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Old 07-14-2015, 10:02 AM   #1
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Hub rear seal leaking

I do have a problem with the hub rear seals leaks on two wheels. I tried seals from different manufacturer, but still no luck. I check the spindle for scratches, they are perfect, take the measurements, they are 2.25" how they should be. Using Valvoline Durablend semi synthetic grease. Other two hubs don't leak. Any idea what should I try ? Different grease....
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:12 AM   #2
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Is it possible / likely that after installation, that the hub / bearings were already full of grease and more was injected, forcing it out the seal? Seen it before. People seem to think they need to "give a few pumps of grease" every year (or however often) and then they experience this symptom. I guess they think grease evaporates. LOL!

If you need to inject more grease, it must have not had enough to begin with. If it has enough, add more will not help.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:10 AM   #3
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But I think, if this will be the case, I will see grease immediately, right ? But grease start to leak after I am towing the trailer for some miles...
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:18 AM   #4
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is it possible that an axle may have been changed? there are 2 different sizes in the 5200/6000 pound axle range. maybe one axle requires a different seal...ive seen it happen personally...
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:36 PM   #5
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Both axles are 7000 # rating, problem is that one side is a leaking, but other side on same axle don't.
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:42 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by milosusa View Post
But I think, if this will be the case, I will see grease immediately, right ? But grease start to leak after I am towing the trailer for some miles...
milos
Not necessarily. The first thing a leaking grease seal on electric brakes (drum type) is reduce or nearly eliminate braking for that wheel. And you may or may not notice that.

I'm doing the yearly inspection on our 2014 Columbus 365RL now and found the left front seal has been leaking, reducing or eliminating braking on that wheel and there was no external evidence. The only symptom we had was some pulsing / bucking under heavy braking (and I really only noticed it over the last two trips (about 2,000 miles).

The point is, that the manufacturer recommends a yearly inspection and I follow that. The first one showed no issues. This second one showed two so far. The leaking brake seal and excessive calcium deposits in the water heater.

The water heater I figured out when I flushed it, then inspected it with an inspection camera (Harbor Freight Cen-Tech - Item#61839) and saw all the calcium chunks and flakes in there. Repeated flushing did NOT remove it. But fabricating a bent tube and attaching it to a wet vac did. Took about 30 minutes to completely flush and clean the water heater and install a new anode rod.

I believe in the old adage, "If you want it done right, do it yourself."
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:48 PM   #7
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driver side by any chance? could it be that the brakes are disconnected on the pass side causing excessive heat on that side and grease to liquify and force past seals?
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:52 PM   #8
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I don't have electric brakes, but the disc brakes. But agree with your statement 100 % , if want to done it right, do it yourself lol
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:58 PM   #9
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driver side by any chance? could it be that the brakes are disconnected on the pass side causing excessive heat on that side and grease to liquify and force past seals?
Actually the leaking is on passenger side, and I am sure disc brake work on both side of the trailer.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:01 PM   #10
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Both axles are 7000 # rating, problem is that one side is a leaking, but other side on same axle don't.
milos
Is it possible that that side is running hot due to a bad bearing or dragging brakes? If the grease it heating up it will melt and leak out.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:13 PM   #11
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For that, we carry Harbor Freight IR Thermometer (Pittsburgh - Item#93984) and check hub/brakes when we stop to eat/rest/fuel. Found our truck's LF caliper dragging (temp was about 200* higher than the other side, though the truck did not exhibit a pulling symptom or smell.

Also found a seal leak once (cool reading) even though there was no external evidence of a leak or symptom of a braking problem.

I keep an eye on things. I would rather avoid a catastrophic failure.
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2011 F350 Lariat 4x4 DRW SuperCrew 6.7L (B&W setup w/Air Lift 5000 Ultimate)
2014 Columbus 365RL (Airflex and Voyager package)
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:17 PM   #12
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Is it possible that that side is running hot due to a bad bearing or dragging brakes? If the grease it heating up it will melt and leak out.
Bearing have only 1500 miles on them, I even installed US made bearings in hub, don't like those Chinese too much. lol
They look good after 1500 miles and wheels spin freely when I rise the axles.
But for sure there is possibility of dragging brakes after brakes engage couple time when towing....
Was thinking maybe put SKF speedi sleeve on leaking axle to put more pressure on the seal lips....
milos
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:20 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DutchF View Post
For that, we carry Harbor Freight IR Thermometer (Pittsburgh - Item#93984) and check hub/brakes when we stop to eat/rest/fuel. Found our truck's LF caliper dragging (temp was about 200* higher than the other side, though the truck did not exhibit a pulling symptom or smell.

Also found a seal leak once (cool reading) even though there was no external evidence of a leak or symptom of a braking problem.

I keep an eye on things. I would rather avoid a catastrophic failure.
That is a great idea, I do have IR thermometer and will try that on next trip.
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