NEW RV tire changeover ?

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by jeffnick

Is there a thread about folks who regret switching to LT's?

A few ! you'll find the LT guys and the only use ST guys . one thing I've heard from tire shops is LT's can get flat spots from sitting for months . personally i use ST tires. Always up a load rating or two from what the manufactures install . You'll also get the PSI guys that say if you up grade from stock the wheel won't handle the extra psi which always make me laugh !

[RRGuy55]

I just finished a 7300 mile cross country trip on the stock Castle Rocks. I had one wearing prematurely on the outside edge so I contacted Lionshead, took a couple of pix and filled out their form- They sent me a brand new tire and $30 to get it mounted... It’s not a tire problem but an alignment problem.. I have to get it in & have a shop take a look. The other 3 are fine. I just check the pressure regularly and keep my speed down.

[Airdale]

Tireman9
“Wondering about the experiences folks have had when they purchase a new RV.”

I don’t know what the OP is really asking here. So here are some of the hurdles that must be cleared for that sort of change to take place.

First, and most important, does the vehicle manufacturer offer an optional fitment for the vehicle being sold? (?)

Does the selling agent have the authority to change the vehicle’s tire placarding? (NO)

Will a change in tire size alter the vehicle enough to void the manufacturer’s vehicle warranty? (?)


This is how the standard reads for OE tire fitments by the vehicle manufacturer -- FMVSS 571.120, paragraph S10.3, The tires on each motor home and RV trailer at first retail sale must be the same size as the tire size on the labeling. – The only applicable change I can see there is from one brand to another. And, then there is the tire registration to consider.

I just can’t see a RV dealer risking their ties to a vehicle manufacturer over a tire change.

When getting tires with more load capacity, think valve stems. They are a weak link often overlooked. Steel valve stems with metal caps & seals are the most reliable.

[jtaylor1920]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

1. Did you ask/request the tires be changed?
2. If yes, did you change brand or size or both?
3. About how much were you charged?
4. If you asked, did any dealer you were shopping at refuse to do a changeover?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

1. Yes
2. Changed brand (Rainer to Sailun)
3. Free
4. No, they had no issues doing it

[spock123]

Originally Posted by MR.M

A few ! you'll find the LT guys and the only use ST guys . one thing I've heard from tire shops is LT's can get flat spots from sitting for months . personally i use ST tires. Always up a load rating or two from what the manufactures install . You'll also get the PSI guys that say if you up grade from stock the wheel won't handle the extra psi which always make me laugh !

I have at least thirty thousand miles on my G614 Goodyear, they still look new. I have took one trip to Alaska. I have had zero problems with my Goodyear LT tires. When I buy more tires for my Cedar Creek it will be G614. Buy what you like

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by spock123

I have at least thirty thousand miles on my G614 Goodyear, they still look new. I have took one trip to Alaska. I have had zero problems with my Goodyear LT tires. When I buy more tires for my Cedar Creek it will be G614. Buy what you like

That's right buy what you like ! use what makes you feel good and to heck with the rest

[spock123]

Originally Posted by MR.M

That's right buy what you like ! use what makes you feel good and to heck with the rest

X2

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Wondering about the experiences folks have had when they purchase a new RV.


It would help my study if you could reply to these questions:
1. Did you ask/request the tires be changed?
2. If yes, did you change brand or size or both?
3. About how much were you charged?
4. If you asked, did any dealer you were shopping at refuse to do a changeover?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hmmm using a Forum for Commercial purposes...

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by B and B

Hmmm using a Forum for Commercial purposes...

B and B
NOT AT ALL. I do not sell tires nor RVs nor do I have a parts store or inventory of accessories. I am listed as a "commercial" member because the moderators decided that because I was a Tire Engineer and wrote a blog on RV tires that was the catigory they wanted to put me in.

I am trying to collect facts as I have seen a number of posts where people make various claims on keeping OE tire or changing them or having the dealer change them before sale or the dealer refusing to change them Some have paid over $1000 for change over others have paid less than $100 and some nothing. What is the average price?

Looking forward to the data summary as it would save me time as I do this research.

Can you provide answers to the questions? With facts (numbers)?

I would like to be able to answer questions on new tire change-over


Does this answer your question on my motives?

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

When I bought this rig new
1. NO
2. N/A
3. N/A
4. Did not ask

Same here. As it worked out, my stock tires are rated to carry about 30% more than my trailer actually weighs. Only problem I've had is a nail I picked up in West Virginia. That tire was repaired (nail was near center of the tread) and is now the spare. Tires currently have about 20k miles on them over just under 2 years.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by MR.M

You'll also get the PSI guys that say if you up grade from stock the wheel won't handle the extra psi which always make me laugh !

Well...the laugh is on you!

[Big Shoe]

I did my research on tires. I decided the tire for my rig was the "E" rated 10 ply tire.
When I purchased my fifth wheel with the "C" rated tires the dealership sales manager and I had a lively conversation about tires. He finally conceded that I knew what I was talking about. All I wanted was a tire that was going to hold up and not leave me sitting on the side of the road with the side of my rig damaged.

[BriaBeck]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Well...the laugh is on you!

I'm curious about this... do you have proof?


I never realized that wheels were so fragile.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Well...the laugh is on you!

not sure . but am sure you mean laughing at YOU
PSI RATING IS IN DIRECT RELATION TO WEIGHT RATING !

[dustman_stx]

Just because you go up a load rating does NOT mean you have to increase tire pressure-nowhere near max, anyway. Many tire failures result from a puncture where the tire loses pressure, builds heat and then blows. Heavier load range tires are MUCH more resistant to punctures and are therefore much less likely to lose pressure and ultimately blow out. Thicker sidewalls are also less susceptible to damage from large potholes or curb strikes. We have an old Expedition I use to drive in our pasture regularly. This pasture is full of thorns. With LRC or P rated tires, you can pretty much bet on a trip to the tire shop for a patch every 10 trips out on average. With LRE, I don't recall ever having to have a flat fixed.

[babock]

Originally Posted by MR.M

not sure . but am sure you mean laughing at YOU
PSI RATING IS IN DIRECT RELATION TO WEIGHT RATING !

I think he meant the wheel rating. Some wheels are only rated up to 65 PSI.

[Big Shoe]

I also have a Tire Pressure Monitoring System I use because no matter how good your tires, a nail can take you out.

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by MR.M

My guess is the c tire that was on your unit was barely enough for the load of your tt what ever it is . my unit has a max of 9800 lbs came with d rated which maxed out the tire from the get go . seems the same for all rv use the bear minimum load tire and axles .

What you say appears to be true for the heavier trailers. At the lightweight end, I am impressed with the amount of reserve that the tires installed on the A-frames have. On my current A-frame, a 2019 HW model, FR installed 14" D range tires/wheels instead of the 13" my previous A-frame had. The extra ground clearance from the larger tires is welcome with the longer trailer. And the tires can carry over 4,000 lbs, while the trailer has a max gross weight of 3,350 lbs. And I gain further with the 400lbs on the tongue.

The OEM tires are Castle Rock, so I will be watching them carefully. On my previous A-frame, the tires were good for 3,400 lbs on a trailer that normally weighed about 2,760 lbs when towed (and had a max gross of 3,100 lbs). I went with the OEM tires for 5 years without issues.

Fred W

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by babock

I think he meant the wheel rating. Some wheels are only rated up to 65 PSI.

exactly if your wheel is stamped 65 psi instead of a weight then the wheel is good for the corresponding weight of a 65 psi tire . not because the wheel can't handle 80 psi but because the weight rating is maxed at 65 psi tire . which is usually a D rated tire.

[cadman99]

I have excellent results with Hercules tires - ON the truck and trailer