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Old 05-10-2013, 02:06 PM   #41
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BTW, you do have the 5er attached to your TV while you're doing this don't you?
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:11 PM   #42
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Have you looked at something like this?

EZ Lift Jack Aluminum Wheel Chock
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:12 PM   #43
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Here's my two cents.
  1. Taking advice on how to do something that could get you killed off of the internet is a very questionable activity.
  2. If those are Dexter axles, the book specifically says not to jack on them. Having said that, I agree with Turbs that there is no where to jack on your frame (and don't know that the frame could support a single-point lift with that much force either).
  3. Turbs has the same RV and experience, so do as he says and put the jack only under where the u-bolts are.
  4. I wouldn't even try to use a jack-stand (because trying to get that on the u-bolts at the same time as the jack is going to be difficult). Jack up one wheel, remove the tire, put the spare on that wheel and lower it. Jack up the other wheel, take the tire off, leave the jack in place and go to the tire store. (It the jack sags a little, it's OK since you've still got the spare on the other wheel to support the trailer.)
  5. A floor jack might be nice, but one with enough tonnage to support half of your trailer will be expensive and, as you said, you can't use it anywhere else. Go to either Sears or a reputable auto-parts store and buy no less than an 6-ton jack. (The price doesn't go up that much for higher power and you want to make sure you have enough. Mine is 10-ton. I think Lou's is 12-ton.)
  6. That block of wood is only to spread the force around the area of those u-bolts... not to spread the weight onto the axle tube so it doesn't need to be big and it doesn't matter which direction you put it.
First, to your other post - yes, it'll be hitched to the truck. I saw that somewhere else.

Second, why the Internet? I have no one else to go to.

Third, I can't figure out why size of floor jack at this point. Here's a 3-ton jack from Sears:
3 ton floor jack

But, from what you say above - this won't nearly be enough. Though, what I read earlier said it'll be enough to get a jack stand underneath (wait- re-reading what you wrote up there.. you're saying don't use them; just use the jack).
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:13 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by awwall View Post
Have you looked at something like this?

EZ Lift Jack Aluminum Wheel Chock
I haven't looked at that specifically, but I tried using a ramp- but my 2nd wheel didn't clear the ground until I lifted the camper a good 6 1/2" and even then, it was barely off the ground (1/8" or so).
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:24 PM   #45
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Second, why the Internet? I have no one else to go to.

Third, I can't figure out why size of floor jack at this point. Here's a 3-ton jack from Sears:
3 ton floor jack

But, from what you say above - this won't nearly be enough. Though, what I read earlier said it'll be enough to get a jack stand underneath (wait- re-reading what you wrote up there.. you're saying don't use them; just use the jack).
Which reminds me, I wanted to suggest that if Forest River (for your brand) has a customer-service number that you should call them and ask where a jack should be placed under your RV.

You're going to be lifting about 1/2 of your trailer, which is approaching 3-tons. I never trust using something to its stated capacity, but then I don't ride roller-coasters or trust that people have designed anything else quite like they thought they did. I'm probably just way too conservative on this sort of thing.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:28 PM   #46
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I would use the square metal box tube in the photo.
It is secured to the frame above it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:41 PM   #47
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On second thought, I would recommend you find a good local mechanic that has the proper tools, ie.. jack, jack stands, air tools. You will be money ahead. Don't take this the wrong way, but you may not have the skills to pull this off.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:44 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
...You're going to be lifting about 1/2 of your trailer, which is approaching 3-tons...
Don't think that's quite right, he's only lifting one tire at a time and the truck is supporting 18-25% and the other 3 tires are supporting a major portion of the weight. 3T jack should be adequate.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:45 PM   #49
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On second thought, I would recommend you find a good local mechanic that has the proper tools, ie.. jack, jack stands, air tools. You will be money ahead. Don't take this the wrong way, but you may not have the skills to pull this off.
It's a fair statement and mention. I don't mind tackling a lot of other challenges - this one has me nervous, simply due to the size and potential for catastrophic failure if it goes wrong.

There aren't any RV places nearby w/o driving a bunch on the highway to get there (and given the large bubble on the inside of one of the tires and I'm already on a spare for another tire - I just don't want to risk highway driving with it). And, the places around me all have really little parking lots for a big rig to get in and around.

And... well, I'd like to acquire a new skill.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:48 PM   #50
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Don't think that's quite right, he's only lifting one tire at a time and the truck is supporting 18-25% and the other 3 tires are supporting a major portion of the weight. 3T jack should be adequate.
I remember this discussion some months (years?) ago regarding tire blowouts and overloaded axles and tires.

Worst case is less than 1/2 camper if you jack up both tires because in a TT the tongue weight is supported by the jack screw and with a 5th wheel ALL the pin load and a fair portion of the camper's weight is supported by the two landing gear.

With 12,000 on the axles; WORST case is lifting 12,000 pounds (or 6 tons) with that jack. I think it will be much less weight and the 6 ton jack will be fine. Harder to pump and be SURE you have good jack stands, but it should work to lift both tires off the ground.

A 3 ton jack will work for one tire.
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