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Old 05-10-2013, 01:06 PM   #41
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BTW, you do have the 5er attached to your TV while you're doing this don't you?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:11 PM   #42
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Have you looked at something like this?

EZ Lift Jack Aluminum Wheel Chock
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:12 PM   #43
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Here's my two cents.
  1. Taking advice on how to do something that could get you killed off of the internet is a very questionable activity.
  2. If those are Dexter axles, the book specifically says not to jack on them. Having said that, I agree with Turbs that there is no where to jack on your frame (and don't know that the frame could support a single-point lift with that much force either).
  3. Turbs has the same RV and experience, so do as he says and put the jack only under where the u-bolts are.
  4. I wouldn't even try to use a jack-stand (because trying to get that on the u-bolts at the same time as the jack is going to be difficult). Jack up one wheel, remove the tire, put the spare on that wheel and lower it. Jack up the other wheel, take the tire off, leave the jack in place and go to the tire store. (It the jack sags a little, it's OK since you've still got the spare on the other wheel to support the trailer.)
  5. A floor jack might be nice, but one with enough tonnage to support half of your trailer will be expensive and, as you said, you can't use it anywhere else. Go to either Sears or a reputable auto-parts store and buy no less than an 6-ton jack. (The price doesn't go up that much for higher power and you want to make sure you have enough. Mine is 10-ton. I think Lou's is 12-ton.)
  6. That block of wood is only to spread the force around the area of those u-bolts... not to spread the weight onto the axle tube so it doesn't need to be big and it doesn't matter which direction you put it.
First, to your other post - yes, it'll be hitched to the truck. I saw that somewhere else.

Second, why the Internet? I have no one else to go to.

Third, I can't figure out why size of floor jack at this point. Here's a 3-ton jack from Sears:
3 ton floor jack

But, from what you say above - this won't nearly be enough. Though, what I read earlier said it'll be enough to get a jack stand underneath (wait- re-reading what you wrote up there.. you're saying don't use them; just use the jack).
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:13 PM   #44
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Have you looked at something like this?

EZ Lift Jack Aluminum Wheel Chock
I haven't looked at that specifically, but I tried using a ramp- but my 2nd wheel didn't clear the ground until I lifted the camper a good 6 1/2" and even then, it was barely off the ground (1/8" or so).
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:24 PM   #45
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Second, why the Internet? I have no one else to go to.

Third, I can't figure out why size of floor jack at this point. Here's a 3-ton jack from Sears:
3 ton floor jack

But, from what you say above - this won't nearly be enough. Though, what I read earlier said it'll be enough to get a jack stand underneath (wait- re-reading what you wrote up there.. you're saying don't use them; just use the jack).
Which reminds me, I wanted to suggest that if Forest River (for your brand) has a customer-service number that you should call them and ask where a jack should be placed under your RV.

You're going to be lifting about 1/2 of your trailer, which is approaching 3-tons. I never trust using something to its stated capacity, but then I don't ride roller-coasters or trust that people have designed anything else quite like they thought they did. I'm probably just way too conservative on this sort of thing.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #46
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I would use the square metal box tube in the photo.
It is secured to the frame above it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:41 PM   #47
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On second thought, I would recommend you find a good local mechanic that has the proper tools, ie.. jack, jack stands, air tools. You will be money ahead. Don't take this the wrong way, but you may not have the skills to pull this off.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:44 PM   #48
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...You're going to be lifting about 1/2 of your trailer, which is approaching 3-tons...
Don't think that's quite right, he's only lifting one tire at a time and the truck is supporting 18-25% and the other 3 tires are supporting a major portion of the weight. 3T jack should be adequate.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:45 PM   #49
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On second thought, I would recommend you find a good local mechanic that has the proper tools, ie.. jack, jack stands, air tools. You will be money ahead. Don't take this the wrong way, but you may not have the skills to pull this off.
It's a fair statement and mention. I don't mind tackling a lot of other challenges - this one has me nervous, simply due to the size and potential for catastrophic failure if it goes wrong.

There aren't any RV places nearby w/o driving a bunch on the highway to get there (and given the large bubble on the inside of one of the tires and I'm already on a spare for another tire - I just don't want to risk highway driving with it). And, the places around me all have really little parking lots for a big rig to get in and around.

And... well, I'd like to acquire a new skill.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:48 PM   #50
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Don't think that's quite right, he's only lifting one tire at a time and the truck is supporting 18-25% and the other 3 tires are supporting a major portion of the weight. 3T jack should be adequate.
I remember this discussion some months (years?) ago regarding tire blowouts and overloaded axles and tires.

Worst case is less than 1/2 camper if you jack up both tires because in a TT the tongue weight is supported by the jack screw and with a 5th wheel ALL the pin load and a fair portion of the camper's weight is supported by the two landing gear.

With 12,000 on the axles; WORST case is lifting 12,000 pounds (or 6 tons) with that jack. I think it will be much less weight and the 6 ton jack will be fine. Harder to pump and be SURE you have good jack stands, but it should work to lift both tires off the ground.

A 3 ton jack will work for one tire.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:06 PM   #51
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It's a fair statement and mention. I don't mind tackling a lot of other challenges - this one has me nervous, simply due to the size and potential for catastrophic failure if it goes wrong.
Ask around, maybe you can find a "backyard" mechanic that has some experience in this and would be willing to come over and oversee you. Another set of eyes could be the difference between success and disaster.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:13 PM   #52
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I would use the square metal box tube in the photo.
It is secured to the frame above it.
To this idea... how do I span the distance? From ground to the bottom of that box is 23". Then there's the amount of lift needed to get the wheels of the ground (another 5-6" maybe?).

Most of the jacks that I've seen only have 10" or of travel and max out at 15" tall or so.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:14 PM   #53
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It's a fair statement and mention. I don't mind tackling a lot of other challenges - this one has me nervous, simply due to the size and potential for catastrophic failure if it goes wrong.
Ask around, maybe you can find a "backyard" mechanic that has some experience in this and would be willing to come over and oversee you. Another set of eyes could be the difference between success and disaster.
True. My father-in-law is coming down this weekend for helping with our backyard renovation (putting in sod). I was sort of hoping to get this all wrapped up before then.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:25 PM   #54
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To this idea... how do I span the distance? From ground to the bottom of that box is 23". Then there's the amount of lift needed to get the wheels of the ground (another 5-6" maybe?).

Most of the jacks that I've seen only have 10" or of travel and max out at 15" tall or so.
If you use a bottle jack, a good piece of 6x6, cut the correct length to get jack up close would do the trick. If you could find a piece of Oak, that would be even better. Do you have any loggers around your location? They are a prime source to find wood of this size in Oak.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #55
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If you use a bottle jack, a good piece of 6x6, cut the correct length to get jack up close would do the trick. If you could find a piece of Oak, that would be even better. Do you have any loggers around your location? They are a prime source to find wood of this size in Oak.
No loggers here (Baltimore/DC suburbs), a chunk of fence post is the best that I'm going to get...
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:37 PM   #56
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No loggers here (Baltimore/DC suburbs), a chunk of fence post is the best that I'm going to get...
see here, one of these should do the trick.

6x6*at The Home Depot
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:39 PM   #57
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Don't think that's quite right, he's only lifting one tire at a time and the truck is supporting 18-25% and the other 3 tires are supporting a major portion of the weight. 3T jack should be adequate.
Don't buy a jack to lift one tire and then find out that you saved $20 (if that) and later need to lift two tires!
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:39 PM   #58
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The block of wood goes under the jack and the jack stands.
If you have ever seen a jack sink into asphalt you will know why.

Once it starts sinking, you can't get the tire off (or worst yet on) without ANOTHER jack.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FcJo4AodARUAIA

PLENTY of jack for 36 bucks

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4827_200304827

A 4 ton (8,000 pounds for 16 bucks

A 6 Ton for 20.00
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4817_200304817
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:43 PM   #59
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I might want to add, you need to be as level as you can!!!
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:46 PM   #60
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I might want to add, you need to be as level as you can!!!
It's not level.

The camper is parked on the road in front of my house. The road slopes to shed rain water. When I raise my camper to level, I need 4" of blocks...
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