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09-07-2012, 10:09 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Canoeing Capital of Canada
Posts: 70
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Stripped thread (Solved)
While changing a tire today, I had trouble getting the nut (stud) started. One was difficult turning. I took it off and it appears I stripped the bolt. Called the dealer and these bolts are pressed fit, so can't fix it myself. Have to take it to a Dealership to repair. Now only four studs on the wheel. I suspect it would be safe to travel with four studs, providing I check them frequently. There are tandem wheels on the WJ. These studs appear to be of very poor quality. I have never had this happen before and I've changed a lot of tires. Is this a common problem?
John
2013 Windjammer 3008W
2006 Silverado 5.3 with tow package
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09-07-2012, 10:19 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,327
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If you have access to the proper die nut, you could try to clean the threads up with it...nothing to lose!
Dave
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Nights camped in 2013 - 55, 2014 - 105, 2015 - 63
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09-08-2012, 04:26 AM
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#3
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ARLO
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: N Chili, NY
Posts: 910
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If they designed it with five, it needs five and not four. Thread chasers work fine unless the threads are very bad. You may not be able to get the proper torque on the stud after you re-cut the threads. You could always take the hub into your local garage and have them replace the stud. This doesn't necessarily have to go to a dealer.
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09-08-2012, 05:05 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 51
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wheel studs are easy to change, they are pressed into the brake drum
the old one will come out with a few hammer blows, install a new one using a lug nut and a couple of washers
thats how the dealer will change them
__________________
1998 Forest River 21rb
2003 Ford Windstar
2 bicycles and a 3 yr old husky
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09-08-2012, 05:11 AM
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#5
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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If you're capable of removing the drum from the axle then you can change the Stud yourself by knocking the old one out with a quick blow from a hammer. Once removed you simply draw the new stud in with a standard nut or drive it in from the backside with a hammer and punch.
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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09-08-2012, 07:15 AM
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#6
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87CrewDually
If you're capable of removing the drum from the axle then you can change the Stud yourself by knocking the old one out with a quick blow from a hammer. Once removed you simply draw the new stud in with a standard nut or drive it in from the backside with a hammer and punch.
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I think the best way is to align the serrations and install a small stack of washers and turn the nut around backwards (Flat toward washers) and pull the stud in. Would not use a hammer to install a new stud.
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09-08-2012, 07:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Albany, GA.
Posts: 1,359
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Depending on how badly damaged the threads are, there may be a couple of options: 1) You can buy a "thread file" at most auto parts shops, these are designed to fit into the threads of different sized bolts. These will file out only the damaged portion of the threads leaving any undamaged portion alone. 2) You could order a "chase nut" from companies such as "Fastenal", "Grainger", or "McMaster-Carr". A chase nut can be screwed onto the damaged threads and is designed to sort of "push" the damaged portion of the threads back into place, this is not a thread-cutting die. Actually DO NOT use a thread cutting die on a damaged bolt/screw as it will cut/remove metal to make new threads. Replacing the stud is the best thing to do, and can be done by most anyone. Google instructions on how to do this, I'm sure there are at least 9999 videos out there for this.
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09-08-2012, 07:54 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bracey Va, At Lake Gaston
Posts: 180
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I replaced all the studs on one wheel. Take the drum off and like stated before use hammer to remove old and nut with washers to install new. NAPA carries the exact stud. take one in for sample.
__________________
Bill And Theresa Perry, At Lake Gaston
2004 R Vision Trail Lite
2003 F 150 Super crew with 5.4 Tow package
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09-08-2012, 08:04 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Word of caution before (DIY),have a New double lip grease seal in (Hand) before you replace the (Drum-hub assy). The way the Alco E-Z lub axles are machined for the rear grease chanell there (Sharp) edges that will cut the seal,on &off! Also the cotter pin hole for the castleated nut is drilled off center for the grease chanell,this is totally diffrent from most pin holes. The cotter pin has to make a 45 to go thru the nut? This is on the (Larger W/J & V Lites. Studs must be replaced,do (NOT) run a Die on them! Also replace the stud nut with a New one. Stud install in done in a press when new,that is how I would replace them. Protect the bearings,front & back from the (Rust & Brake dust). Youroo!! 
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09-08-2012, 08:38 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,931
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Before you go to all the trouble/expense of removing a hub, there is a simpler and cheaper way. If just the tip end is boogered, we use what is called sav-a-stud. It is a hinged die that you place on the stud at the end nearest the hub/rotor, then back the die off and it fixes the boogered part.
Here is a video on it, and you can order just the individual dies, without buying a whole kit like we have.
Make sure you use a new nut, and don't try to reuse the old one on the stud after you repair it.
You can call Esco here:
http://www.esco.net/tire-changing-eq...2&cat=0&page=1
__________________
 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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09-08-2012, 08:41 AM
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#11
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dunnnc
I think the best way is to align the serrations and install a small stack of washers and turn the nut around backwards (Flat toward washers) and pull the stud in. Would not use a hammer to install a new stud.
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This is exactly how a dealer would do it .
As stated in other posts.
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09-08-2012, 08:52 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Canoeing Capital of Canada
Posts: 70
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Tks. Boy, this generated a lot of good replies, that's why this forum is so helpful.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
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09-08-2012, 08:17 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7
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It might be the lug nuts that are stripping - not the lugs.
On my TT my lug nuts were getting hard to turn - it seemed like the lugs or lug nuts were stripping. 2 or 3 of the lug nuts were difficult to get on or off. And when torquing them down, they felt like something was stripping. In my case it was the lug nuts - they were stripping when I torqued them to 100 ft-lbs (the required torque).
I picked up replacement lug nuts at the auto parts store for $1.50 each and they just went right on - they screwed right on by hand and when torquing them down there was no "squishiness" to it, like I experienced with the original lug nuts.
I guess the original lug nuts were made of real soft steel. The lugs themselves were fine - much harder steel I guess.
Ed
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09-12-2012, 10:18 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Canoeing Capital of Canada
Posts: 70
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Striped Thread
Took the tire off to see how I can remove the stud. Looking at replacement parts diagram. How is the hub removed to gain access to the stud so it can be removed. Looks like the stud also goes through the bolt circle at the back. I see four nuts there.
Going to purchase the stud and wheel nut at NAPA this Friday.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
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09-12-2012, 10:29 AM
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#15
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBlair
Took the tire off to see how I can remove the stud. Looking at replacement parts diagram. How is the hub removed to gain access to the stud so it can be removed. Looks like the stud also goes through the bolt circle at the back. I see four nuts there.
Going to purchase the stud and wheel nut at NAPA this Friday.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
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You will have to pull the grease cap off, remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut, remove the nut and carefully pull the hub off a little and catch the outer bearing, then carefully pull the hub completely off the spindle. Place the hub on a board and take a hammer and drive the damaged stud out. Insert the new stud and align the serrations with the serrations in the hub and place about 1//2" of flat washers on the stud and turn the new nut around so the flat side starts on the stud and tighten the nut to draw the stud into the hole. Remove the nut and washers and replace the hub.
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09-12-2012, 10:30 AM
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#16
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JohnBlair
Took the tire off to see how I can remove the stud. Looking at replacement parts diagram. How is the hub removed to gain access to the stud so it can be removed. Looks like the stud also goes through the bolt circle at the back. I see four nuts there.
Going to purchase the stud and wheel nut at NAPA this Friday.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
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Remove the drum via the cotter pin and the axle nut .
Once drum is removed lay it flat on the ground and tap the stud out.
Turn over and repeat to knock stud in.
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09-12-2012, 11:13 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Canoeing Capital of Canada
Posts: 70
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Tks. I went down to the local garage and they told me the same
John
2013 WJ 3008W
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09-12-2012, 11:47 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Canoeing Capital of Canada
Posts: 70
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Striped Thread
It was so simple, I felt pathetic. Anyway, now I know.
Tks. again for all the intelligent help. The only stupid question is the one NOT asked.
John
2013 WJ 3008W
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09-12-2012, 11:55 AM
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#19
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Too old to be too smart
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La La Land
Posts: 439
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When I first got our trailer, I "chased" the threads on both the studs and nuts with my tap/die set. I also did my five spare lug nuts. That's forty-five threadings in all. It's a Blue Point (Snap-On) set, so I'm confident it's accurate.
I was amazed at how large a percentage were "tight" when using either a die or tap on them.
A star wrench now whirls them on and off with ease, and I feel good that the torque wrench can do its job with a higher degree of accuracy.
Pop
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Terry 250RKS, perfect for the two of us and the pups.
2000 F-350 7.3L CC/LB 4WD Lariat 3.73's
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09-12-2012, 12:24 PM
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#20
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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congrats ! glad you got it !
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