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Old 03-29-2016, 04:37 PM   #1
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overheating? slows down on a grade!!

Hello Everyone,

I have a problem....

I'm not exactly sure where to post this, so if anyone wants to direct me elsewhere I'm all for it.

I'm a newby and RVing....

Well, at least in a DP MH.

As you see from my posts in the towing section, I've had some issues recently.

I thought I was overweight. Well, now I'm slowing down to about 40mph on small inclines and grades.

When driving at about 60 to 65 I'm good for awhile, but when I start long sloping up grades, it will begin to raise in engine temp and transmission temp. I usually let the engine run on cruise control and just let it slow down and go on its on. However, now it slows down to about 40 mph and even 35mph.

It also will over heat at the drop of a hat. I can be driving along watching temps and it will climb to 201 or 202 and then the engine light will come on and the engine stop light will come on. I usually just drop off cruise control and let it slow down and it will lower the temp.

So, after reading all I can find on line, am I correct in thinking this is a thermostat problem or is it something else.

Oh....let me clarify a few things....I initially thought it was a fuel filter so I had all the fluids and filters changes three weeks and three hundred miles ago. I keep a close watch on my coolant reservoir to make sure it stays full.

I'm at my witts end. Do you have any ideas?

Thanks for your time!!!!

Take Care!!!
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Old 03-29-2016, 05:43 PM   #2
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I think you need to elaborate a bit on just what vehicle you are talking about, what you are describing could be many things like you say th/stst, or a partially blocked rad and on and on.
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:08 PM   #3
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Diesel engines are fussy.

When was the last time it was serviced?
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:46 PM   #4
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Sorry forgot to mention the set up we have.


Its a 2011 Coachmen CrossCountry 401FK with a Cummins 340 HP and 2500 Allison six spead. We bought it new and now have 16K miles on it. We just had it serviced in San Antonio changing all the fluids and filters....hope this helps.


Thanks for your time!!!!
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:00 PM   #5
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IMO which isn't worth much, I think you have a charge air cooler that could be dirty. Also check the radiator. Thermostat could be an issue also. Also, if the cooler was recently changed, you could have air in the cooling system. The Cummins should have one or two bleeders to bleed air from the cooling system.
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Old 03-30-2016, 12:57 PM   #6
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Also check radiator fins for dirt, as some of the Cummins engine breather tubes dumped just behind the rad. The fan blows oily fumes into it causing dust to block it. If that is the prob, extend the tube to the bottom of the rad...also take it out of cruise on long grades, or downshift to keep the eng. RPMs up.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:38 PM   #7
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Overheating can be due to several factors, including the way you drive.

Whenever driving up a long grade, first take it out of cruise control. On a DP, you generally want to be in a lower gear that allows you to keep your RPM pretty near the top of the RPM range. The reason is that you want to keep your engine driven fan speed to be at a maximum for cooling. As the grade increases and your speed slows, you may need to continue downshifting to maintain a high RPM. If the motorhome still overheats, first slow down and shift again to a lower gear. The lower speed reduces the heat produced and may allow you to continue. If it is still overheating, its time to pull over and let it idle until the temps are under control. Do all of this before it gets into the red, but you must pull over if you are in the red immediately.

Most cooling problems are due to dirty radiators and charge coolers. Your charge cooler is the cooler for the air compressed by your turbocharger. Particularly with rear radiators, which are preferably cleaned from the engine side, these are hard to get clean.

Ideally, you use some simple green heavy duty cleaner, spray down the radiator from both sides, and rinse it off using a hose. I found that I got better success by using a low pressure setting on my pressure washer and washing it from the back. Be very careful not to get to close to the fins with a pressure washer because the get bent easily.

Other problems can be due to a bad belt, water pump, thermostats, and idling pulley. However, begin with a good cleaning, good driving technique, and accept that these things may get hot on long grades.

Of course, keep an eye an your tranny temp as well.

Charlie
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Old 03-31-2016, 12:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredchief View Post
Sorry forgot to mention the set up we have.


Its a 2011 Coachmen CrossCountry 401FK with a Cummins 340 HP and 2500 Allison six spead. We bought it new and now have 16K miles on it. We just had it serviced in San Antonio changing all the fluids and filters....hope this helps.


Thanks for your time!!!!
I've been driving diesels (mostly Detroit Diesels) for leisure and professionally for over 50 years and it sounds an awful lot like the turbo hose has become disconnected. I've had this happen countless times and those are the symptoms. It's a cheap and easy fix if that's what it is. Putting the hose back on the engine and tightening up the hose clamp often is all that has to be done. I'm not familiar with that particular Cummins so forgive me if I'm all wrong.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:37 AM   #9
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Just a couple of thoughts; Check the fan clutch. When these go bad, the fan speed will not increase on demand. I do not know if your engine fan has a clutch or not. It may be a direct drive.

Also, when it happens, try turning the Air conditioner off, and turn the heater on, with fan on high. The AC increases load on the engine, and produces heat. The AC condenser coil may be right in front of the engine radiator. Turning the heater on, will act like another radiator, removing heat from the coolant.
Doing these things may make it a little less comfortable in the drivers seat area, but it will certainly give you clues as to what is happening, and will help a mechanic diagnose the problem if that becomes necessary.

Good luck.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredchief View Post
Sorry forgot to mention the set up we have.


Its a 2011 Coachmen CrossCountry 401FK with a Cummins 340 HP and 2500 Allison six spead. We bought it new and now have 16K miles on it. We just had it serviced in San Antonio changing all the fluids and filters....hope this helps.


Thanks for your time!!!!
Take it to the dealer you should be still in Warranty and tell them your overheating. Could be all of the above or non of the above.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:01 AM   #11
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IF the turbo hose has become disconnected, you may have bigger issues than overheating. You will be feeding unfiltered air into your diesel engine and that can destroy it in a big hurry. ASK ME HOW I KNOW--NO DON'T!!!!
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:37 PM   #12
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Hello Everyone,


Here's an update to our story....


We washed the radiator down with simple green and water and left Alpine driving to Odessa where we had an appointment to get it checked out at a Freightliner service shop.


The wash job made a tremendous improvement on the way she ran!!!
So obviously, that was PART of our problem.


However, the engine was still running hot.
We showed up at the Freightliner shop the next morning and they forgot we were coming! after two hours of waiting around, they told us they just were not going to be able to get us in that day! Then they told us they really don't work on RV's....they are primarily a TRUCK repair facility.


Well, I quickly bowed out and complemented them for doing such great business with Big Trucks and even told them I was glad they were doing such good business.
They referred me to a Freightliner shop in Lubbuck, Texas that works on RV's.


We left and drove one block away to a Cummins Shop.


We only waited for about an hour when they took us into the shop and started working on it.


They hooked up a computer and started checking the codes. After some time, they discovered the culprit.


It was a CAC HOSE CLAMP!!!!!!


The spring loaded hose clamp busted loose. The mechanic brought it to me and explained what happened. He replaced it and then rechecked everything.
They even took us out on the highway for a test drive.


We were there about three and half hours total. The bill shows the clamp cost $15.10 and the labor was $448.00


We joined the Cummins Power Club on the spot and they gave us a discount on the entire bill. The Power Club membership is $19.95 a year and when they applied the discount for being a member the bill dropped to $418.64.


The cost of the membership already saved us money!!


So, here's my take on this whole affair...
1. Make sure your radiator is clean.
2. Talk to the Freightliner shop and ask them if they work on RV's.
3. Find a Cummins shop to do work on your Cummins Engine.
4. Join Cummins Power Club.
5. Learn as much as you can from the pro's on this website....it was very helpful!!! and we appreciate everything and all your help!!!!!




The RIG runs great now!!!! not overheating, not running hot, gets great gas mileage, and drives like its supposed to.


We took Blue Ox up on their offer to put a base plate on our new car so we are now in Pender, NE where they are building and installing a new base plate for free!!!


Thanks everyone for all your help and guidance!!!
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:55 PM   #13
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Chief, that's awesome. So glad you were able to get it resolved and it was a quick and simple fix. Congrats,....now, go enjoy!
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