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Old 09-08-2012, 09:41 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by dunnnc

I think the best way is to align the serrations and install a small stack of washers and turn the nut around backwards (Flat toward washers) and pull the stud in. Would not use a hammer to install a new stud.
This is exactly how a dealer would do it .
As stated in other posts.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:52 AM   #12
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Tks. Boy, this generated a lot of good replies, that's why this forum is so helpful.

John
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:17 PM   #13
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It might be the lug nuts that are stripping - not the lugs.

On my TT my lug nuts were getting hard to turn - it seemed like the lugs or lug nuts were stripping. 2 or 3 of the lug nuts were difficult to get on or off. And when torquing them down, they felt like something was stripping. In my case it was the lug nuts - they were stripping when I torqued them to 100 ft-lbs (the required torque).

I picked up replacement lug nuts at the auto parts store for $1.50 each and they just went right on - they screwed right on by hand and when torquing them down there was no "squishiness" to it, like I experienced with the original lug nuts.

I guess the original lug nuts were made of real soft steel. The lugs themselves were fine - much harder steel I guess.

Ed
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:18 AM   #14
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Striped Thread

Took the tire off to see how I can remove the stud. Looking at replacement parts diagram. How is the hub removed to gain access to the stud so it can be removed. Looks like the stud also goes through the bolt circle at the back. I see four nuts there.
Going to purchase the stud and wheel nut at NAPA this Friday.
John
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by JohnBlair View Post
Took the tire off to see how I can remove the stud. Looking at replacement parts diagram. How is the hub removed to gain access to the stud so it can be removed. Looks like the stud also goes through the bolt circle at the back. I see four nuts there.
Going to purchase the stud and wheel nut at NAPA this Friday.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
You will have to pull the grease cap off, remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut, remove the nut and carefully pull the hub off a little and catch the outer bearing, then carefully pull the hub completely off the spindle. Place the hub on a board and take a hammer and drive the damaged stud out. Insert the new stud and align the serrations with the serrations in the hub and place about 1//2" of flat washers on the stud and turn the new nut around so the flat side starts on the stud and tighten the nut to draw the stud into the hole. Remove the nut and washers and replace the hub.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:30 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBlair
Took the tire off to see how I can remove the stud. Looking at replacement parts diagram. How is the hub removed to gain access to the stud so it can be removed. Looks like the stud also goes through the bolt circle at the back. I see four nuts there.
Going to purchase the stud and wheel nut at NAPA this Friday.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
Remove the drum via the cotter pin and the axle nut .
Once drum is removed lay it flat on the ground and tap the stud out.

Turn over and repeat to knock stud in.
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:13 PM   #17
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Tks. I went down to the local garage and they told me the same
John
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:47 PM   #18
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Striped Thread

It was so simple, I felt pathetic. Anyway, now I know.
Tks. again for all the intelligent help. The only stupid question is the one NOT asked.
John
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:55 PM   #19
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When I first got our trailer, I "chased" the threads on both the studs and nuts with my tap/die set. I also did my five spare lug nuts. That's forty-five threadings in all. It's a Blue Point (Snap-On) set, so I'm confident it's accurate.

I was amazed at how large a percentage were "tight" when using either a die or tap on them.

A star wrench now whirls them on and off with ease, and I feel good that the torque wrench can do its job with a higher degree of accuracy.

Pop
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:24 PM   #20
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congrats ! glad you got it !
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