Before we poured our pad, I ran a 4" sewer line under the pad with a 4" riser located within a foot or so of the MH drain cap. Makes for an easy tank rinse when we get home. The pad is located along the side wall of the attached garage. I also have a cable to our direct tv, water line, and electrical.
I will add, the MH has been used as a guest house for visitors from out of town.
How about option 5? Make it as big as you can aford! Remember, walk around room when everything is open. That means trailer width plus at least 3 feet on all sides.
Mine's no new blacktop. With the slides open, you still want a solid footing all around so you can put up a ladder and do any servicing of the slides, seals and normal washing and waxing without taking a dive off the ladder
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2016 Flagstaff 27VRL Emerald
14K Equalizer
2020 Silverado 2500HD CC 4X4 6.6L gas 3.73
One thing to do, is check with your ready mix company. There will be a minimum yard requirement. Ours is 4. Also know that concrete is going to crack. Controlling the cracks is key. Wire mesh and fiber.
What ever option fits your needs but I have to agree with rp53 add the 30amp shore power. Oh and by the way no matter if you put rebar or 4x4 wire the concrete WILL crack somewhere that is why you cut it or put in relief joints so it cracks where you want it hopefully.
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2014 Rockwood 8289
2013 Toyota Tundra
I like the idea of way longer than you need and I would also go wider than you need. Give yourself a concrete area around your camper to fit a ladder to make washing the RV safer. 3' on each side of the camper would be nice. Should also help keep the camper cleaner during a rain storm. No dirt should splash up onto your camper.
I poured a camper pad this summer. 16 wide by 28 attached to my garage. 4" thick with footings. If the camper goes away in the future I can use the pad to extend the garage. Also I put in a 50 amp power service.
Next year will extend pad another 20 feet for the pickup.
Its been a great investment! High and dry for maintenance, washing etc.