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Old 05-14-2013, 08:00 AM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Shaking while braking

Hello all,

I have a 2010 Wolfpup 17p. Last summer I took it from Florida (home) to Niagara Falls and when i got to Washington I noticed massive inner tire wear. The TT was bought brand new in 2011 and i used it a handful of times locally so it did not justify the amount of wear the tires had. I fortunately noticed before I had a blow out and ruined my trip. To make a long story short Forest river replaced my axle with a better one b/c they said that the current one is rated for only 3500 lbs which is not enough for the trailer plus accessories. All work was covered under warranty but ever since the axle swap when I brake the trailer shakes the car violently just before coming to a complete stop. Nothing changed on my car before the axle swap and my BC was set to 4. I had to turn it down to .5 to get it to stop shaking. I'm leaving to California in about a month and need to get this fixed. Unfortunately I'm out of warranty so now its on me for repairs. I'm handy with a wrench so I figure I would ask and get a few pointers. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
(BTW TV is a 2003 Nissan Murano AWD, it does not shake upon stopping when not towing.)

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Old 05-14-2013, 08:05 AM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
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Would suspect warped drums. Pull them and inspect everything. Take the drums to a shop and have them put on a brake lathe. Might have a leaking seals and they leaked grease on the shoes also.

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Old 05-14-2013, 08:13 AM   #3
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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That was my first guess, they are suppose to be brand new. I had to wait three days for the setup to get shipped to my location. Is it possible they came warped from the factory? I'm not to familiar with drum brakes. Its been years since I have changed them. I never even had to turn any ever. Its always been on old car never on trailers. Is it the similar to a cars? Remove wheel get a big hammer or find the screw that unlocks that drum? Thank you for the quick reply.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:43 AM   #4
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Location: Greenwood, In
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On mine the drum and hub are one piece, so no big hammer you have to pull the pin and castle nut. Hope you find your issue.
Jim & Debbie England
Do you have Gas? 2015 F350 6.2L CCLB DRW 4.30 axle. 2012 Yellowstone Ridgeline 34RLT Fifth Wheel
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:58 AM   #5
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ok, I'll be pulling it apart this weekend. I will check my brake controller first since its easiest to test. Thanks for the replies.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:53 PM   #6
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i would also agree it's likely a warped hub. but for the cost of turning a hub, you can get a brand new one ($55 or so?). I would put new backing plate/magnet in there too. Running an old grooved magnet (that pulls the the lever when energized to spread the shoes apart) will just make for weak brakes as you will have grooves trying to mate to a nice smooth surface on the hub (the magnet grabs the hub where the wheels studs go through).

should be able to jack the trailer up and spin the wheels after turning the the adjuster dial to tighten the brakes.. as you begin dialing it in, keep spinning the tire.. that may start to show whats what, or if you suspect one drum, loosen the adjuster a bunch on that one, then ensure the others are adjusted correctly and test drive (well, test brake..). not sure how it will react with 2 working on one side and 1 on the other so don't set the controller to a high setting.

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