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Old 08-03-2016, 09:37 AM   #41
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OP -
Now for a quick aside question regarding TPMS.

We just started RVing this year, our first 4 outings have been about 1 hour or less away.

This weekend we have a 3 1/2hr trip and was wanting a TPMS however, most say you need a metal valve stem. One out there says you don't but it is recommended.

OP did you have your valve stems swapped out?

Does anyone run with rubber valve stems? I would like the assurance for the trip. But don't really have the time this week to get the valve stems replaced.

Had a bubble on the side wall of an original tire (D rated) and took it in to be replaced. I asked for a metal valve stem and was told that the rim would not allow the bolt in metal type, but I was able to get a High Pressure stem that has the metal sleeve. I also went from the D-rated to the E-rated tire.
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:50 AM   #42
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I asked for a metal valve stem and was told that the rim would not allow the bolt in metal type,
Most likely, they didn't have the "correct" bolt in valve stem for your particular wheel application...but that doesn't mean that the rim won't allow all bolt in stems.

We have run into several applications on Forest River products/wheels where the valve stem hole is situated on the wheel flange in such a way that you cannot use a TR-416... but a TR-428 will work since it's built different.

I have a feeling they just didn't have in stock or experience with a TR-428 stem (since it's not as widely used) when telling you that.

TR428 1.50" Chrome Plated Brass Valve for Ford Trucks: Tire supplies, wheel weights, valve stems, patches, air chucks,TPMS

and here is a previous discussion we had on this scenario:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post535157
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:17 PM   #43
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Oh yes I take the sensors off to balance the tires, my sensors don't have the locks on
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Why take them off? They don't weigh much, but heck, I'd leave them on.

Mine came today and I got them installed, being OCD and trying to get all the tire to 50# - well that's another story. The TST 507 was very easy to install.

I got the metal valve stem covers and removed the anti-theft covers but they are very lightweight so I put them back on. I did pick up some stick- on wheel weights. They say the sensors are 13.5g and the metal valve stem cover is only about 0.5g so I have 15 g wheel weights I can counter balance them if I want. I don't know if they were ever balanced as most trailer tires I don't think are balanced anyway as a rule.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:29 AM   #44
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Mine came today and I got them installed, being OCD and trying to get all the tire to 50# - well that's another story. The TST 507 was very easy to install.

I got the metal valve stem covers and removed the anti-theft covers but they are very lightweight so I put them back on. I did pick up some stick- on wheel weights. They say the sensors are 13.5g and the metal valve stem cover is only about 0.5g so I have 15 g wheel weights I can counter balance them if I want. I don't know if they were ever balanced as most trailer tires I don't think are balanced anyway as a rule.
You will get a smoother ride and better tire wear if all of your tires are balanced. If the tires are too far out of balance, they will get flat spots from pounding the pavement. Just look at other vehicles. When you see a tire not running smoothly, it is balance. Bad shocks will amplify the bounce. While balance tires, we have also found 2 tires over the years that were faulty. One was new and the other only had a few thousand miles. Those two tires would have failed on the road.
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:21 PM   #45
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Now I have five new Hercules E-rated tires.
Anybody hear of them?




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Old 08-09-2016, 04:36 PM   #46
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Greetings my L/H rear driverside failed just like MarkyB.I lost almost 3/4 of the tread from the sidewall all the way across to the other sidewall.Causing well I just got a repair time of 2 weeks,maybe less.Wiped out all of the pulp wood and you can see the styraform now.So it must be fixed before we travel because of rain further damaging the bottom of the flooring.Does any one put 3/8-1/4 inch thick alumnium plate to prevent and is there a recall to replace these dangerous low speed rated tire on these chassis,I am under warranty and am thinking of asking FR to replace all these tires due to a to low of speed rating tire installed why 60 most hwy's are 75-80.It still blewout and we were going 60 the whole time,I save fuel,but everone pass's us.Engineering at FR really miss the tuna boat on that selection.........
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:50 PM   #47
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Greetings my L/H rear driverside failed just like MarkyB.I lost almost 3/4 of the tread from the sidewall all the way across to the other sidewall.Causing well I just got a repair time of 2 weeks,maybe less.Wiped out all of the pulp wood and you can see the styraform now.So it must be fixed before we travel because of rain further damaging the bottom of the flooring.Does any one put 3/8-1/4 inch thick alumnium plate to prevent and is there a recall to replace these dangerous low speed rated tire on these chassis,I am under warranty and am thinking of asking FR to replace all these tires due to a to low of speed rating tire installed why 60 most hwy's are 75-80.It still blewout and we were going 60 the whole time,I save fuel,but everone pass's us.Engineering at FR really miss the tuna boat on that selection.........
I read some time ago on another forum where a guy installed some trailer fenders for somelike a utility trailor or car hauler under the body above the RV tires. Don't know how it worked out but that may be a resolution.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:37 PM   #48
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I read some time ago on another forum where a guy installed some trailer fenders for somelike a utility trailor or car hauler under the body above the RV tires. Don't know how it worked out but that may be a resolution.
That's a great idea!
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Old 08-16-2016, 12:27 PM   #49
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I forgot to post a picture of the tire,and the damage it cause.This looks like a tread seperation.From one side of side wall to the other side.Caused a hole in the flooring.How do they repair this.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:03 PM   #50
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Some more pics.
The inside of the first tire.




From left to right is the spare, ran about 800 miles.
The next two are front axle.
Last two are rear axle.



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Old 08-16-2016, 04:20 PM   #51
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Sorry to say, the best RV tire made is likely to fail anywhere near OK City on I35. If you want to see how well your RV is made, travel this section of Interstate a few times and good luck, you'll need it!
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:01 PM   #52
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I-35 on Oklahoma was actually pretty good. Must have just fixed it.
I-35 in Texas was terrible.


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Old 08-17-2016, 08:51 AM   #53
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Sorry to say, the best RV tire made is likely to fail anywhere near OK City on I35. If you want to see how well your RV is made, travel this section of Interstate a few times and good luck, you'll need it!
Yes, having done a lot of traveling in several states up and down the east coast, it's apparent the roads, especially interstates are sadly in need of repair: crying:. This and lesser quality tires (from 20 years ago) really present more problems. I've been RVing for over 40 years and see an steady increase in tire failures.
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:51 AM   #54
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Here is our tire failure it was a Castle Rock ST.It had 8 months and 1729 miles on it before it seperated.Did some damage to the flooring above.The tire dealer Forest River sent us to stated the tire failed.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:03 PM   #55
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Here is our tire failure it was a Castle Rock ST.It had 8 months and 1729 miles on it before it seperated.Did some damage to the flooring above.The tire dealer Forest River sent us to stated the tire failed.
That is a tread separation. Most of those can be traced to design or manufacturing.
What is the DOT serial so we can ID the plant that made the tire. This should be reported to NHTSA as they need the facts before they can force a MFG to do a recall.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:26 PM   #56
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Here is our tire failure it was a Castle Rock ST.It had 8 months and 1729 miles on it before it seperated.Did some damage to the flooring above.The tire dealer Forest River sent us to stated the tire failed.
Tireman thinks it's design, and I bow to his expertise, but think about this, too:

I'm assuming you mean YOU had 8 months and 1729 miles on it?

What is the date of manufacture? Where did you buy your TT from? It had to be delivered from Indiana to wherever you bought it and who knows how nicely they were treated on the way. (I see lots of them being delivered up through Illinois. The transport guy is doing 70+ mph down the interstate.)
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:30 AM   #57
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Tireman thinks it's design, and I bow to his expertise, but think about this, too:

I'm assuming you mean YOU had 8 months and 1729 miles on it?

What is the date of manufacture? Where did you buy your TT from? It had to be delivered from Indiana to wherever you bought it and who knows how nicely they were treated on the way. (I see lots of them being delivered up through Illinois. The transport guy is doing 70+ mph down the interstate.)

There is little question that running a tire at speed above its rated limit is not good for the tire. The good news is that the new trailer was at it's minimum weight, so I would not lay blame at feet of delivery company (but they need to do a better job).

Tires should be able to run at rated load with full inflation much longer than 1800 miles. Tread separations are a function of the properties of the rubber compounds used around the steel and between the belts and tread. There are construction features (strips of Nylon) that can significantly improve the strength of a tine in the belt edge area. I see indication of that feature in this tire.
If I am reading the picture correctly we are seeing the top steel belt. This would indicate the weakness was between belts and tread. Again special compounds are available to ensure this bond is strong enough but in this case it wasn't.

Again. File a complaint with NHTSA on the "Tread Separation" You will need the RV VIN and the tire DOT serial. In the complaint indicate you have picture of failed tire. A single complaint will not get a replacement but if everyone (most?) that had a failure on this tire it might.

Early separations are usually an indication of design (specification) or manufacturing (incorrect mixing or formulation of rubber) error.

With Design based problem a large % of the tires would have similar failure. With Manufacturing it may be a "batch" (few hundred) made at the same time. This is why knowing the DOT is so important. If there is a spike in the numbers over a one or 2 week period it would point to factory issue. If there is a low umber but constant across most weeks of production then specification is probably the issue.

This thought process is how failure analysis is doen and root cause identified.
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