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Old 07-09-2012, 01:29 PM   #11
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Yes. The bc work when I manually slide lock out but does not work when I push on the brake pedal. I just talked to a local dealer whom advised me it would be $55.00 to check the brakes and adjust them if needed. Think I should go that route first??

I am sure that have a part that they can plug into the 7 pin (to trick the truck into thinking there is a trailer connected and then take voltage and current readings off the brake pin to see if the truck is outputting voltage and current when the brake is pressed.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:36 PM   #12
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Yes the brakes work when I slide the brake lockout but do not when I press on the brake pedal. I just called a local dealer and he said $60 to check the brakes and adjust if needed. Think I should go that route?

He also advised they have a 7 pin plug that they can plug into the housing and take voltage and current reading from when the brake pedal is pushed. He said this would definitely tell him if it is a problem with the truck or the 5th wheel.

I really wish I could service this myself but maybe I just need to take the $60 hit and bring the unit over. What do you think?
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:47 PM   #13
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I agreed with Dave and think you should visit a Ford Dealer. On 2010 Ford 250 Manual, check out the bottom of page 257, "Wiring Fault on Trailer" message. http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../10f23og1e.pdf
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:47 PM   #14
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If I understand correctly, with the BC dialed up to 10 you have no brakes pushing the pedal but have brakes manually activating set a setting of 10 (or less?). If that's true, it can't be the brake adjustment on the camper.

You could check the plug yourself, with a helper and a voltage tester. You could check for voltage on the truck's connector brake pin (blue wire) when you push the brake pedal or activate manually.

If you don't have a voltage tester, it's good to have and frequently used.

Dave
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:52 PM   #15
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I hardly notice that my trailer brakes engage except under a hard stop. I always check mine with the override slider first and from time to time on our journey. Push the + button to the highest voltage and have someone depress the brake pedal while connected to the trailer. Do this while you're standing at the wheels. You will likely hear the solenoids buzz. Also put the truck in gear and ride the brake pedal. Truck shouldn't move and the roll the TV forward while walking beside the wheels and listen for brake drag. You may have bad solenoids one one or more wheels. For $60 are they going to diagnose the trailer once they determine it's not the truck? Not likely. For $60 you can buy the parts and make your own tester.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:01 PM   #16
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I was told that you have to have this "dummy" plug in order to trick the truck into thinking a trailer is plugged in. Otherwise you will not get any voltage at any of the pins on the 7 plug because the truck thinks there is nothing attached and thus does not send any voltage to the 7 pin. I really don;t think it is the 7 pin anyway. If it was the brakes would not work at all even when sliding the brake lockout.

Will the humming at the brakes be that loud that i will hear it?

Also in ref to the bottom of page 257 in the manual it states that if you get a trailer wiring fault when you plug in the trailer then it is the trailer.

If you trailer wiring fault with no trailer connected then it is the truck. I got it when I hooked up the trailer.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:27 PM   #17
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If the voltage is at max output you should definitely hear it. Even at normal voltage levels you typically hear it. I would try that first.
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:59 PM   #18
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If you determine that the truck controller is OK-------

I had a problem with my 2011 8285WS brakes when I first got it. After all the trips to three dealers to fix the brakes, one dealer finally contacted ALKO about the brakes. The problem found was two magnets were bad right from the factory. After the repairs were made, the RV could not be moved when you applied max braking. Even with the emergency brake-a-way being activated, before the repairs, you could still move the RV with no problem.

Maybe you have a bad brake magnet!
Good luck
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:26 AM   #19
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Thanks for everyones feedback. I have one other question. I heard at the campground that I was just at that the Ford-F250 will not even think of applying voltage to the trailer brakes until the truck is going at least 5 miles an hour. Is that true? Anyone hear of that?
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwin1
Thanks for everyones feedback. I have one other question. I heard at the campground that I was just at that the Ford-F250 will not even think of applying voltage to the trailer brakes until the truck is going at least 5 miles an hour. Is that true? Anyone hear of that?
Not sure but unlikely. How would you hold it on a hill?
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