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Old 06-20-2013, 05:33 PM   #31
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I'll bet we have a few in the garage. Thanks. I crimped a few using pliers and a piece of towel. They will probably fall of within a few years.

My son was enlisted Air Force LoadMaster on C-130 for four years, then college, ROTC, Flight School and was AC on KC-10. Now he is flying from the desert, chair-borne. He loved the C-130.
Which unit? Schenectady or Niagara? If Niagara, I, or one of my students, might know him. PM me.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:40 PM   #32
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Torque must be "set" while turning. So if they were over torqued you will need to loosen them to re-tighten to spec.
if they ain't broke, why fix em? I personally think I will wait till I change tires or something before I mess with them. I understand the theory tho.

My son helped me work on the brakes on my sailboat trailer several years ago, and while towing back to storage, I watched one of my wheels pass me on the the wrong side of the road. limped on to the storage lot and had to replace the drum AND wheel. Now I double check them.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:54 PM   #33
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OK, so I'm studying that diagram from the FR Owner's Manual that Herk posted. I'm assuming that the torque "stages" it refers to are when you're putting the tire back on the hub. When checking torque on a tire already on the hub, I should just set my torque wrench to 85 ft-lbs and see if the lugs move, right?
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:58 PM   #34
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Torque must be "set" while turning. So if they were over torqued you will need to loosen them to re-tighten to spec.
Please NOTE: If they have been over-torqued, they may have exceeded the proof strength of the bolt and theoretically should be replaced. Once the bolt has been stretched, it will not return to the original length or strength.
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:13 PM   #35
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OK, so I'm studying that diagram from the FR Owner's Manual that Herk posted. I'm assuming that the torque "stages" it refers to are when you're putting the tire back on the hub. When checking torque on a tire already on the hub, I should just set my torque wrench to 85 ft-lbs and see if the lugs move, right?
Doc
The torque depends on the size of the bolt and whether the wheel is steel or aluminum. Attached is a chart for alum. wheels. I set torque wrench to 105lb/ft and make it click twice on each nut.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Flagstaff TT Alum Wheel torque specs.pdf (311.4 KB, 33 views)
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:20 PM   #36
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so now I have to replace all my bolts because FR overtorqued them... that will be an interesting warrantee claim...
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:45 PM   #37
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so now I have to replace all my bolts because FR overtorqued them... that will be an interesting warrantee claim...
I doubt that the extra 1/8th of a turn to get from 85ftlb to 120 would stretch a bolt to the point of replacement. Besides the fact unless you just got it from the factory in the past month or so you may have a little corrosion or something else contributing to the extra feeling of over torque.

But good luck with the claim if you pursue it!
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:49 PM   #38
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so now I have to replace all my bolts because FR overtorqued them... that will be an interesting warrantee claim...
Only if they agree they were over-torqued. A 1/2" fine thread gr 9 bolt(not gr8) will take 141 max on dry threads.

If your wrench will only go to 120lb/ft, I doubt if it is very accurate at that setting. You cannot verify the torque by loosening it. I don't know how you would go about proving they were over-torqued by the factory either.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #39
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I doubt that the extra 1/8th of a turn to get from 85ftlb to 120 would stretch a bolt to the point of replacement...
1/8 turn could very well exceed proof strength, that's 45° which is a bunch.

Take any bolt and torque it to max torque for that type & size and then go another 45° and see what happens.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:59 PM   #40
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Oc- I believe your previous to last post contradicts what you just said and actually backed up what I said. What changed in the past couple minutes?
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