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Old 05-23-2013, 10:20 AM   #11
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i think i would be putting some of those X chock between tire scissor jacks. That is a pretty steep incline, some kids playing around knock one of those little plastic tire chocks out and that thing is rolling out in the street. accident waiting to happen. Those x chocks are real nice for stabilizing the trailer when camping too.. i was amazed at the diff from just using the forward and back corner scissor jacks, to using those AND the "X" chocks..

sorry.. off topic on your issue
But a terrific observation.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:41 AM   #12
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It is difficult to see in this picture but I have the homemade wood stabilizing chocks installed between the wheel. Are these good enough or do I need "X" chocks? Trying to save a few buck if these will work.

Also is it possible to damage anything by over-cracking the jack? The stabilizers are up; more concerned about overloading the jack or damaging the frame.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:48 AM   #13
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It is difficult to see in this picture but I have the homemade wood stabilizing chocks installed between the wheel. Are these good enough or do I need "X" chocks? Trying to save a few buck if these will work.

Also is it possible to damage anything by over-cracking the jack? The stabilizers are up; more concerned about overloading the jack or damaging the frame.

I think you're good. You have the wheels double chocked with the orange chocks and your homemade ones between the wheels . You look level. The fridge should be ok. Have a nap.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:55 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the input. So far I love the Roo! I need to post some pictures this weekend with some of the new features. I will be spending the holiday prepping the camper as opposed to camping although, I plan at least one night of driveway camping!
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:08 AM   #15
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Heck, I thought you had a real problem until you showed the photograph..Put a concrete block under the lift at the front..or raise the TT wheels up about a foot..that will allow you to lower the nose level more..If I were to show you where we have a 270 Crusader 5'er parked, you would croak....the driveway is sloped a good 4 degress, from side to side at least 4 degrees, one side on on the concrete the other side in on grass..I have constructed a ramp for the lawn side the actually tilts toward the street uphill...I am within about a foot to being level all around...will see if I can find a photo..what you have now will work..





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Here is a photo of the condition. This is the only parking option available.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:12 AM   #16
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If you are concerned about the suspension you could put a wood block or a couple link blocks under the front wheel to equalize the weight between the axles, but I don't think you are hurting anything. It may be useful to put a little more blockage under the front jack to avoid using it at the end of its range. I know with landing jacks on 5er that it's a major no no to extend or retract the jacks to the end of their travel. Don't ask me how I know that, but I do know how to take one apart.

The mechanism on a front jack is probably similar to a landing jack so maybe a good caution.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:15 AM   #17
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Our dealer painted red warning strip's on the jack legs for the front on how low or high we can run the legs out...after that, the motor will blow a fuse...so far we have not had a problem..would be a good idea to paint yours as well...




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If you are concerned about the suspension you could put a wood block or a couple link blocks under the front wheel to equalize the weight between the axles, but I don't think you are hurting anything. It may be useful to put a little more blockage under the front jack to avoid using it at the end of its range. I know with landing jacks on 5er that it's a major no no to extend or retract the jacks to the end of their travel. Don't ask me how I know that, but I do know how to take one apart.

The mechanism on a front jack is probably similar to a landing jack so maybe a good caution.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:21 PM   #18
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...
Put a concrete block under the lift at the front..
Concrete blocks (like those sometimes used to build houses) are not good for this purpose. They will break. See other recent thread.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:30 PM   #19
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I have come close to running into this issue as well and always wondered how the "pros" do it. Sometimes we camp on spots that are off and can barely get the trailer off the hitch. Last week we had a spot where the front of the trailer had to be nearly on the ground to get it lever. That low to the ground, I could barely get the hitch off the car. Can you use the front stabs to temporarily hold it up while re-blocking or would this be a bad idea.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:03 PM   #20
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I have come close to running into this issue as well and always wondered how the "pros" do it. Sometimes we camp on spots that are off and can barely get the trailer off the hitch. Last week we had a spot where the front of the trailer had to be nearly on the ground to get it lever. That low to the ground, I could barely get the hitch off the car. Can you use the front stabs to temporarily hold it up while re-blocking or would this be a bad idea.
I had a similar problem as I can only get so much material under the wheel of the jack went I am hitched to the TV. Maybe I can get a foot for the jack that will give me a little more clearance. The geometry really works against me. I could not get the bars off the WD hitch in the driveway because I could not take the kink out that was loading the bars.

I though about building a ramp to level the camper wheels but I am afraid that it would start to pick up the TV and I will never get the hitch off!
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