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Old 05-10-2013, 02:51 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
It's not level.

The camper is parked on the road in front of my house. The road slopes to shed rain water. When I raise my camper to level, I need 4" of blocks...
The 12 ton jack has 9 inches of lift. It is 9 inches tall before you start pumping and a bit over 18 inches fully extended.

A 6x6 under it starts out at 14 inches or so and can lift to 24 inches.

Double up the 6x6 (10 inches plus the 9 to start) and you will lift to 28 inches.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:54 PM   #62
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The block of wood goes under the jack and the jack stands.
If you have ever seen a jack sink into asphalt you will know why.

Once it starts sinking, you can't get the tire off (or worst yet on) without ANOTHER jack.
Sounds like a man talking from experience. I learned my lesson by using a 6"x6" piece of 1/2" plywood with a 4ton bottle jack on soft ground. I had to change my front wheel bearing on my old mud truck with 38.5 TSL Boggers. Let’s just say the tire came off quite easy, but I had to get another jack and bigger piece of ply wood to get the tire back on. I can say that was the first and last time that has happened to me.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:04 PM   #63
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This is not my trailer but this is how I jack mine up. with the exception I usually jack one side up at a time putting the bottle jacks one in front of the front axle and one just behind the rear axle, using the frame. When I do repack the bearings I do one side at a time. When I go for new tires I jack one side up and place jack stands on that side and then jack the other side up. I take all four tires at once. I would never trust a tire shop to jack up my trailer.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by camper1999 View Post
This is not my trailer but this is how I jack mine up. with the exception I usually jack one side up at a time putting the bottle jacks one in front of the front axle and one just behind the rear axle, using the frame. When I do repack the bearings I do one side at a time. When I go for new tires I jack one side up and place jack stands on that side and then jack the other side up. I take all four tires at once. I would never trust a tire shop to jack up my trailer.
Sabres do not have an exposed frame sorry.

The frame is covered by plastic under belly and aluminum facia.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:26 PM   #65
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Not to mention the outside kitchen gas line is attached to the frame the whole right side of the camper.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:30 PM   #66
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BTW, you do have the 5er attached to your TV while you're doing this don't you?
I was saying the same thing as I was reading this thread.
Good point to make Barry!

BTW guys....Great thread! One of the better discussions I've seen on this forum.
And everyone is stating civil too!
Good job!

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Old 05-10-2013, 03:34 PM   #67
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Holy smokes, lots of scary "advice" today!

You have a regular spring suspension, so ignore all of the talk about jacking on the frame, as only those with rubber torsion axles have to do that. And yes, jack under the U-bolts that hold the axle to the springs.

Two issues with a bottle jack. First, never put a block of wood on top of the jack, as the small head could split the wood and your camper could come crashing down. Second, if the camper is not attached to the TV, it could roll and fall off the jack.
Much better, and safer, to buy a small floor jack, and a 3-ton should be plenty heavy enough, as you only lift one axle at a time. Don't forget to "crack" the nuts loose before you jack it up. And when tightening the nuts, after you have them snugged up, lower the jack to put a bit of pressure on the tire to keep it from spinning, then finish torqueing them to spec.

Once you have done one wheel, you will be amazed at how simple and safe it is. Just use the right jack, and you will be safe.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:37 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by camper1999 View Post
This is not my trailer but this is how I jack mine up. with the exception I usually jack one side up at a time putting the bottle jacks one in front of the front axle and one just behind the rear axle, using the frame. When I do repack the bearings I do one side at a time. When I go for new tires I jack one side up and place jack stands on that side and then jack the other side up. I take all four tires at once. I would never trust a tire shop to jack up my trailer.

That might not be advisable on some of the campers with lighter frames, as the concentrated load on the head of the bottle jack could bend the frame. I use a piece of heavy-wall 2x2 inch steel square tube, about 18 inches long, to distribute the weight.
The frame on my fifth is really, really light. Yours does look a lot heavier, but why take the chance?
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:23 PM   #69
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Holy smokes, lots of scary "advice" today!

You have a regular spring suspension, so ignore all of the talk about jacking on the frame, as only those with rubber torsion axles have to do that. And yes, jack under the U-bolts that hold the axle to the springs.
Scary indeed. I have the Dexter Axle book right in front of me and it clearly says not to jack on the axle...any of them. Maybe you know more about this than the manufacturer does, but giving such advice publicly is "scary".
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:28 PM   #70
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Scary indeed. I have the Dexter Axle book right in front of me and it clearly says not to jack on the axle...any of them. Maybe you know more about this than the manufacturer does, but giving such advice publicly is "scary".
That is a disclaimer, as people would put a jack under the unsupported tube, and thus bend the axle. There is no issue with jacking under the U-bolts, done it a hundred times, literally.

So in this case, it would appear that I do know more than the manufacturer!
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:40 PM   #71
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I might want to add, you need to be as level as you can!!!
It's not level.

The camper is parked on the road in front of my house. The road slopes to shed rain water. When I raise my camper to level, I need 4" of blocks...
The 12 ton jack has 9 inches of lift. It is 9 inches tall before you start pumping and a bit over 18 inches fully extended.


A 6x6 under it starts out at 14 inches or so and can lift to 24 inches.


Double up the 6x6 (10 inches plus the 9 to start) and you will lift to 28 inches.
Lou,
I think awwall's original post was concerned about the trailer falling off the jack if it wasn't level. (Heaven forbid you should ever have a flat on unlevel ground! ;-) )


I was most interested to hear your opinion on that since I don't know what I think about it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:52 PM   #72
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Lou,
I think awwall's original post was concerned about the trailer falling off the jack if it wasn't level. (Heaven forbid you should ever have a flat on unlevel ground! ;-) )


I was most interested to hear your opinion on that since I don't know what I think about it.
Barry, that is exactly what I was referring to. You can see from the pictures just posted of the jacks on the wood, how unstable this can become if the trailer is way out of level. Heaven forbid this thing to fall off the jack.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:52 PM   #73
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I picked up two of these from my local Tractor Supply and love them. I usually throw one in the truck when I leave on a trip. Not much larger than a bottle jack, plenty of lift, and the 'U' channel on the top keeps the axel from falling off.

Powerbuilt® 3 Ton Jack & Jack Stand - Tractor Supply Online Store

Disclaimer: if I'm at home I use a floor jack to lift the equipment and then put these floor stands under it for safety. They are nice because if you need a little more lift it can be achieved.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:54 PM   #74
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Sabres do not have an exposed frame sorry.

The frame is covered by plastic under belly and aluminum facia.
Where they come together (I believe) is the frame.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:58 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Kf4mnc View Post
I picked up two of these from my local Tractor Supply and love them. I usually throw one in the truck when I leave on a trip. Not much larger than a bottle jack, plenty of lift, and the 'U' channel on the top keeps the axel from falling off.

Powerbuilt® 3 Ton Jack & Jack Stand - Tractor Supply Online Store

Disclaimer: if I'm at home I use a floor jack to lift the equipment and then put these floor stands under it for safety. They are nice because if you need a little more lift it can be achieved.
They are cool. Shame only in 3 ton...
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:28 PM   #76
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...
Two issues with a bottle jack. First, never put a block of wood on top of the jack, as the small head could split the wood and your camper could come crashing down.
Excellent point. I actually broke a piece of hard oak I was using that way. I'm disappointed in myself for not remembering that.

Something like these are probably the right way to go:
http://bmihydraulics.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=23

http://www.swagoffroad.com/Bottle-Ja...adle_p_66.html
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:31 PM   #77
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Excellent point. I actually broke a piece of hard oak I was using that way. I'm disappointed in myself for not remembering that.

Something like these are probably the right way to go:
Round Pad for Bottle Jacks

Bottle Jack Axle Cradle
Might be time to head to the race shop and fabricate something.... I got torsion, but I can make a frame sleeve...maybe??
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:45 PM   #78
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Might be time to head to the race shop and fabricate something.... I got torsion, but I can make a frame sleeve...maybe??
Ohhh! Make me one too! I'll pay. Maybe you can go into business like OldCoot did! (I thought I'd find be able to find a "cup" like on my floor jack, but didn't.)
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:58 PM   #79
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Ohhh! Make me one too! I'll pay. Maybe you can go into business like OldCoot did! (I thought I'd find be able to find a "cup" like on my floor jack, but didn't.)
One thing at a time. Full time overnight jobs take a lot out of me.

In all reality, I am waiting to see how Doug makes out. I think he is sweating over nothing.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:10 PM   #80
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75+ posts on the subject would make me sweat too. :-)
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