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Old 04-06-2011, 04:58 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by flyinguy68 View Post
Someone certainly correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I once came across some nifty looking devices that would be great for tandem axle trailers, such as using a ramp or a rocker to push or pull the non-flat tire(or axle) off of the ground, and thus also elevating the the wheel that needs the work to be done. Sure would beat wrestling with a jack. I'll have to see if I can find a link for what I saw.
Is this what you are talking about, E-Z Jack....I bought it at Camping World for $50 bucks. I have had it for 11 years and used it one time and that was to change out the front axle on my camper.
You are right it is easy to use but it's best to have someone watch as you back up or pull forward on it. With this there is no need to carry extra boards or other jacks which adds to the weight and takes up space in the campers storage area.....All in what works for you.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:04 AM   #12
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Trailer Tire Facts - Discount Tire

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how...a-trailer-tire

http://www.ehow.com/how_7338181_repa...e-trailer.html


As you can see plugs; regardless of type are not recommended.

Since you planned on replacing those tires anyway, I would not go through the hassle of demounting; internal patch; remounting; spin balancing; and then replace them anyway.

Additionally, there is no guarantee the patch will work if not done in a shop with the correct tools. With a new or newer tire and you go with patching, take it to a tire place. If you tear up the bead removing the tire from the rim it will be destroyed.
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:42 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by camper_Lucy View Post
This thread and your link has got me thinking about dumping the wood pile I'm carrying to level the motorhome. Two or three of your item is a little pricey for me at $72. What do you think if these at 24 bucks? Not sure what my gross weight is off hand, is 5000lb a wheel in the ballpark?

Andersen Rapid Camper Leveler and Wheel Chock Andersen Trailer Jack,Wheel Chocks AM3011
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:50 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Trailer Tire Facts - Discount Tire

How to Repair a Trailer Tire | DoItYourself.com

How to Repair a Tire on a Trailer | eHow.com


As you can see plugs; regardless of type are not recommended.

Since you planned on replacing those tires anyway, I would not go through the hassle of demounting; internal patch; remounting; spin balancing; and then replace them anyway.

Additionally, there is no guarantee the patch will work if not done in a shop with the correct tools. With a new or newer tire and you go with patching, take it to a tire place. If you tear up the bead removing the tire from the rim it will be destroyed.
They may not be recommended, but they work and work well, just as well as a internal patch. You don't have to use it as a permanent fix if you don't want to, but why would you pay extra for somebody to come to you and fix your tire when you can throw a plug in it and drive it to them? It doesn't hurt anything, the tire can still be patched from the inside just the same.

We have a enclosed car trailer that weighs almost 20,000 Lbs when loaded and we run Goodyear G614 tires that run at 120 PSI. 3 of the 4 tires have been plugged for over 3 years and not one problem.

Like I said, if it's not your thing you don't have to use them as a permenant fix, but having them in your emergency road side kit is a good idea.
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:52 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by rockwood06 View Post
Is this what you are talking about, E-Z Jack....I bought it at Camping World for $50 bucks. I have had it for 11 years and used it one time and that was to change out the front axle on my camper.
You are right it is easy to use but it's best to have someone watch as you back up or pull forward on it. With this there is no need to carry extra boards or other jacks which adds to the weight and takes up space in the campers storage area.....All in what works for you.
Yep, one of many different options. Mind you I have no experience with any of these.
Here's another type that lifts via the axle:
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by flyinguy68 View Post
Yep, one of many different options. Mind you I have no experience with any of these.
Here's another type that lifts via the axle:
It is important if you have a torsion axle you want to lift at the frame.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:12 PM   #17
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I have been following this thread with some interest. I am going to state a few facts from the tire industry side, more for an informational thing than to argue with anyone. This can apply to your trailer or tow vehicle tire.

1.Tire manufacturers adhere to what is called RMA (Rubber Manufacturers Association) guidelines for repairing tires. The RMA procedure consists of applying a patch on the inside and a filler to the hole on the outside. You do BOTH, not just one. When you use the filler material, it is not a push-in plug, but rather where you drill the damaged area out and use a corresponding sized filler insert. We use what is called a patch insert, which consists of the patch attached to the insert. They are applied from INSIDE the tire.

You may see this referred to in terms such as "Industry approved", "RMA Accepted", "Industry Accepted", "Properly repaired" and such. They all mean that it is the RMA way. Here is a link to it, which most all tire manufacturers are a member of.

RMA: Tire Repair

2. When you just put a patch, or stick a plug from the outside then you are doing what all the RMA tire manufacturers call an improper repair. This voids your tire warranty. Any separated tire that comes in to us, that is the first thing we have to look for, is a improper repair. If it has it, then it is not warrantable under the tire manufacturers warranty. Here are a few excerpts from Goodyear and Bridgestones warranties. You can look at any tire manufacturers warranty and they all read practically the same. You should be able to go out to your vehicle and pull the one that came with it, and see for yourself. Look at the "What is not covered" section. Some will even state that the warranty is void.

Goodyear warranty

Irregular wear or damage due to mechanical condition of the vehicle,

improper inflation, overloading, high-speed spin-up, misapplication,
misuse, negligence, racing, use of tire chains, improper mounting or
demounting, improper repair, wreck, collision or fire.
• Road hazards (includes, but not limited to, punctures, cuts, snags,
impact breaks, etc.).
• Any tire that, after leaving a factory producing Goodyear tires, has


Bridgestone Warranty:

D. Contamination or degradation by petroleum

products or other chemicals, fi re or other externally
generated heat, or water or other material trapped
inside the tire during mounting or infl ation.
E. Improper repair. Improper repair voids this
Limited Warranty.
F. For RFT tires only, improper



3. I know that some people use plugs and never have problems, and that is great......as you are the lucky ones. However, I see the unlucky ones on a daily basis. I see lots of tires ruined because of this. I try to explain it like this.

A tire is made up of plies, some steel, some cord. You can take a newpaper or magazine and visualize it. Put four pages together (this is our tire plies) and then stick a pencil (this is our plug) thru the four pages. leaving the pencil in it. Look at where the pencil is coming thru the last page. Air is going to try to push it's way up past the pencil/plug around the edges. If the air can't find an easy escape route straight up, then it is going to push it's way thru the plies, horizontally.

Just pull a few pages of the newspaper apart slightly on the pencil, and you can imagine the air doing the same thing to a tire. We call this "separation", as the plies are now separated from each other. A separated tire is a junk tire and must be immediately removed from service.

Now, slowly remove the pencil, just enough so it is not pushing the bottom layer of paper out. You can push the paper flat. We would patch the inside of the tire, SEALING the tire from the inside so no air pressure can possibly work it's way thru the plies......... and have an insert in the hole itself, so no water, air, or dirt can get into the plies from the outside of the tire and damage or rust the plies more.

You will need BOTH, a repair that seals the inside and the outside, in order to properly repair a tire and keep your manufacturers warranty on the tire.

I don't ask that you take my word for it, but do the research yourself. Like I said, just about all vehicles will have a tire warranty included in the glove box, and that is a first place to start. By educating yourself, you may save yourself some grief down the road...........and keep someone like me from having to tell you "that's not covered under warranty, but I can sell you a new tire for $175".

You also will have the knowledge to not just let some tire jockey improperly repair your tire.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:15 PM   #18
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Bobby, thanks for chiming in here. I started to PM you to say "take a look at this thread", but decided against that, as I have done that too many times before.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:29 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper View Post
You don't have to use it as a permanent fix if you don't want to, but why would you pay extra for somebody to come to you and fix your tire when you can throw a plug in it and drive it to them?

Like I said, if it's not your thing you don't have to use them as a permanent fix, but having them in your emergency road side kit is a good idea.
He said he had a spare. I would rather have the spare on the camper and drive the flat to a repair place. The only "on road" flat I had destroyed the tire.

Having said all that; I do have a high end patch and plug kit in my roadside emergency box. I hope to never have to use it for a tire.

It DID come in very handy when we had guests over and the "blow up" bed had a pinch hole in it. I used an "inside the tire" patch to repair the hole in the mattress. Two weeks of every night use and still going strong. I will consider it a "permanent" repair now.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:37 PM   #20
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Bobby, thanks for chiming in here. I started to PM you to say "take a look at this thread", but decided against that, as I have done that too many times before.
LOL

Even if you don't want to take the time to properly repair a tire, there is another reason why you need to dismount the tire, even if you are going to plug it eventually.

If the tire has been run low or flat, then there is a possibility that the inside of the tire is destroyed. If you don't know this, and attempt to air the tire back up after just sticking a plug in it from the outside, then you are taking one mighty big chance that the tire may explode (either in your face or later down the road).

I won't even let my guys inflate a tire that a customer brings in without dismounting it first to check the inside. I make a lot of customers mad, cause we charge them for this extra step, but won't inflate it without it.

I have caught many tires with either broke beads (cause the customer mounted the tire himself and broke them)......or the tire shredded on the inside from the customer running it low/flat. Either one of these conditions could have killed/hurt us when we inflated the tire......if we hadn't checked first.

You have to ask yourself, is the chance your taking worth it? If you are just going to plug a tire without dismounting it, especially if it has been flat....then at least have the decency to make sure your life insurance is up-to-date, and your family is not standing around you.
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