OK, here's a brake problem I need help with

[gmccarth1150]

I just picked up my new to me Shamrock Hybrid. I took it out to practice backing it up. All went well, but on my way back home I stopped at a red light and one wheel locked up on the TT. Once I unhooked the power to the TT it was OK, but after I hooked the power back up and pressed on the brakes, it locked up again. The dealer is sending me a new brake controller but I don't think that's it. Anyone have any ideas?

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by gmccarth1150

I just picked up my new to me Shamrock Hybrid. I took it out to practice backing it up. All went well, but on my way back home I stopped at a red light and one wheel locked up on the TT. Once I unhooked the power to the TT it was OK, but after I hooked the power back up and pressed on the brakes, it locked up again. The dealer is sending me a new brake controller but I don't think that's it. Anyone have any ideas?

Brake controller would affect both wheels, but it may be that the other wheel is out of adjustment and the brake is being applied, but not locking up. Either way, I would put a meter on the wiring going to each side and check for current. If the non lock up side has constant current(same as lock up side) I would blame the controller (or installation) and adjust the brakes equally.

[BarryD0706]

I think the fact that disconnecting the trailer made the wheel unlock says that the controller is bad. If the mechanism in the wheel is at fault, unplugging it wouldn't have freed the wheel. (Could have been a coincidence however.)

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

I think the fact that disconnecting the trailer made the wheel unlock says that the controller is bad. If the mechanism in the wheel is at fault, unplugging it wouldn't have freed the wheel. (Could have been a coincidence however.)

I agree, but if only one wheel is locking up, and it is the brake controller, there's a problem with the non lockup side of the camper. Either it doesn't have power to the brakes or it's out of adjustment.

[BarryD0706]

Originally Posted by ttrost65

I agree, but if only one wheel is locking up, and it is the brake controller, there's a problem with the non lockup side of the camper. Either it doesn't have power to the brakes or it's out of adjustment.

And I agree with that. Definitely more things to check into here.

[gmccarth1150]

Bye the way, there are 4 wheels on the camper, (21ss) and as far as I can tell it's only the one wheel. I've never had to deal with brakes on a TT before, so this is all new to me.
As more of a note, the brakes did feel a bit strange before this happened. I did alot of backing up before it happened, but I don't think that could have been it. Also, I went over a curb before it happend, but again, I don't see how that could effect it either.
Thanks for the input so far, it's given me things to think about. Once I get the new brake controller I'll install it and see what happens.

[AquaMan]

Makes even more sense that its not the controller. Some of these brakes are automatically adjusted by backing up and applying brakes. Perhaps that one wheel over adjusted, or was even a little tight to start. My recollection is that there is one wire coming from controller for activating all brakes. Why is only one being constantly energized, if it is the controller?

[Herk7769]

I am not sure how your brakes work, but the "generic" electric brake uses an electric magnet to grab onto the rotating part of the wheel. The more you press (up to the maximum gain set in the controller) on the brake pedal causes the controller to increase the voltage to the magnet pucks and increases its grip. This increases the braking force of the lever arm.

Then the rotation of the WHEEL acts ON the lever arm twisting the primary and secondary brake shoes into contact with the drum walls.

Lifting your foot off the brake pedal reduces the voltage being applied to the magnet and it starts slip reducing that brake force.

ONE brake locking up while the other rotates means the SAME voltage is causing more braking force on one wheel than the other.

This can happen for several reasons:

1) Grease on the magnet puck or brake shoes in the "not locking" wheel.
2) Down to metal on the shoes OR the puck in the "non locking" wheel
3) Incorrect brake assembly or broken part
4) So far out of adjustment that the brakes are not touching the drum even at full application in the "non locking" wheel.

I would pull the hubs.

[jkklops]

come on guys it is brand new why would you mess with it take it back to dealer and tell them to fix it

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by jkklops

come on guys it is brand new why would you mess with it take it back to dealer and tell them to fix it

Since the dealer is mailing him a brake controller, I assumed it is quite some distance to the dealership. It is also a used trailer ("new to me").

It is quite possible the brakes were assembled/adjusted improperly. NOT something a used camper dealer would check as long as they worked when the break away was pulled. "Locking up" is "working"; so is "just dragging."

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by jkklops

come on guys it is brand new why would you mess with it take it back to dealer and tell them to fix it

Yep, OP's first post said "I just picked up my new to me Shamrock Hybrid."
he did not say new. new to me means a used trailer.

[gmccarth1150]

Let me muddy the water a bit more. The drive home was 180+ miles and there were no problems. I did notice a grabbing issue when I drove the TT over to parking lot to practice with it. Oh, and it's a 2011 Shamrock, so it's about 2 years old.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by gmccarth1150

Let me muddy the water a bit more. The drive home was 180+ miles and there were no problems. I did notice a grabbing issue when I drove the TT over to parking lot to practice with it. Oh, and it's a 2011 Shamrock, so it's about 2 years old.

The possible causes have not changed. Too much controller gain for the camper weight and a bad (slipping) brake will still cause your symptoms.

[gmccarth1150]

Found the problem with my brake. I took the drum off and the brake pad had detached from the shoe and slide up to end the other brake pad and shoe. I've never seen a brake pad come off a shoe before, but I've only have experience with cars. So is this like a normal occurrence and does anyone know where is the best place to get replacements?

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by gmccarth1150

Found the problem with my brake. I took the drum off and the brake pad had detached from the shoe and slide up to end the other brake pad and shoe. I've never seen a brake pad come off a shoe before, but I've only have experience with cars. So is this like a normal occurrence and does anyone know where is the best place to get replacements?

Not real normal.
I get our trailer brakes from
Www.midwestwheel.com

You might find it easier and not much more money to replace the backing plate assembly , everything you need and bolt on.

Turbs

[rattleNsmoke]

X2 on the entire assembly. I found out the expensive way a few years back doing the brakes on my Jayco TT. The cost of shoes alone for Dexter axles was 75% of the cost of an entire kit with shoes, backing plate, and hardware.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke

X2 on the entire assembly. I found out the expensive way a few years back doing the brakes on my Jayco TT. The cost of shoes alone for Dexter axles was 75% of the cost of an entire kit with shoes, backing plate, and hardware.

[h20ski]

I just last week ordered Dexter Nev-R-Adjust assy for $6.00 more than manual adjust brake assy.

[gmccarth1150]

OK, so I've been looking at brake assy, how do I tell which one I need?