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Old 06-20-2013, 08:07 PM   #41
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Oc- I believe your previous to last post contradicts what you just said and actually backed up what I said. What changed in the past couple minutes?
And how is that? A bolt, no doubt will fracture if turned 45° after it has reached its max specified torque.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:32 PM   #42
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I do believe a torq spec and a max bolt torq would be 2 completely different numbers. I have torqed bolts to the 450-500 ftlb range and that was spec. NOT BOLT MAX SPEC.
Besides the 1/8 turn was a hypothetical and you must have missed the other part of my post about corrosion or other variables that might give the idea of a false torq., and I believe I saw another post (that you posted) that backed up this idea by stating that you cannot check the torq by simply reversing it.

Man- I guess I have 2 much free time while camping since I keep arguing on here. Guess ill just go chase some kids and get off of here.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:47 PM   #43
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MillerTime, the 120 is the max on a 1/2" gr 8 bolt and 1/8 turn past that will fracture it. I'm out of here.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:04 PM   #44
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And again, I stated 1/8 turn TO get from 85 to the 120. But I guess somehow im still wrong since my statements are miss-read or not read at all.

Ps. I dont remember the studs being stated as 1/2" but my bad if I missed that.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:22 PM   #45
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Some videos on torque wrench use



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Old 06-20-2013, 10:28 PM   #46
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He mentions a torque stick on the second video and I looked it up.

Professional torque sticks, sockets, multipliers and extension bars

It is an interesting idea that uses a fixed resistance to torque extension that will twist at the specified torque rather than transfer the impact of the wrench to the nut.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:47 AM   #47
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Torque sticks are a nice addition to the tool box. I personally don't use them, probably due in part to an "ASE Certified Mechanic" (that's what the patch on his sleeve said) at Sears, years ago who snapped a stud on my 4 lug import car. A torque wrench is MY friend.

Besides, my DW would probably should me in the back side if I bought anymore tools. Lol.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:03 AM   #48
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My issue with the "torque sticks" is:
They are supposed to bend at a set rating. However, there is nothing, that I see, to keep them from over tightening a bolt/nut.

Just because you use an 85 foot-pound setting doesn't mean the 750 foot-pound impact gun will stop at 85.

I had a "professional" wheel and tire tech replace some tires for me and pounded the lug nuts on with one of these "guaranteeing" that they were right. That came back to haunt him as a few days later I need to check the brakes and broke off 2 studs while trying to remove the wheel.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:54 AM   #49
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My issue with the "torque sticks" is:
They are supposed to bend at a set rating. However, there is nothing, that I see, to keep them from over tightening a bolt/nut.

Just because you use an 85 foot-pound setting doesn't mean the 750 foot-pound impact gun will stop at 85.

I had a "professional" wheel and tire tech replace some tires for me and pounded the lug nuts on with one of these "guaranteeing" that they were right. That came back to haunt him as a few days later I need to check the brakes and broke off 2 studs while trying to remove the wheel.
Torque sticks work good (and we use them), IF you use them correctly and as intended.

You are correct about the 750 pound gun overtorquing. The sticks we use are meant to only be used with a 350-400 ft lb range impact gun.

An air impact gun is also affected by incoming air pressure, which is 90 psi for most 1/2 inch guns to achieve their rated specifications. You also have to take into account air hose length in achieving the 90 psi into the impact gun.

You also do not just keep hammering with the sticks, assuming that the stick will keep the fastener from being overtorqued. You watch the fastener, while applying the torque stick and you will see when it quits turning...so to stop applying the impact gun.

So, to correctly use the torque sticks, you need to have the correct air pressure going to the correct impact gun (for the sticks being used).....and the know how of when to stop the impact gun........and it starts at the top of the management chain. If the boss doesn't know how to do it right, then there's a slim chance the employees do either.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:05 AM   #50
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Very good explanation west monroe tire.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #51
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Very interesting conversation on Torque and the art of torqueing.

1. a usually metal collar or neck chain worn by the ancient Gauls, Germans, and Britons
2. a turning or twisting force
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:57 PM   #52
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my torque wrench tops out at 120 and they were tighter than that. I got the unit in January, but I bought it off of the lot then, so it may and probably was sitting awhile before that.

None of this is making any sense to me. I am not inclined to mess with the stock situation till I change something for another reason, like tires or whatever.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:31 PM   #53
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my torque wrench tops out at 120 and they were tighter than that. I got the unit in January, but I bought it off of the lot then, so it may and probably was sitting awhile before that.

None of this is making any sense to me. I am not inclined to mess with the stock situation till I change something for another reason, like tires or whatever.
Just a question, if your wrench tops out at 120 how do you know they were tighter? Reversing a ratchet type torque wrench and loosening a bolt/nut does not give you the initial tightening torque. Also, if it was sitting on a lot for several months, there is rust/corrosion to consider.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:59 PM   #54
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At past 120 nothing budged, no creaking, no movement, no nothing. Again, the question is what do I gain at this point disturbing the stock wheels and bolts? They are all above 85ftlbs. If I remove them now, I can't retorque them cause you say they are stretched and they have to be replaced. The wheels have not falled off yet.

I am guessing that FR tightened the crap out of these wheels. they weren't the right size in the first place (covered in an earlier post) and they had to get me a set of new load stickers.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #55
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At past 120 nothing budged, no creaking, no movement, no nothing. Again, the question is what do I gain at this point disturbing the stock wheels and bolts? They are all above 85ftlbs. If I remove them now, I can't retorque them cause you say they are stretched and they have to be replaced. The wheels have not falled off yet.

I am guessing that FR tightened the crap out of these wheels. they weren't the right size in the first place (covered in an earlier post) and they had to get me a set of new load stickers.
Didn't say they were stretched, I am pretty sure wheel studs are gr 9, not gr 8 and a gr 9 bolt will take 141lb/ft. I would imagine the reason you couldn't move them is rust/corrosion, not from over torqueing. I would not replace them. A 1/2" wheel stud can be torqued to 90#-120#, that's why I set my wrench to 105# or 110#.

Remember, you can finger tighten a nut on a bolt and let it sit out in the weather a few weeks and you will have to use 2 wrenches to loosen it just because of rust/corrosion.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:37 PM   #56
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So should I mess with them or wait till I have a reason? What is the risk of a bolt or stud snapping given the stock situation here.

Per FR, I checked to see they were not loose by making sure that they were above 85ftlbs, so I fullfilled that bargain. When I do anything to the wheels, I will check and make sure they are torqued correctly.

what kind of lubricant do you use on these studs, prior to putting bolts back on?
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:44 PM   #57
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I'm about torqued out!

You fellows are as bad as the weight police!
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:44 PM   #58
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So should I mess with them or wait till I have a reason? What is the risk of a bolt or stud snapping given the stock situation here.

Per FR, I checked to see they were not loose by making sure that they were above 85ftlbs, so I fullfilled that bargain. When I do anything to the wheels, I will check and make sure they are torqued correctly.

what kind of lubricant do you use on these studs, prior to putting bolts back on?
Just whatever grimy dirt is on my hands at the time.
I don't think they should be lubricated.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:48 PM   #59
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Just whatever grimy dirt is on my hands at the time.
I don't think they should be lubricated.
X2.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:48 PM   #60
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You fellows are as bad as the weight police!
Go back to sleep!
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