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Old 04-12-2015, 04:28 PM   #11
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If it turns out that the problem was over torque and the same guy did all wheels I would be changing out all the studs just to be safe, you don't know if another is going to let go and you may not be so lucky next time. Just a thought!
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:30 PM   #12
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X 3 Oldcoot. Dealers never check torque, they just impact hammer them on. That could easily mean over torquing of 50 ft-lbs. No sense spending all that time on trivial matters such as torque.
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:37 PM   #13
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I would just order 24 new studs and nuts from Dexter and change them all. I would then not all them to use an impact wrench on them. Torque should be ~110lb/ft if they are 9/16" studs.

Good time to check all the bearings, repack them and replace the seals.
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Old 04-12-2015, 06:56 PM   #14
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Possible over torque but could also be loose studs. Anything new about the nuts? Look closely at the taper to see if they show that they made contact with the taper of the rim. IMO, those are the wrong studs. I am surprised that they have a hex pattern. Every hub I have seen, auto, truck, RV, tractor, etc have had a round head and are serrated to prevent turning when tightened.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiggerdad View Post
Possible over torque but could also be loose studs. Anything new about the nuts? Look closely at the taper to see if they show that they made contact with the taper of the rim. IMO, those are the wrong studs. I am surprised that they have a hex pattern. Every hub I have seen, auto, truck, RV, tractor, etc have had a round head and are serrated to prevent turning when tightened.
I think you are looking at the picture wrong, the hex part in pic is the wheel nut you can't see the stud base, its still in the hub. You can just barely see the stud base with the spline on one of the two studs in the picture .
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wana65stang View Post
I think you are looking at the picture wrong, the hex part in pic is the wheel nut you can't see the stud base, its still in the hub. You can just barely see the stud base with the spline on one of the two studs in the picture .
I think you're right.
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:53 PM   #17
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What type of camper is it if it's a key stone they gave a recall for this issue read about it @ rvdailyreport.com


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Old 04-30-2015, 10:35 PM   #18
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Have you ever did any work on THAT wheel/hub? Why I am saying that is because I had the same issue of sheared lug bolts years ago and the tire passed me going down the road. Had a flat in the early fall one year and put on the spare (all the rims were the same) camped several times in the fall and spring. I forgot to re torque the lug nuts and I am 100 % sure that several backed off a little and let the tire 'wobble' and it ended up shearing off all the lug bolts. One of your lug bolts looks like it may have some thread damage. What does your rim look like? If some of the rim lug bolt holes are wallered out any, then your lug nuts were loose. Until I see more information, if may have been under torqued instead of over torqed.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:11 AM   #19
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Ok folks here is the latest update to my issue.
Thank you to Denise Davis at Forest River for her help. Forest River ended up replacing both axles, all four wheels and tires on the trailer. So after two and half months I am sitting at a campground checking out my 2012 Silverback 31B.
Also just an FYI warning, Dexter has stated that their axle torques are for steel wheels only that you need to go by the wheel manufactures torques for proper installment. I had downloaded there maintenance manual when I bought the trailer to keep up on care and since then they have changed the manual without letting anyone know. So make sure you periodically check up with manufactures specs.
Plus check Home | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) for any updates on manufacturers.
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