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11-09-2013, 11:51 AM
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#21
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho
I would put a jam nut on that just to be sure it did not move.
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The pad on the ground will prevent it from turning.
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11-09-2013, 11:57 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
The pad on the ground will prevent it from turning.
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I can see how well that works when moving down the road..
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2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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11-09-2013, 12:04 PM
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#23
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho
I can see how well that works when moving down the road...:
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I'll use the hitchpin in the cross shaft. Save the $ and easier.
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11-09-2013, 12:11 PM
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#24
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomjsas
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Didn't f1000Turbo make something like this recently?
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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11-09-2013, 12:14 PM
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#25
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
Didn't f1000Turbo make something like this recently?
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I think so, pretty easy to make, but you still have to secure it for transport. I like mine as it's easier and free!
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11-09-2013, 12:32 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Well in reality the holes are 1" apart so you have only a 1/4" difference between the landing gear.
1/4" is minimal imo.
I'm not sure how a 1/4" "really" effects your leveling.
Turbs
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This.
1/4 inch is nothing.
Where my trailers landing legs are there is a 1" difference from left to right still not a biggy but easy to compensate for.
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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11-09-2013, 12:44 PM
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#27
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
I think so, pretty easy to make, but you still have to secure it for transport. I like mine as it's easier and free!
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I really didn't understand your solution.
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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11-09-2013, 12:55 PM
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#28
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
I really didn't understand your solution.
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Unpin both legs, run the legs down further to level the trailer front to back, unpin the cross shaft to run the drivers side down to compensate for the slide on that side. If you know the slide sags that side more, you can just set the driver side leg an inch lower than normal or fine tune it with the cross shaft disconnected.
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11-09-2013, 01:07 PM
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#29
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
Didn't f1000Turbo make something like this recently?
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Yes I did.
Pictures will be available once installed.
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11-09-2013, 01:54 PM
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#30
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
I really didn't understand your solution.
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Bottom line, IMO, neither the adjustable leg or the cross shaft unpinning is necessary for leveling. 1" off in 8' is only problematic in building houses, not leveling rv.
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11-09-2013, 02:10 PM
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#31
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Bottom line, IMO, neither the adjustable leg or the cross shaft unpinning is necessary for leveling. 1" off in 8' is only problematic in building houses, not leveling rv.
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Its not even one inch.
If the holes are 1" centers.
He said 3/4" off.
So with one inch centers he'd one trully be 1/4" off.
Right?
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11-09-2013, 08:41 PM
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#32
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,499
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Again, its not the level that concerns me. Its the twisting of the front when I force it to level and the rear isn't level. That's my concern. Gonna see if opening curb side slide while still hitched will level the RV. If it does, I'll have to do that before unhitching.
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2018 Forester 3011 DS
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11-09-2013, 08:45 PM
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#33
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Suggest getting the trailer level on the wheels while hooked up, slide in, unhook and put all jacks down. Should be done that way and therefore no twist in the frame. If the slide side always sags, compensate on the wheels before unhooking.
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11-09-2013, 08:50 PM
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#34
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,499
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Yeah oc. That's what I've been doing. Put a little lift under drivers side wheels to compensate for sag. Just trying to find another way without pads under tires. It works tho.
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2018 Forester 3011 DS
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