Gas in a diesel tank

[Todouble]

Yeah these newer EPA compliant diesels don't do good with gas in the tank. They can trash your fuel supply system and cause some costly damage. I would look over on fte forum under the 6.4 tab. You will get a lot of advice and similar post you can view. Good luck

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Now that is a bummer for sure. I don't know about these new engines with all that EPA crap and all these other things that they make the Manufacturers do to these engines. But I remember the old ones. Had a diesel I drove back in the 60's in the army those would run on anything. Now a days they pass all these clean air acts and stuff and it just cost high dollars to fix anything on them. when I have to change the filters at every other oil change they charge me like $150.00 dollars to do it. It's only a pleated filter nothing special that I know of. And Miller since you work on these things what do you recommend for filter changes (fuel) I always ask to see them and they always look new to me. Are they ripping me off at the dealership or is that the correct way. I always add an additive when I fill up do I even need to do that? and dose it help, I guess it is for my injectors to keep them clean.

I would and do use, only oem. Ive heard gm filters are about $40-50, but I get them in the $20-30 range. On the 6.0 like yours there are 2 fuel filters. One under the hood and one under the drivers seat floorboard. And I want to say our cost was like $50-90 for the pair, don't remember exactly.
Expensive....yes, but wix filters are terrible and diesel fuel systems are not one area to skimp on. I over do it on mine and replace fuel and tranny filter (spin on) every 5-6k, which is about once every 10-12months on my truck.

On additives, we are told that you don't need them on newer diesels....but I use white bottle power service. Tried lucas about a month ago and didn't like it.


MillerTime- Future Sabre Handler!!

[Crusadernoob]

I also am a GM certified tech, I won't speak on behalf of GM, Ford, or Dodge, or VW, but I WILL tell you that with MANY new HPFP's (high pressure fuel pump) they can not take the slightest amount of non lubricating fuel run through them, the "old" ones, say 6-7 years ago, NO problems, a simple drain and fill, new filter and go. Now a days, it's a crap shoot, some get away with a drain and fill, and MOST will get a new HPFP, injectors, lines, filters, DROP, the tank and clean them, then they will run fine. My advice to anyone running a newer diesel is investigate the background of the HPFP currently on your vehicle! Know what HPFP you have and treat it accordingly, personally, I run a 2006 duramax, I and many others believe this is the best duramax on the market, it CAN handle the gas with just a simple drain and fill, my other diesel is a 2012 Jetta, it will grenade the whole fuel system if ANY contaminates get run through it, as many know $7-$8K later, and all new parts it's good to go. With that being said, I personally like to fuel at quick trip, 2 reason's, all new stations mean new tanks, and they currently have up to 5% bio blended, good lubricity. My duramax I don't use an additive, my jetta, faithfully EVERY tank, it's not worth the risk. Just my .02 worth, good luck to all with diesels and like I stated earlier, if you have contaminated a system of a newer diesel I would call your insurance company, they may surprise you. Just so everyone understands, back when they went to ULSD, simply put, they took out MOST of the lubricating components out of the diesel fuel, the US's standards for fuel, well, sucks!

For these reasons, just like my home, my 5er, my vehicles, and my daughters, no one "borrows" them!

I am the only one that will ever fuel my diesels.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Crusadernoob

I also am a GM certified tech, I won't speak on behalf of GM, Ford, or Dodge, or VW, but I WILL tell you that with MANY new HPFP's (high pressure fuel pump) they can not take the slightest amount of non lubricating fuel run through them, the "old" ones, say 6-7 years ago, NO problems, a simple drain and fill, new filter and go. Now a days, it's a crap shoot, some get away with a drain and fill, and MOST will get a new HPFP, injectors, lines, filters, DROP, the tank and clean them, then they will run fine. My advice to anyone running a newer diesel is investigate the background of the HPFP currently on your vehicle! Know what HPFP you have and treat it accordingly, personally, I run a 2006 duramax, I and many others believe this is the best duramax on the market, it CAN handle the gas with just a simple drain and fill, my other diesel is a 2012 Jetta, it will grenade the whole fuel system if ANY contaminates get run through it, as many know $7-$8K later, and all new parts it's good to go. With that being said, I personally like to fuel at quick trip, 2 reason's, all new stations mean new tanks, and they currently have up to 5% bio blended, good lubricity. My duramax I don't use an additive, my jetta, faithfully EVERY tank, it's not worth the risk. Just my .02 worth, good luck to all with diesels and like I stated earlier, if you have contaminated a system of a newer diesel I would call your insurance company, they may surprise you. Just so everyone understands, back when they went to ULSD, simply put, they took out MOST of the lubricating components out of the diesel fuel, the US's standards for fuel, well, sucks!

For these reasons, just like my home, my 5er, my vehicles, and my daughters, no one "borrows" them!

I am the only one that will ever fuel my diesels.

Originally Posted by sor126

Truck was drove about 10 miles,, it is at the dealer now,, 1/4 tank of diesel and the full tank of gas

Any idea how much you can cut ULSD before it stops lubing?

[RKR]

Not to jack the thread but since there seems to be several techs chiming in I have a question that I've never seen a consistent answer on.
I currently own an '11 2500 HD D/A. I'm going to pick up a '15 dually this year and was wondering if the Duramax requires or if it's best to break it before towing the 5er. I've been told it's not necessary and I've been told to put about 1K on it before towing. What your thoughts ?
This will be the last pickup for a very long time and I want to make it last.

[Pipeman]

A couple of years ago, while in w campground, there was a commotion in the lot next door during the night. In the morning saw a 5er and a ford TV. Later on I talked to tne new guy and he told me he was towed and then backed into the lot. He had filled up his diesel with gas because the hoses weren't labelled right and also filled up his 50 gallon aux. tank. His occupation was as a mechanic. So he got some containers and I loaned him a 5 gallon container and he drained his fuel tank. He then pulled the filter/filters and drained his fuel lines. He went and got some diesel fuel, put it in his main tank, got new filters, primed them up and then started the truck. He said it would run rough for a bit and then smooth out, which it did. He left for British Columbia the next day. I have no idea as to what happened or if anything happened after that.

[Pipeman]

Originally Posted by RKR

Not to jack the thread but since there seems to be several techs chiming in I have a question that I've never seen a consistent answer on.
I currently own an '11 2500 HD D/A. I'm going to pick up a '15 dually this year and was wondering if the Duramax requires or if it's best to break it before towing the 5er. I've been told it's not necessary and I've been told to put about 1K on it before towing. What your thoughts ?
This will be the last pickup for a very long time and I want to make it last.

If it were me I'd be doing the breaking in driving without and then with the trailer. With my D/A 2011 it was 500 miles without and then 5oo miles with the 5er. That way, driving on a highway at 50 mph I got to know the way the truck handled, without and then with the 5er. Besides it was a way to see the country side without being on a go fast highway.

[Crusadernoob]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Any idea how much you can cut ULSD before it stops lubing?

I personally have had MANY duramax's brought to me full of gas, like I said before, you need to know which HPFP you are dealing with, as far as the new one's, if I owned one and let's say I had 1/4 tank of fuel and realized that I messed up and was currently at the pump and I pumped even 2 gallons of gas into it I would NOT run the engine! I also would not just top off with diesel and hope for the best! I would push the truck aside and start the tank draining process. If you think that would be a headache just imagine the situation of destroying your fuel system of let's say $8K. And days down in the shop, away on the dream vacation your wife always wanted and you spent years saving for it.

[Crusadernoob]

Originally Posted by RKR

Not to jack the thread but since there seems to be several techs chiming in I have a question that I've never seen a consistent answer on.
I currently own an '11 2500 HD D/A. I'm going to pick up a '15 dually this year and was wondering if the Duramax requires or if it's best to break it before towing the 5er. I've been told it's not necessary and I've been told to put about 1K on it before towing. What your thoughts ?
This will be the last pickup for a very long time and I want to make it last.

I would suggest you read into the owners manual, GM doesn't want this to be the last truck you own, but they do want it to last as long as you want it.

Personally, the best thing for any engine is to run it, meaning I would not be afraid to tow with it, just don't go out with any new vehicle and set the cruise control, let it go down the interstate at 2,000 rpm steady for 3 hours. Work it, changing the load and rpm's a lot and it will last a LONG time. Good luck!

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by RKR

Not to jack the thread but since there seems to be several techs chiming in I have a question that I've never seen a consistent answer on.
I currently own an '11 2500 HD D/A. I'm going to pick up a '15 dually this year and was wondering if the Duramax requires or if it's best to break it before towing the 5er. I've been told it's not necessary and I've been told to put about 1K on it before towing. What your thoughts ?
This will be the last pickup for a very long time and I want to make it last.

I always defer to what the manufacturer says. Look in the owners manual.
I would probably not tow for about 500- 1000 miles if it was me, just cause. On the other hand, how many miles get put on semis before they tow?....a couple, maybe. You dont see these engines having to "seat the rings" like the old tractors use too, where you put a bottom plow on and take them to a field and work the fire out of it to seat it.

If manual states 500 miles, just to be safe do it! Just my opinion

MillerTime- Future Sabre Handler!!

[RKR]

Thanks guys. These answers are pretty consistent.
Happy camping and I hope the OP gets his issue resolved without spending too much money.

[slide5r4fun]

Originally Posted by Pipeman

If it were me I'd be doing the breaking in driving without and then with the trailer. With my D/A 2011 it was 500 miles without and then 5oo miles with the 5er. That way, driving on a highway at 50 mph I got to know the way the truck handled, without and then with the 5er. Besides it was a way to see the country side without being on a go fast highway.

That's how we broke in our 2006 Dodge Cummins. Only it was 1000 miles before towing, then 500 miles towing at a max speed of 50 mph.

[ironj]

Bil let his daughter's bf use truck to move her...he put gas in tank....made it bout 15 miles....ins covered it, but his premium went sky high....2011 gmc

These new bosch pumps are divas...they will gall if u sneeze on em...I always run 5% BIO and/or additive in every tank...poor lube from ulsd is the main concern..well..besides putting contaminates in on your own...lol

Cousins fiancee put 3 gal of def in tank...idled it for 10 min....fuel system shot....his business wrote it off, I got an extra tailgate and his black rear bumper :-) (2012 f350)

sent from fat fingers via a space dish thing with no regard to grammer.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by MillerTime

Did I miss something? I haven't heard anything about $2k.
And yes nowdays 10 miles is enough to trash a fuel system in newer diesels. Todays diesels compared to the earlier 2000's diesels have changed GREATLY. Just look at a scan tool at available options. There is an ecm for everything, and stricter tolerances and specs on everything.
Guess I need to say "current" dealer tech

Still wishing op the best!

MillerTime- Future Sabre Handler!!

While it's been a minute since I did it professionally, I stay on top of the tech through contacts at GM.

Current tech or not, I'll give anyone a run for their money. I stand by my statement. Flush it and try it, or throw money at it. Me? I'll try it.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by RKR

Not to jack the thread but since there seems to be several techs chiming in I have a question that I've never seen a consistent answer on.
I currently own an '11 2500 HD D/A. I'm going to pick up a '15 dually this year and was wondering if the Duramax requires or if it's best to break it before towing the 5er. I've been told it's not necessary and I've been told to put about 1K on it before towing. What your thoughts ?
This will be the last pickup for a very long time and I want to make it last.

Very much worth it to look on the manual, little known fact, GM required a break in before towing on..........differentials. Yes, some 1500 chassis trucks, Suburbans and Tahoes had a break in period then change to synthetic before towing. I learned that when a family came into town with a brand new Suburban, that they used to tow their brand new TT to the locan NASCAR race. 2,200 miles on the vehicle, rear diff bearings shot. I built it, filled it with syn, never heard from them again.

So, you never know. I'd check the OM.

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by RKR

Not to jack the thread but since there seems to be several techs chiming in I have a question that I've never seen a consistent answer on.
I currently own an '11 2500 HD D/A. I'm going to pick up a '15 dually this year and was wondering if the Duramax requires or if it's best to break it before towing the 5er. I've been told it's not necessary and I've been told to put about 1K on it before towing. What your thoughts ?
This will be the last pickup for a very long time and I want to make it last.

Heres what my manual says. Not new, but doubt that gms position has changed. And I dont know anyone that drives one at 55mph.


MillerTime- Future Sabre Handler!!

[Mtelkman]

I have an '01 7.3l F250 diesel and I spray painted my fuel cap bright green with DIESEL stenciled across the face. I always try to be the only one to fill up my truck but often in Oregon they require you to allow the fuel island attendant to do it for you. I was in Florence, OR talking with one of these attendants a few years ago and he told me so far that summer the kids who worked there had filled 2 diesel trucks with gasoline.

[Brother Les]

Question for you knowledgeable techs that say that these newer smokers can not take a little gasoline. Can they run anything else but clean green diesel or does the least little contaminant will lock them up to be no more than a yard ornament? I toss all kinds of liquids down the tank and not worry at all about it. My Brother-in-Law has a Ford F-250 2010 and I get way better mileage than he does..... When he said that he had to add muffler oil to his truck.... I thought that he was smoking and drinking too much again...

[RKR]

Originally Posted by MillerTime

Heres what my manual says. Not new, but doubt that gms position has changed. And I dont know anyone that drives one at 55mph.


MillerTime- Future Sabre Handler!!

Thanks. I better buy it in the off season then. Too much temptation to hook it and go.

[ironj]

Well they will burn 20% biodiesel ?...but no you cant pour motor oil in em anymore...thats the trade off for the emissions junk, but also why they put out 400+ hp straight off the lot.....mainly it has to do with the high pressure pump and the injector setup. ....and I still laugh at people who tell me that def is for the regen or makes mileage worse...speaking of mpg, if you delete the emissions stuff on a newer one (egr/def/dpf) you can get a hefty kick in mpg...but heck ill take 21mpg hwy and no diesel clack or smoke any day....to each their own...if my dpf fails or clogs I aint putting another on tho. ..just saying...lol

sent from fat fingers via a space dish thing with no regard to grammer.