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Old 09-03-2013, 11:52 AM   #61
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One of my RV buddies had a blowout with his heavy Carriage Cameo running 16" LR E tires. He said that another friend of his with the similar RV (weight and size) had tire issues as well. They have both gone to 16" LR G tires, and haven't had a problem since. I think the tires he bought are Crosswind brand.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:34 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Windywest View Post
Tireman9, just wanted to compliment you on your site at RVtiresafety, lots of good info there, easy to read, and easy to find. I just noticed one point that you made in regards to load range and tire pressure. You mentioned that a Load range E inflated to 65 lbs can't carry anymore load than a LR D at 65, since it's the air that carries the load, the tire and rim support it. This fact makes things a lot clearer to me, and running my LR E tires at 65 psi, should make my trailer pull without a lot of bounce, and shouldn't negatively impact the safety of the tires. (my thinking anyway)
Here are some questions that I have;

Does buying an E-rated tire (instead of a C) give you a stronger, and thus safer, tire?

How do you determine the proper pressure if your tire is underloaded? I thought that sidewall flex was a killer, so if you don't inflate to the maximum pressure, will you have excessive flexing?

Just edumacating my self for the future, but someone that currently has a fiver may also benefit from this info.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #63
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I'm no tire expert.. although Roger (tireman9) is and there is some great info on his site.
I found a couple interesting links you might want to check out regarding weight vs tire pressure. I'm sure they are posted elsewhere on this forum, but have a peek.

Michelin North America RV Load & Inflation Tables

The Inflation Loading - Goodyear RV

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:17 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by BigBaron View Post
Here are some questions that I have;

Does buying an E-rated tire (instead of a C) give you a stronger, and thus safer, tire? It is the air pressure not the tire that carries the load so the answer is NO

How do you determine the proper pressure if your tire is underloaded?
Load& Inflation tables from your tire mfg+10% margin for motorhomes.
I thought that sidewall flex was a killer, so if you don't inflate to the maximum pressure, will you have excessive flexing? Not sure how to determine "Excessive" For motorhomes see above for proper tire pressure minimum.

Just edumacating my self for the future, but someone that currently has a fiver may also benefit from this info. Trailer owners have a post just for them identified in the index on my blog.
Quick answers in RED above.

Have you looked theough my blog? Long answers to your questions are there.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:22 AM   #65
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I usually look at FR Forums on my phone, so I haven't seen your blog. In my question I meant; "Is the carcass of an E tire stronger than a C tire?
I'm reading your blog right after I hit enter. Thanks!

Windywest - Thanks!

edit:
Just read four of your blog entries. I'll be reading a lot more of them soon.

*The chalk line test for over and under inflation is genius! You said move the wheel just a few feet. Literally? Walking speeds?

*Can you weigh each wheel individually if you only put one wheel on the scale pad and have the other side of the axle on the concrete? My statics/physics knowledge tells me the weights should be essentially the same as individual scales for each wheel. (I live in Korea-individual scales just ain't gonna happen here)

*Regarding the E vs. C tire, would it be detrimental to buy an E-rated tire and only inflate it to the amount required for the load? Sidewall flex is only an issue if the pressure is UNDER the amount needed for the load if I understand your blog entries.

I pull only single-axle trailers at this point, but don't mind spending more money on tires if it will get me additional safety. I will be pulling multi-axle trailers in the future, but doubt that I will ever have an RV.

Thanks,
Baron
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:57 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by BigBaron View Post
I usually look at FR Forums on my phone, so I haven't seen your blog. In my question I meant; "Is the carcass of an E tire stronger than a C tire?
I'm reading your blog right after I hit enter. Thanks!

Windywest - Thanks!

edit:
Just read four of your blog entries. I'll be reading a lot more of them soon.

*The chalk line test for over and under inflation is genius! You said move the wheel just a few feet. Literally? Walking speeds? Yes you do not have to drive miles and if you turn that will wear a side and confuse the results.

*Can you weigh each wheel individually if you only put one wheel on the scale pad and have the other side of the axle on the concrete? My statics/physics knowledge tells me the weights should be essentially the same as individual scales for each wheel. (I live in Korea-individual scales just ain't gonna happen here) Check the worksheet (need to download) HERE.

*Regarding the E vs. C tire, would it be detrimental to buy an E-rated tire and only inflate it to the amount required for the load? No
Sidewall flex is only an issue if the pressure is UNDER the amount needed for the load if I understand your blog entries. Basically yes but multi-axle trailers are the exception

I pull only single-axle trailers at this point, but don't mind spending more money on tires if it will get me additional safety. I will be pulling multi-axle trailers in the future, but doubt that I will ever have an RV. An E Load Range tire is not necessarily "stronger" in the sidewall body.

Thanks,
Baron
Answers in RED
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:06 PM   #67
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Thank you!
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:29 PM   #68
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I agree with the posts on having the alignment checked at a shop that normally does trailers. I learned with my Coachmen that even large dealers like Camping World do not normally do alignment. In fact my local "store" couldn't even suggest a location to have my Class-C aligned so clearly they do not have a clue when it comes to trailers.
I see Canonman found a trailer alignment shop. I know I would be interested in the before & after numbers and what was involved in doing the "fix".
Boy, were you ever right when you said it would be a specialty shop. I finally did find a shop that can do the work (50 mi from home). Have not been able to coordinate a drop off to them yet. I've taken the TT out on another 400 mi trip and can notice even more deterioration. So, I'm sure there really is something wrong. Will post with the final outcome alignment numbers etc. Quote per axel was $125. Oh well I was thinking about giving up drinking anyway.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:38 PM   #69
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Boy, were you ever right when you said it would be a specialty shop. I finally did find a shop that can do the work (50 mi from home). Have not been able to coordinate a drop off to them yet. I've taken the TT out on another 400 mi trip and can notice even more deterioration. So, I'm sure there really is something wrong. Will post with the final outcome alignment numbers etc. Quote per axel was $125. Oh well I was thinking about giving up drinking anyway.
I hope that giving up drinking so you can pay for the alignment works for you - I suspect that just owning a RV is enought to drive some people to drinking.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:59 PM   #70
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It's sad circumstances when you can't even afford cheap beer to keep your mind off your troubles. Probably a good thing since it was making me fat...er.
Next will be giving up ice cream at bed time to pay for the new tires. Owning an RV is really a good way to go on a diet
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