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Old 03-22-2016, 11:49 AM   #11
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Need to pull the drums and inspect. Any grease on linings is very bad. Thoroughly check. Good time for bearing inspection as wel. Finish with a precise brake adjust Everything has to work together.

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Old 03-22-2016, 01:09 PM   #12
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Location: West Michigan
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Could be a bad ground to the TV. The 0 - 12 volts dc from the truck with a bad ground will limit the current flow though the magnets in the brakes. This coused by the resistance at the bad ground wire from TT or TV.

Hope this helps Tim

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Old 03-22-2016, 01:48 PM   #13
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Might check the controller output voltage. I had the opposite issue, touch the break pedal and lock 'em up. My truck, a '13 F150, did not come with a controller, bought one at a U-Haul in NJ a year and a half ago. The trouble started at the end of our second trip south, this Jan. I ended up at a U-Haul dealer that worked on controllers in Brandon, Fl. Took the tech about five minutes to identify the problem, fifteen to replace it.
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:17 PM   #14
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Location: New Jersey
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Make sure if wheels where greased that they where not over done, grease will run into drums. Need to pull the wheels off and check inside the drums
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:47 PM   #15
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Location: Clifton Forge, Virginia
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You have been given good advise from all, I haven't seen this mentioned so I'll give you one more to think about. If your Prodigy brake controller is adjusted propery, then you should get maximum voltage out-put reading on your controller when you manually apply your brakes, if not, you are proberly looking at a defective brake switch on the truck even though you still have brake lights. Your brake switch has multi-funtions, your Prodigy goes thru this switch and if not working properly, you may not be getting full voltage to your brakes or none at all. This is a easy do-your-self project, about a 20 min. job to replace. Good Luck.
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:24 PM   #16
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Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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The many good recommendations you’ve received on what to check shows there are many possible causes. It looks like you have received a lot of good advice. One thing missing is the possibility that the brake shoes on your trailer are glazed and unable to grab the brake drum adequately. I received my trailer with glazed brake shoes and they required burnishing before they would work properly.

You can check the Internet for RV brake-burnishing procedures. Below is a clip from the Dexter Axle-Operations Manual that worked well for me:

‘…brakes should be burnished-in by applying the brakes 20-30 times with approximately a 20 m.p.h. decrease in speed, e.g., 40 m.p.h. to 20 m.p.h. Allow ample time for brakes to cool between applications. This allows the brake shoes and magnets to slightly “wear-in” to the drum surface.’

During the procedure, only apply the trailer brakes, not with your tow vehicle brake pedal but via your brake controller.

I recall having this problem many years ago on an auto with drum brakes and I had to sand the brake shoes by hand with coarse sandpaper to remove the glaze. However, shops that turned brake drums would also burnish the shoes to fit the curve of the brake drums.
2015 Wildcat 282 RKX
2011 F350 Lariat, 6.7 L. Diesel, 8 ft., SRW, Reese R20
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:31 PM   #17
PT Crew Member - 10/2013
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Hi a all,
I wanted to close out on this thread. We contacted AAA, who recommended a brake repair shop. They found that Les Schwab got the back brakes working, but the front brakes were not. The repair shop pulled down part of the underbelly and found more broken wires. Our brakes are now 100 percent and and we are working with our rv service center to get reimbursed for the expense since they did a full check and lub job right before we left (yes, they have lost our business).
PT Crew Member since October, 2013
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:07 PM   #18
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 26
I played with the gain turning it up not knowing what I was doing and for a few hundred miles the trailer was doing most of the braking. I stopped once wondering what was going on and smelt burning. Then the last stop, smoke came from the brakes. I talked with a mechanic at the next state park and he asked if I had made any changes and I confessed I had played with the gain knob. That was my problem. Where would you take an RPOD 17ft travel trailer in to get my trailer brakes checked? I figure I might have hurt them.

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brakes, trailer

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