Grease axle bearing through nipple

[tntrac]

I got some grease and tried adding it through the nipple. I had done this with numerous boat trailers. With Buddy bearing and other similar, the indicator pushes out to let you know grease has been filled.

The ones I worked on today, it seems like it is fixed. Is this common? There is a rubber cover that goes over the hole .

I ended up squeezing about 5 times (didn't want to break the seal). This is a 2006 Thor Summit 22RB

[cardinal4fun]

I beleive the problem with over greaseing comes from the rear seal. It seems that 2 pumps of grease is standard so as to not break the rear seal, which then allows the grease to effect the brakes. If you read posts on the subject you will find talk about using only a hand pump grease gun, so you do not put to much pressure on the rear seal.

Yes the front is a fixed area. The rubber cover is more for keeping dirt out.

[tntrac]

Originally Posted by cardinal4fun

I beleive the problem with over greaseing comes from the rear seal. It seems that 2 pumps of grease is standard so as to not break the rear seal, which then allows the grease to effect the brakes. If you read posts on the subject you will find talk about using only a hand pump grease gun, so you do not put to much pressure on the rear seal.

Yes the front is a fixed area. The rubber cover is more for keeping dirt out.

Thank you. I used the hand pump.

[MtnGuy]

It takes a lot of grease to fill up the bearing area. From the zerk, it goes to the back bearing, the hub, and then the front bearing before it starts coming out the front.

Recently when I took my trailer in for a broken brake assembly flange, he checked all of my brakes....they didn't seem to be performing very well recently. They replaced the entire brake assembly on the wheel with the broken flange. The brake shoes had gotten wet with grease on that one. All of the other 3 magnets had grease on them. He cleaned them, and installed new rear grease seals.

So, I asked the question about using the easy-lube hubs, just knowing for sure that he was going to admonish me for doing something that stupid. Surprise......he said that using the easy-lube hubs should not "blow-out" the rear seal. When using a hand pump, there is very little pressure on the seal. The grease flows freely through the rear bearing, through the hub, and out the front bearing. Thinking more on that, pushing the old grease out through all of that might cause a little pressure, but shouldn't be enough to blow the seal.

So, I asked why my seals were leaking. He said they might have been dry at 1 point, or they just wore out from age, use, or non use.......they just need to be replaced ever so often. I only have about 8000 miles on my trailer, so I can't believe the use thing would be a factor. But, the trailer sat in the dealer's lot for over a year before I bought it. I am thinking that was maybe what caused my seals to leak prematurely.

[MtnGuy]

tntrac, what is the green thing at the top of your hub ??

[Twisty]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

tntrac, what is the green thing at the top of your hub ??

That is the bent end of the cotter pin.

I'll add that I roll/turn the wheel slowly when I grease the bearings.

[tntrac]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

It takes a lot of grease to fill up the bearing area. From the zerk, it goes to the back bearing, the hub, and then the front bearing before it starts coming out the front.

Recently when I took my trailer in for a broken brake assembly flange, he checked all of my brakes....they didn't seem to be performing very well recently. They replaced the entire brake assembly on the wheel with the broken flange. The brake shoes had gotten wet with grease on that one. All of the other 3 magnets had grease on them. He cleaned them, and installed new rear grease seals.

So, I asked the question about using the easy-lube hubs, just knowing for sure that he was going to admonish me for doing something that stupid. Surprise......he said that using the easy-lube hubs should not "blow-out" the rear seal. When using a hand pump, there is very little pressure on the seal. The grease flows freely through the rear bearing, through the hub, and out the front bearing. Thinking more on that, pushing the old grease out through all of that might cause a little pressure, but shouldn't be enough to blow the seal.

So, I asked why my seals were leaking. He said they might have been dry at 1 point, or they just wore out from age, use, or non use.......they just need to be replaced ever so often. I only have about 8000 miles on my trailer, so I can't believe the use thing would be a factor. But, the trailer sat in the dealer's lot for over a year before I bought it. I am thinking that was maybe what caused my seals to leak prematurely.

I never thought about the green stuff. Anyways, I hope i didn't break the seal. Come to think about it, I squeezed about 10 times since there wasn't any indicator like the buddy bearing but noticed the front nipple squirted out some grease (thats when I stopped)

I used the grease gun from Walmart. I will test it later when I get home to see how much grease it pumps out per many squeeze(s). I am kicking myself in the head since I have used the device many times with boat trailers with indicators.

Twisty, is correct. It is a pin.

[MtnGuy]

I end up pumping 20 times or so per wheel to get fresh grease out of the front of my hubs.

Then again, my seals have leaked, so I am not sure exactly what to think.

I can see the cotter pin now. My wheels don't have a cotter pin....they have a locking tab. Not sure I trust that thing.

[SaskCampers]

AFter the mess inside my axles this summer I will never use the easy lubes again. I think they have a place on boat trailers but not on RV's. I had grease that had burnt itself to the axles that took me alot of elbow grease to remove and the only reasonable thing my mechanic and I could figure is the cavity on a hub is not meant to be filled with grease, it allows the heat to dissipate out to the hub and when that cavity is full of grease it holds the heat against the axle. This is not just our opinion but I have found numerous other professionals on the internet with the same opinion. Not only that there is really no way to explain why there was grease on all 4 magnets and all the pads not just the one that the rear seal had gone bad on. I repacked my bearings by hand the old fashioned way and I will see what they look like next spring as I plan to pull all the China bearings and install good Timkin or equalivent bearings and races. BTW all I use for grease is Synthetic wheel bearing grease the same as I put in my 94 Explorer front bearings.

[Timex]

A few months ago I called my dealer and talked with the service manager and talked with him about the bearing zerk fitting. To give you a short story here, he said he loves the zerk fitting! It brings him all kinds of repair work. What he meant was, most people put too much grease in blowing the rear seals throwing grease onto the brakes and basically making them inoperatable. Hence a repair job costing several C note$!

I'm going to get 1 more trip in next month and then repack the bearings the old way. It's not much fun but it sure beats messing up your brakes and wheel cylinders. Those zerk fittings are a pretty sales point, but as I was told by the service manager, pretty is as pretty does!

[Twisty]

I'll add this too - and again -
It is extremely important to roll the wheel as you pump the grease in!!
Also, continue to roll the wheel after you are done pumping in the grease. It relieves any pressure from the seal and the grease will get pushed out the front. Wipe all excess from the outer bearing.
I cut a small - 1/4" - slit in the rubber cap to allow for air expansion.
I've not had any seal problems with my method.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by Twisty

It is extremely important to roll the wheel as you pump the grease in!!
Also, continue to roll the wheel after you are done pumping in the grease. It relieves any pressure from the seal and the grease will get pushed out the front. Wipe all excess from the outer bearing.

I spin the wheel during, but will start doing it after also....good idea.

Originally Posted by Twisty

I cut a small - 1/4" - slit in the rubber cap to allow for air expansion.

Another excellent idea. My rubber caps will sometimes bow out when the bearings get warm.