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Old 08-28-2013, 10:03 AM   #41
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I ordered a "Tireminder" package, complete with all transmitters, a 100W booster, and 7 years of batteries, from Costco. My cost delivered to my door in Canada is about $330. I picked Costco due to their good price and excellent return policy should something go wrong. I priced them out in a couple RV places, and their costs are quite a bit more, and they are a hassle to return should it be necessary.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:18 AM   #42
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Windywest,

I would like to know if you had recently weighed your camper. Since (in most installations) the rear tires of the tandem carry more load than the from two, it is possible the tire was overloaded even at the maximum inflation pressure for a C range tire.

Also was there a reason you skipped two load ranges to E? I went up a load range to D (65 PSI) and have had no tire troubles (knock on wood) since. (From Carlisle C range to Marathon D range)
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBaron View Post
The Tire Traker site says that all 3 TPMS systems are made by the same (Chinese?) company.
Which three systems? Any preferences? I live overseas so I have to get it right the first time! (shipping costs are murder...)
I believe Tire Tracker, Tire Minder and Tyre Guard are the three. The difference is the initial cost & warranty. These seem to look different than other systems.

When was the last time you found a company honest enough to tell you about the source of the stuff they sell or that it was identical to others.

Can't comment of shipping.

The warranty is from a guy in the US.
check the youtube and here.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:51 AM   #44
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Tireman. That also looks exactly like my Hawkshead.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:54 AM   #45
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I was thinking of doing the same. (Going from a C to an E) with the thought that it may reduce sidewall flex and improve stability down the road. Downside? Maybe rougher riding?



Also was there a reason you skipped two load ranges to E? I went up a load range to D (65 PSI) and have had no tire troubles (knock on wood) since. (From Carlisle C range to Marathon D range)[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:00 AM   #46
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I was thinking of doing the same. (Going from a C to an E) with the thought that it may reduce sidewall flex and improve stability down the road. Downside? Maybe rougher riding?
The biggest downside I see is a very hard bouncy ride for your camper.
(broken dishes, open/loose cabinets, additional frame flexing - work hardened frame failures, sidewall cracks, slide shifting, ...)
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:59 AM   #47
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I went to load range E from C on the advice of the tire shop owner/manger, he said I could run them at 80 lbs, but recommended 65 due to the lighter weight of my camper approx 7200 dry. He also said he sold a lot of these tires and had never had any come back. I trust this guys advice, it's a small town, so anything negative or bad service reports get around quickly. I haven't weighed my trailer lately, but these tires are rated to carry over 2800 lbs at max inflation. Doing the math and having about 1200 in the truck box, that leave about 6000/4 or 1500 lbs per tire, dry weight, so I've got lots of spare capacity. I haven't gone all that far with them, but the 50 mile ride home seemed smooth and easy.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:17 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windywest View Post
I went to load range E from C on the advice of the tire shop owner/manger, he said I could run them at 80 lbs, but recommended 65 due to the lighter weight of my camper approx 7200 dry. He also said he sold a lot of these tires and had never had any come back. I trust this guys advice, it's a small town, so anything negative or bad service reports get around quickly. I haven't weighed my trailer lately, but these tires are rated to carry over 2800 lbs at max inflation. Doing the math and having about 1200 in the truck box, that leave about 6000/4 or 1500 lbs per tire, dry weight, so I've got lots of spare capacity. I haven't gone all that far with them, but the 50 mile ride home seemed smooth and easy.
You most likely have 4,000 pound axles on your camper and the frame is only rated for your GVWR. It does not matter how much "over capacity" your tires have.

If you run them at 65 PSI and the weight on them requires even less pressure you will only have center tread wear (over pressured) and no outer tread in contact with the road.

Each tire manufacturer has a pressure setting for their tire (based on the ACTUAL load on them) to ensure the full tread is in actual road contact.

The "Goldilocks" pressure for your actual tire load will give you optimum tread wear and tire life.

Jumping two load ranges (in my honest opinion) will of necessity cause your tires to be run over inflated for the load; result in uneven tire wear; a hard bouncy ride; and increased sway due to insufficient tread in contact with the road.

Obviously, your tire salesman had a different opinion.
(or he only had E rated tires in stock)
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:28 PM   #49
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Thanks for the info, and your assessment of the tire manger might be correct, but he did have a lot of LR E tires in stock, and didn't even offer a C or D. One of my RV buddies went from 16" LR E tires to LR G (14 ply) without any issues, in fact he swears by them and has put on several thousand miles. I will monitor the wear on my tires, but my own personal feelings are that at 65 psi and with about 800 lbs of propane, batteries, food, and camping stuff, the trailer should coast along pretty smooth, but I'll know more next week when we go out again for a 400 mile trip.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:58 PM   #50
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BTW Herk, We appear to have the same units (8526 RLWS), what does yours weigh when loaded up ? I guess the only thing I might have additional from stock is 4 batteries, a solar panel, transfer switch and inverter.
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