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Old 05-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #81
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Wow! read all 80 posts. Best advise comes from post 36 except step 6 in post, and Turbs. A trolley floor jack lifts in an arc, and those little wheels on that jack won't roll on soft or uneven ground for approx 6 to 8 ". Chock wheels opposite side leave hooked up to tow vehicle use bottle jack 3 ton's is sufficient, one wheel at a time like post 36. Don't sweat the small stuff!
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #82
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With the truck hooked to the camper, I used some 6x6x12 blocks and a 12 ton bottle jack. Set the jack on the blocks and set the jack just behind the rear spring hanger. I jacked up one side at the time. Put jack stands at u bolts, then I remove the two tires. on that side.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by prairiecamper View Post
A trolley floor jack lifts in an arc, and those little wheels on that jack won't roll on soft or uneven ground for approx 6 to 8 "
As the OP would be lifting under the axle, he would only have to jack it up maybe 3 inches. So that wouldn't be an issue.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:56 PM   #84
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Scary indeed. I have the Dexter Axle book right in front of me and it clearly says not to jack on the axle...any of them. Maybe you know more about this than the manufacturer does, but giving such advice publicly is "scary".
Just one quick question. You agreed with Turbs that jacking under the U-bolts was the way to go, but then post that I was wrong to suggest that?
Which is it?
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:02 PM   #85
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Ok, 2 tires off. Essentially I'm following Barry's and Ron'a advice...

The first tire was the original one that I took off due to the nail. Tire guys deemed it not repairable. That one came off last week and was removed using the ramp method. I had installed my spare where it came off last week.

The second tire was a good one. I bought a 3-ton floor jack and jacked the camper up by the axle (sears/craftsman). I only had a 2x4 for wood going between the axle and the jack and the wood crushed as I lifted. I lowered and removed the block and relifted directly by the jack's metal. I didn't like doing it, but I needed to make progress tonight.

The tires are being remounted and balanced now. I left the camper at home with the jack still supporting the axle. My 3-ton jack stand was too tall to fix under the axle. I may try putting it under the square metal box attached to the frame when I go to reinstall the wheels.

That's where I'm at. When I get home, I'll remount one of the tires tonight definitely. I hope to do both, but I'll likely be working in the dark.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:03 PM   #86
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I do believe we have hammered this one in the ground.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:11 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by bakken View Post

Just one quick question. You agreed with Turbs that jacking under the U-bolts was the way to go, but then post that I was wrong to suggest that?
Which is it?
Responded via PM to avoid meta-discussion here.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:13 PM   #88
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...
That's where I'm at. When I get home, I'll remount one of the tires tonight definitely. I hope to do both, but I'll likely be working in the dark.
YEA!! Congratulations! A new shade-tree mechanic is born!
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:16 PM   #89
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I had to adjust my brake shoes last week and my 2.5 ton floor Jack is not enough
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:18 PM   #90
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...but I'll likely be working in the dark.
Now for the instructions on using a trouble light.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:20 PM   #91
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I had to adjust my brake shoes last week and my 2.5 ton floor Jack is not enough
Either your jack is weak or you have a very heavy trailer.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #92
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Either your jack is weak or you have a very heavy trailer.
Yeah like 14 k heavy ! Lol
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #93
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Yeah like 14 k heavy ! Lol
Just right for a Chevy S-10.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:06 PM   #94
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Now for the instructions on using a trouble light.
Ok do we plug it in first, or do we turn the switch on first?
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:11 PM   #95
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Ok do we plug it in first, or do we turn the switch on first?
No, No, No, first you have to measure the distance from the outlet to the trailer to determine the correct size wire for the voltage drop. Then determine if the outlet is the correct amperage, after determining if it is wired in accordance with...
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:17 PM   #96
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I figured out the light. Mind you- there's no switch in it!

1 new tire is on. Spare is still on because I got chased inside by a storm.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:18 PM   #97
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Oh, and the guys at the tire shop were amazingly cool for me showing up 8 minutes before they closed. Like remarkably so. And, the checkout counter guy simply told me to tip the guys instead of charging me.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:28 PM   #98
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Don't forget to torque the lug nuts now and again after you pull it around 50-75 miles and repeat until the lug nuts do not move to guarantee the nuts are seated on alum wheels if you have them. Different than steel wheels which usually only require one torqueing.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:31 PM   #99
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not a huge fan of the harbor freight jacks, they are probably fine, but I don't feel good about them when I am working under stuff (BTW - never with just a jack, always with jackstands in place.)

Got a Sears nearby?
Craftsman Floor Jack Set: Tough, Stable and Always Ready at Sears
Buy Milwaukee floor jack and USA jacks for bottle jack. US made and high quality.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:54 AM   #100
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I have the standard equalizer on my Wildwood, so this would not apply to the OP. My wildwood weighs about 8000 loaded for camping.

I fabricated a saddle out of 1/4" steel to spread the load over the equalizer. This allows me to jack up one side completely without crawling under the trailer on a wet and rainy night to place a jack.
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