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Old 06-17-2012, 08:44 PM   #11
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I found out that the front hubs were much hotter then the rear ones after a normal drive .... Regardless of braking, driving conditions, they were always hotter. I got one of those temperature guns and measered the rears around 39-42 I believe and fronts around 60 or 65.

Opened the hubs, replaced all bearings, adjusted the brakes (The rears had almost no wear so rear brakes were not working) and subsequent measurements IIRC was around 50F or so for all four hubs. That was after a normal day of driving, braking, and of course braking to stop I recall my buddies in another forum talking about 55F or so being normal. Yup, we all have the infrared temperature guns Takes only a minute to see what is going with the hubs on when you stop for a coffee break.

I hope this helps ....
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:55 PM   #12
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I found out that the front hubs were much hotter then the rear ones after a normal drive .... Regardless of braking, driving conditions, they were always hotter. I got one of those temperature guns and measered the rears around 39-42 I believe and fronts around 60 or 65.

Opened the hubs, replaced all bearings, adjusted the brakes (The rears had almost no wear so rear brakes were not working) and subsequent measurements IIRC was around 50F or so for all four hubs. That was after a normal day of driving, braking, and of course braking to stop I recall my buddies in another forum talking about 55F or so being normal. Yup, we all have the infrared temperature guns Takes only a minute to see what is going with the hubs on when you stop for a coffee break.

I hope this helps ....


You must be talking degrees celcius for above?
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:15 PM   #13
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Guys thanks for the feed back I will check all the hub nuts to be sure they are not to tight I was hoping someone could give me a temp rang to keep a eye on Goomp are you talking Celsius ?
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:51 PM   #14
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I meant to say should the hub move if i push pull on the tire
no it shouldnt move in or out

How I adjust them is remove the cotter pin - tighten the nut just enough where you have zero play when you give the wheel a tug.
I also lift the wheel off the ground so it makes it easier to get that feel
then reinstall the cotter pin and put the metal cover back on and then the rubber cover

might be a good idea to pump some grease into the bearings at the same time
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:00 PM   #15
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I also do the feel thing on the hub - it should be warm to the touch but not too hot that you cant hold it for a few seconds.

I know everyone has a way of doing bearings so my way may not be right for someone else so keep that in mind.

I have replaced bearings and races in the hubs of a previous trailer - if you do that and the hubs are still getting to warm then I would replace the hub and bearings as a complete package
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:11 PM   #16
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No hard stop before i checked the hub I don't think I could have done a 5 count on one of they all the hubs were what I would call very warm run only less than a hour 55 or less if the hub nuts are to tight will that make them run hot if the nuts are to tight if i back them off a hole should they move when i push and pull on the wheel?
I usually finger tighten the castellated nut while spinning the wheel and when the nut can't be turned by hand, I check by grabbing the top & bottom of the tire and see if there I can feel any movement in or out at the top or bottom. If no movement and a hole lines up, I install the cotter pin, if not and a hole does not line up, I will back the nut off til a hole lines up and check for play again, if there is play, I will tighten to the next hole and install cotter pin.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:18 PM   #17
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Tighten tight then back off 1/4 turn
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:20 PM   #18
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I seem to recall that if the trailer is low in the nose, more weight is placed on the front axle. The result might be a temperature differential.
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:40 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by feerobk View Post
Guys thanks for the feed back I will check all the hub nuts to be sure they are not to tight I was hoping someone could give me a temp rang to keep a eye on Goomp are you talking Celsius ?
I was quite serious. Ambient temperature after a few hours on the road.
They should not even get warm.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:06 AM   #20
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55c is about 130F - hot like a hot shower would be or perhaps a cup of coffee.
Braking will heat the drums and if that is part of the hub then it will also get warmer. I check mine (by feel) at rest stops - and I just used the brakes to get from 60 to 0mph and then to park, so there is some heat build up, but it shouldn't be a big amount (unless you just descended some large hill of course)
It's best to take readings now and then and unless you get somethign that boils water there's no need to immediatly take action. Most hubs are black and perhaps one side of your trailer was in the sun for the past hour and the other in the shade - that can make a 10-20F temp difference. If it's raining (or your splashing in puddles) that can cool the hubs below 'normal'.

As for packing with grease, yes, and use good grease. I prefer waterproof grease (used on boat trailers that get dunked when putting puts in/out of the water).

You do not want to pump grease in till you see it come out someplace - ever. You just blew the seal when you did that. Very bad as now dirt/moisture can get in. The grease on the seal, even if you wipe it off, collects dirt and dust which acts like sandpaper on the seal lip and will eat it away making it useless. This may have been standard practice 40 years ago but things have changed - most cars these days have sealed bearings (and ball joints and tie rod ends, etc) and they last 2-3 times longer than the old 'lube em till you see the grease come out' kinds. Thats mostly because there's no 'grease monkey' blowing their seals to allow dirt and moisture in.

You don't change your engine oil because it's failing to lubricate - you change it because it's dirty with combustion by products and moisture (from condensation). Same for grease - unless overheated or contaminated does not wear out.
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