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Old 06-16-2013, 11:37 PM   #11
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Hey Herk, do I need to remove the wheel to lube from the zerk and will the grease come out the front by the zerk or out the back toward axle?
No, in fact leaving it on will help you spin the wheel. While not "required," it is an accepted technique to jack each tire till you can spin it and slow pump the grease while it is spinning. The idea is the new grease will fill the rollers better.

As to the grease coming out, it had better come out the front around the axle nut. That is how the system works. See the graphic. Messy I know, but so is packing the bearings.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:39 AM   #12
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Perfect, thanks Herk. I am always afraid of getting grease where it shouldn't be. I typically have the bearings repacked every 2 yrs because I typically have low mileage.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:03 AM   #13
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Perfect, thanks Herk. I am always afraid of getting grease where it shouldn't be. I typically have the bearings repacked every 2 yrs because I typically have low mileage.
Much past that and it will certainly need a repack. The grease used in the EZ/Ultra-Lube systems tend to solidify over time if not regularly pushed out.

Once it cakes up it is almost impossible to push through the bearings. Most stories of blown rear seals are folks trying to use the system LONG after the bearings need to be cleaned and inspected.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:29 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by pwrstroke2012 View Post
Hey Herk, do I need to remove the wheel to lube from the zerk and will the grease come out the front by the zerk or out the back toward axle?
Some of the newer models are coming with a center cap held on by the wheel. Mine is one of those so the wheel needs to come off to access the zerk. If you're not 100% sure I'd remove the first tire to check before attacking it with a mallet & screw driver.

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Old 06-18-2013, 01:29 PM   #15
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Some of the newer models are coming with a center cap held on by the wheel. Mine is one of those so the wheel needs to come off to access the zerk. If you're not 100% sure I'd remove the first tire to check before attacking it with a mallet & screw driver.

MTB
Picture please. Mine uses the center rubber insert to access the Zerk.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #16
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That's what we have. Like the one you jut posted
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #17
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Picture please. Mine uses the center rubber insert to access the Zerk.
Mine uses the center rubber insert as well...just need to remove the wheel & center hub cap to access it.

In the attached pic the hub cap is everything within the lugnuts and is held on by a lip against the back of the wheel.

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Old 06-18-2013, 02:11 PM   #18
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Wow, they look cool.

What a PITA to work on though...
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #19
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Picture please. Mine uses the center rubber insert to access the Zerk.
First off, thanks Herk for the info! A couple questions though before a run out and get some grease. How much does this usually take to get to new grease and how are you getting the old grease out? I assume you are just pulling it out with your finger as its filled with new grease.
Thanks again!
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:52 PM   #20
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First off, thanks Herk for the info! A couple questions though before a run out and get some grease. How much does this usually take to get to new grease and how are you getting the old grease out? I assume you are just pulling it out with your finger as its filled with new grease.
Thanks again!
DO NOT use your finger! That hub is sharp! (Don't ask how I know)

How much grease is harder to answer. It depends on whether the hub is full now, or they just hand packed the bearings and left the hub empty. (My case)

If empty, it may take several full pumps of a large tube manual grease gun to even get any motion at all. (In fact you may even worry it is going right into the drum!) But after a bit of slow pumping you will see motion at the bearing and the packed stiff grease (typically gray icky color) will start to ooze out. keep going until you see the red (if you use red) new grease come out. Now your hub and bearings are filled.

If they are already filled and you are just flushing the bearings, only a pump or two is needed to completely push the outer bearing dirty grease outside; and you can stop. (The inner bearing grease will be pushed into the hub).

Since you will continue to do this several times, there will eventually come a time when that dirty inner bearing grease will contact the outer bearing when you pump, so it will take a long while to push all the dirty grease out and see new red grease.
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