Help! Wheels wiggle while bolted to axle

[babock]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Just what I call em.. it's like saying "give me a Kleenex". They are pretty typical.

Bearing buddies are just a spring loaded device that replaces the grease cap. It just pressurizes the hub. It doesn't put grease through a hole at the inner end of the spindle. OP does not have one of these.

[tande]

Originally Posted by babock

These are not bearing buddies. Just the typical EZ-Lube axles found on most TTs these days.


And there is grease on the backing plate because someone used the EZ Lube "feature". Blown rear seal for sure.

Well......these may NOT be the "Bearing/Buddy" brand.......but it is obvious from the O.P. pictures that they are in fact a spring loaded piston greasing cap......

[007matman]

Originally Posted by babock

Bearing buddies are just a spring loaded device that replaces the grease cap. It just pressurizes the hub. It doesn't put grease through a hole at the inner end of the spindle. OP does not have one of these.

Hmm OP had a zerk in the middle..

Looks a lot like these.

Bearing Buddy Stainless Steel Bearing Protectors (1.980" Diameter) With Bras - Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D52C9BW..._pOV3CbP1B492V

Just sayin'

[tomkatb]

It could be the castle nut was not tightened properly.

Doing that causes the inner bearing races to turn on the axle which can damage the axle.

You need to take it apart to look.

Look at all four. Bearings should be repacked every few years.

[Bluepill]

Bad bearing:

https://youtu.be/HlocBgVluQg

Bearing is noisy and continues to spin by itself.

[babock]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Hmm OP had a zerk in the middle..

Looks a lot like these.

Bearing Buddy Stainless Steel Bearing Protectors (1.980" Diameter) With Bras - Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D52C9BW..._pOV3CbP1B492V

Just sayin'

It's not the same thing. Just clarifying for the OP and other people reading.


I own boat trailers with the Bearing Buddy and trailers with the EZ lube.



You can see in the first picture he posted it has the rubber plug you remove to access the the zerk fitting on the EZ lube axle.

[babock]

Originally Posted by tande

Well......these may NOT be the "Bearing/Buddy" brand.......but it is obvious from the O.P. pictures that they are in fact a spring loaded piston greasing cap......

Take a look at the first picture. It has the EZ lube rubber plug in the cap.







Here they are on Amazon...exact same brand of covers too!

https://smile.amazon.com/ToughGrade-...s%2C228&sr=8-3

[babock]

Originally Posted by onecrazyfoo4u

Thanks for the replies everyone. I can do a bearing job myself, just need to find a local place that carries them. How do I know what size I'll need? Do I need to pull one out and take it in? Do I need to buy bearing buddies brand to keep the zerks then? Which brand of bearing is best? Thanks!

You may have a tag still on your axle which will tell you the brand and model. If not, it's easy to pull the hub. You have to eventually do that anyway.


Just use a rubber hammer and tap around the edges of the cap to take it off. They bend easily so take it easy. They are really thin metal.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Babock is right, they are ez lube...much better than bearing buddies. My guess is the previous owner just topped them off with grease and never pulled and repacked. Going to tackle it this afternoon in the rain and will post what I find. I think the axle did have a sticker still, will check when I get home.

[rlh1957]

If a wheel wiggles when lugs are properly seated and torqued you have a bearing problem starting. There should be no perceivable wiggle when bearings are good, when the bearing race and bearing properly installed. Even a race that is a little off will not allow bearing to seat and ride properly and will allow some wallow that will get worse over time and premature bearing wear, even if it is just one side.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Alright guys it ain't pretty. The outer bearing definitely wiggles I can move it to one side like the first pic shows...they shouldn't move at all right, just spin? Rear seal filled the brakes with grease. Drum is coated and the entire mechanism. I can move the magnet and shoes will move out, but don't return on their own like they should. Can I just spray this down and clean it real good with brake cleaner? Or do I have to fork out for new brakes and drum/ hub assemblies on top of the bearing kits? Does the spindle look okay?

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Had to do another post...here's my axle stickers. Can somebody help me find the right bearings?

[007matman]

Found this..

https://www.etrailer.com/question-120473.html

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Hmm OP had a zerk in the middle..

Looks a lot like these.

Bearing Buddy Stainless Steel Bearing Protectors (1.980" Diameter) With Bras - Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D52C9BW..._pOV3CbP1B492V

Just sayin'

You are wrong.
The link you provide to bearing buddy caps are a spring loaded piston that injects grease at the castle nut and hopefully keeps slight pressure on the hub so as to limit water intrusion when the warm axle hubs are dunked in a cold lake at the boat ramp.


The OP picture is an EZ lube hub which is a grease zerk in the end of a drilled spindle. Grease is injected thru the drilled spindle to the rear bearing. There is no spring loaded piston and no residual pressure.
It's not tomato tomatoe it's potato vs carrot. NOT the same thing.

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by onecrazyfoo4u

Alright guys it ain't pretty. The outer bearing definitely wiggles I can move it to one side like the first pic shows...they shouldn't move at all right, just spin? Rear seal filled the brakes with grease. Drum is coated and the entire mechanism. I can move the magnet and shoes will move out, but don't return on their own like they should. Can I just spray this down and clean it real good with brake cleaner? Or do I have to fork out for new brakes and drum/ hub assemblies on top of the bearing kits? Does the spindle look okay?

You've got obvious wear on the magnet and all that burned grease. If it were me- I'd get a whole new brake back plate assembly complete with shoes and magnet ready to bolt on from E-trailer. Not all that expensive. Replace seals and bearings while you're at it.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Yeah I can't even get the Dr hub back onto the brakes...they are jammed and totally broke. Do you think I need a new drum hub too? I cleaned it up with brake cleaner. There's a slight notch where the shoes touch all the way around.

[Scrapper]

You need to replace the brake shoes. Any amount of grease, no matter how little, on the shoes contaminates the shoe material and no amount of brake cleaner will remove the grease. You have to replace the shoes on both ends of the axle, you cannot do just one brake and not the other. Depending on the thickness of the shoes you may not have to do both axles but most people do them at the same time.

[007matman]

Originally Posted by onecrazyfoo4u

Yeah I can't even get the Dr hub back onto the brakes...they are jammed and totally broke. Do you think I need a new drum hub too? I cleaned it up with brake cleaner. There's a slight notch where the shoes touch all the way around.

When I've seen drums in the past that are grooved on a vehicle they usually recommend that you get them resurfaced.

I believe most auto parts stores can resurface drums as well as rotors. Might be worth a call before you put it all back together.

[dward51]

If you replace the brake plate assembly, the one you have is a "self adjusting" model. I would stay with that. It will self adjust the tension on the brake shoes as you drive and once set, you will not have to periodically manually adjust the brakes.

Also I can't tell from the photo, but if you have CHINA bearings, you may want to consider replacing them even if they are good. I would go with Timken bearings which are premium grade and generally USA made. Amazon is usually the lowest price on these. The Timken grease seals may not all be USA made, but the bearings usually are. The grease seals are still 100% Timken quality made in a Timken facility. Just make sure you get "sold and shipped by Amazon" instead of a 3rd party vendor. NAPA also stocks Timken but they are more expensive than Amazon.

A Lippert 3,500lb axle "should" use the following parts and you can use Dexter or other parts if you want:

• 10" x 2 1/4" hub 5x4.5" 1/2" studs, LCI #126003
• Outer bearing cone L44649, LCI# 122089 Timken set 4 (1 bearing & 1 cup)
  
• Outer bearing cup L44610, LCI# 125102
• Inner bearing cone L68149, LCI# 122092 Timken set 17 (1 bearing & 1 cup)
  
• Inner bearing cup L68111, LCI# 124296
• Grease seal double lip 1.72" ID x 2.565" OD LCI# 122087 Timken #473336 Dexter 010-019-00, Transcom #171255TF National 473336 NOK AD2548EO
• 2" dust cap (1.98") Super lube hubs
• Spindle nut (1"), LCI# 122081
• Spindle washer, LCI# 119215
• cotter pin, LCI# 122075 1 3/4" x 1/8"

The Timken bearings can be bought in a set that includes a bearing and the matched race (also called cups). It is 1 bearing and 1 race, either the inner (set 17) or the outer (set 4). Sets do not include the grease seals. So for doing all 4 hubs you will need to order 4 of the "set 4" and 4 of the "set 17" and 4 of the grease seals.

If you replace a bearing, you should also replace the race (what the bearing rides against). If you don't have a large brass drift, I would buy one. You need it to drive out the old seals. The brass is softer than the steel of the hub so it should not damage the hub. I would recommend a 3/4" drift which is basically a 3/4" thick brass rod with some knurling on one end to help with the grip. You hit it with a hammer.

All are available at Amazon (Timken brand, and the brass drift).

You can buy bearings, races and seals on e-trailer for less, but they will CHINA made. Don't skimp on this as it is probably one of the most crucial parts on your trailer.

As to replacing that brake backer assembly, you will get new brakes and a new magnet with the replacement. It's ready to drop in and should require no assembly (again, stick with self-adjusting). E-trailer has their brand which is less expensive than Dexter, but I went with Dexter when I replaced mine. They can be bought in a axle set of left and right for either the e-Trailer brand or Dexter.

Grease - use a good quality grease. You want NLGI grade 2, and a good quality full synthetic is my preference. Lucus "red and tacky" is used by a lot of people. I use "Green Grease" (that is the brand name). It is 100% synthetic and the specs are higher than red and tacky and the Lucus HD grease. There are other brands that will work just fine though. DO NOT MIX lithium, calcium, sodium or barium complex greases. You can mix a lithium base with a lithium base of a different brand, but keep it simple and use one brand/style of grease and stick with it.

Brake drum - manual says the drum surface should be remachined (turned) if wear is more than 0.030" or out of round by more than 0.015". Replace if scoring or wear is greater than 0.090" (this is the outside edge where the pads ride). The inner surface where the magnet contacts the drum cannot be machined more than 0.030" if scored or worn uneven.

If you have never done it your self, there are a ton of Youtube videos. Some good, some not so much. Just watch several and you can tell which are the good and get a great idea on how to do the job.

One more thing, if you replace the bearings and races, it is important to use a torque wrench to seat the bearings and races. After you seat them with the torque wrench, you back off the castle nut and then set the final position and tension of the castle nut like normal. Not all the video's will show that as a lot of them are just repacking the bearings and not changing out the races and putting in new bearings. The only time you need to use the torque wrench on the castle nut is when bearing races are replaced. For just a grease repacking, you do not need to do this. Just seat the nut like normal.

Oh, and if you don't have a seal puller, get one. Not expensive and they make pulling the grease seal easy. DO NOT reuse a grease seal. They are one use and toss.

Might as well learn how to do this. It is recommended that the bearings be repacked and inspected every 12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.

[tande]

Originally Posted by babock

Bearing buddies are just a spring loaded device that replaces the grease cap. It just pressurizes the hub. It doesn't put grease through a hole at the inner end of the spindle. OP does not have one of these.

You're correct......my bad......you win!