Did a little more searching and found that Atwood makes both Heavy duty and a Standard Duty gear package. Haven't received the Venture gear set from the RV dealer. Tomorrows another day.

donanddona · 05-30-2015, 08:37 AM

Serv-mgr. @ RV Dealer called yesterday. Seams Lippert used Stromberg Carlson landing gear on Forest River. Not sure if its the correct size but found one on Amazon. Should be here by Friday. Stay tuned...

Amazon.com: Stromberg Carlson LG146059 Landing Gear: Automotive

Crockett · 05-30-2015, 09:10 AM

Ima tell you a story. I used to replace beveled gears and had bad luck with getting any life out of them. I discovered the worm drive in the leg gets damaged and thats what kills the bevel gears. Once you finally get the right gears you'll probably find hard cranking and short life expectancy. Suggestion...get new jack assemblies. Sorry this advice was not available to you sooner.

OldCoot · 05-30-2015, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crockett

Ima tell you a story. I used to replace beveled gears and had bad luck with getting any life out of them. I discovered the worm drive in the leg gets damaged and thats what kills the bevel gears. Once you finally get the right gears you'll probably find hard cranking and short life expectancy. Suggestion...get new jack assemblies. Sorry this advice was not available to you sooner.

Or just take the jacks apart and find out what is wrong with the worm drive and fix it. Took a brand new set apart because they would bind at several spots on both jacks and found burrs on the threads and the thread dia slightly oversize. Cleaned the burrs off in a lathe with a file and everything worked very smoothly. The gears will last if the worm drive is functioning properly.

Crockett · 05-30-2015, 12:41 PM

Hehe...sounds like the good old rvs forum where you get chastised for suggesting a new furnace motor just because its 38 years old when you can just boil the oilite bushings in oil and sand the commutator. I suggest that because most OEM landing legs are one step too light and they are not that pricey to do as a set. I found that the bad spot burrs up the nut and then the nut works the rest of the shaft. In the repair industry, I cant gamble ona repair like that. Funny...Im usually getting flack for suggesting a repair instead of replacement. I hope the OP keeps us informed hows this works out for him. With the time and effort invested, I hope Im wrong on this one...

OldCoot · 05-30-2015, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crockett

Hehe...sounds like the good old rvs forum where you get chastised for suggesting a new furnace motor just because its 38 years old when you can just boil the oilite bushings in oil and sand the commutator. I suggest that because most OEM landing legs are one step too light and they are not that pricey to do as a set. I found that the bad spot burrs up the nut and then the nut works the rest of the shaft. In the repair industry, I cant gamble ona repair like that. Funny...Im usually getting flack for suggesting a repair instead of replacement. I hope the OP keeps us informed hows this works out for him. With the time and effort invested, I hope Im wrong on this one...

FYI, these were brand new replacement jacks I was referring to, not the original factory jacks and they were not cheap, over $400.

donanddona · 06-07-2015, 12:30 PM

Any level two tech out there? I have grown accustomed to asking for a level two tech on the phone these days, I guess it's time for the forum. This is the second time I disassembling and the third set of replacement gears that, once again do not fit. I took several measurements this time and lots of pictures. It really is getting easier to do.

Out of all the pictures I took the one that needs careful attention is # 3. It shows how the retaining pin for the horizontal gear (Bottom Gear) is kept in place. It is a thin spring clip. Of all the of gears received to date none has this type of retainer. Second is picture # 4, it shows the vertical bevel gear's drive shaft inserted in both the horizontal gear (Sloppy), (gear has a 5/8" I.D./shaft is 1/2") and of course the shaft fits vertical gear. All three sets of replacement gears have the same 1/2" I.D. So I'm asking for the expertise of the forum. Special note; In my research, Atwood list's two sets of replacement gears. The one I received were the "HD". I have a Flagstaff Super Lite. Would it qualify as an "HD" ? Any Atwood experts out there?

OldCoot · 06-07-2015, 02:09 PM

Once you acquire the right gears, I very strongly suggest you remove the main vertical screw in the jack and the nut and file and de-burr both of them to the point you can spin the nut without it hanging up anywhere in the entire travel. You can use a reversible drill to turn the bolt while you hold the nut in a vise. It may be a little time consuming with a knife/fine tooth bastard file, but it will save you headaches down the road. Had to do it on a brand new set of jacks that had tight spots when running them up and down. They should not have any tight spots anywhere on the entire travel.

donanddona · 06-07-2015, 04:55 PM

Thanks for the insight. I will put it on the next "To Do" tear-down.

Crockett · 06-08-2015, 03:54 PM

not familiar with the retaining clip. usually the pin is an interference fit. I would go to FR with a vin to get the jack make. looks like atwood HD but the clip thing baffles me. both jacks were stressed when the attempted lift of the tow vehicle was made. just because the nut will freetravel on the shaft doesnt mean it will do the same during a lift while loaded.

OldCoot · 06-08-2015, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crockett

...just because the nut will freetravel on the shaft doesnt mean it will do the same during a lift while loaded.

If it won't free travel without a load, it will sure be put under extra load on the mechanism (powder metal gears) with a load on it and binding/burred threads!

Crockett · 06-08-2015, 05:15 PM

what I was saying...even if the nut free travels unloaded, under load, deformities may still exist that cause the worm/nut to deform again to previous or worse state. triangular files may not fix this...

OldCoot · 06-08-2015, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crockett

what I was saying...even if the nut free travels unloaded, under load, deformities may still exist that cause the worm/nut to deform again to previous or worse state. triangular files and 4.0 glasses may not fix this...

The chances of deformities being present if the nut travels free are a lot less possible than if you do nothing as you suggest. I said a knife file or a fine tooth bastard file, no mention of a triangle file.

asquared · 06-08-2015, 09:10 PM

Ok gentleman, you have both made your points. Please go back to being civil. Do not take every opportunity to express your disagreement, incite argument, insult each other, or fan flames. Voice your opinion respectfully and then let it go. I have done a clean up on this thread. The mods are going to watch this, please don't make us have to clean it up again. Thanks.

**wmtire** · 06-08-2015, 09:12 PM

Let's take a breather and remember that we're here as a team to help our fellow travelers.

and above all else:

donanddona · 06-09-2015, 08:35 AM

One of my favorite saying is "I know a guy that knows a guy", usually either smarter then me or able to assist. So, were headed to the Quad City area, Illinois, area (Hampton/Illiniwek Forest preserve) this week. Possible manufactures are now Bull Dog or Pacific Rim. Outside chance are Holland and Ultra Fab (will need more research here). Venture/Stromberg Carlson and Atwood are out for now. Two sets of Venture/Stromberg Carlson (no good), Atwood's repair manual shows only one replacement kit for all four types of their landing gear. If doable I will just replace the gears by themselves. All spacers, bushings, pins, and shaft appear to be in good shape. I'll try not to do the vertical press to the TV rear axel again. Stay thirsty my friends.

Crockett · 06-09-2015, 12:34 PM

thanks for the update...let us know how things work out..

donanddona · 07-02-2015, 11:16 AM

Job completed. Of course after talking to a guy that's knows a guy I didn't find new gears (of course). Lippert supply department emailed me back finally (complete leg required). I now believe that a once used subcontractor that supplied to Lippert for a short time is no longer available. Any hoot, I ordered a complete lead leg from my favorite RV dealer (you know that Cheyenne Camping Center in Iowa) ships without payment?), can't say there are many around anymore. The replacement was really easy (2 of 5 stars) and it sounds great. One difference is the Transmission collet spacer is retained differently. A screw is used instead nut & bolt. I think it will do ok. At least I don't have to listen to the clunk, clunk, clunk every operation (3 teeth together missing now). The last picture shows the manual operation shaft doesn't seam to align with hole? Hope I won't have to use it. "Stay Thirsty My Friends"

Crockett · 07-02-2015, 12:11 PM

silly question...did you try rotating the gear reduction box 90 degrees to get alignment?? Im glad you went new but I know its a hassle. At least you got a better chance of closure with this problem and hopefully a rest before the next one

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