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Old 05-27-2013, 08:56 PM   #21
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I got new TT tires here and shopped around the word is - nobody balances TT tires.
Well "the word" around here is that most people do balance their TT tires, and those who haven't wished they did.
We bead-balanced ours, inexpensive, effective, and good for the life of the tire.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:59 PM   #22
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One would think so but that is not always the case. Lugcentric is the way they should be done. Cheap rims and tires are not built to the same specs. as auto and truck tires and rims and are.
Perhaps you need to read the specs on the 06Series alum wheels normally used on FR products.

Quality Control - HiSpec Wheel & Tire, Inc. - The Safety Wheel

"Cheap rims and tires are not built to the same specs. as auto and truck tires and rims and are."
And the objective evidence of the above quote can be found where?
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:03 PM   #23
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Perhaps you need to read the specs on the 06Series alum wheels normally used on FR product.
X2
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:40 PM   #24
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Re:tire balancing

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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Perhaps you need to read the specs on the 06Series alum wheels normally used on FR products.

Quality Control - HiSpec Wheel & Tire, Inc. - The Safety Wheel
Yes sir. Those are the ones I've got and they sure seem to be well made. Even the folks at the tire place where they were balanced commented at the quality. After looking at the wheel ass'y again, it seems that the rim and tire are indexed, meaning the red dot on the tires is aligned with the valve stem. I believe that is what some are talking about. Could the fact that the tires have about 3000 miles on them in the unbalanced state influence the amount of weight required the bring them into spec? Just thinking out loud and trying to justify the weight required to get the tires balanced. It just seems to be a lot considering they are built for "fair weather" use, not like they are heavy snow or all terrain tires.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:30 AM   #25
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Not trying to start an argument or debate but I have the HiSpec 06 series of rims and have had good success and am pleased with them and the BG Goodrich tires that are on them. They are Chinese made and require more weights than any American made rim I have ever had. This is even after I had the tire turned several times to reduce the required weights. When I insisted on lug centered balancing, the weights were considerably less. I got exactly what I expected for a $100 rim and am satisfied with that.

I am interested in whether the tires were cone centered or lug centered when balanced.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:39 AM   #26
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Not trying to start an argument or debate but I have the HiSpec 06 series of rims and have had good success and am pleased with them and the BG Goodrich tires that are on them. They are Chinese made and require more weights than any American made rim I have ever had. This is even after I had the tire turned several times to reduce the required weights. When I insisted on lug centered balancing, the weights were considerably less. I got exactly what I expected for a $100 rim and am satisfied with that.

I am interested in whether the tires were cone centered or lug centered when balanced.
So you have had the (Rim-Wheel) balanced without the (Tire) and you know the rim is the problem? That is why you kept indexing the (Tire)? Seems strange to fault the (Rim-Wheel). Youroo!!
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:45 AM   #27
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So you have had the (Rim-Wheel) balanced without the (Tire) and you know the rim is the problem? That is why you kept indexing the (Tire)? Seems strange to fault the (Rim-Wheel). Youroo!!
X2, I think I smell some smoke being generated.

Besides, a CNC machine would detect an out of balance condition on a forged wheel.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:13 AM   #28
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Were they using a cone on the inside of the rim to center it on the balancer ? If so, ask them to use the adapter that mounts on the outside and centers the rim using the stud holes.
If it spins, rotates or rolls at 65 mph, balance it.
This is the absolute best answer.
Most shops do not know they need to do this.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:13 AM   #29
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FWIW Not all wheels are built the same. Some are out of round just like tires. If you can index heavy spot on tire and oppose that to the "heavy" spot on the rim then that can cancel a lot of weight naturally. Finger mount balancing in lug holes is the most accurate balance (especially done with a road force balancer) but that can be expensive (we charged $20 per tire on new installs for road force at the shop I helped manage.

An often overlooked install procedure by most tire technicians on new installs (because it is a time consuming and nobody much cares..or knows it should be done for that matter... if it is done is to air the assembly up then deflate it and then air again. This allows the bead to seat, then the deflate allows it to "even out" when relaxed, then re-inflate. If balance machine is calling for a lot of weight then The first thing I would do is deflate and re-inflate, especially on a new TT bc I doubt highly they did that on factory install.

Another consideration is machine calibration. It takes about 5 minutes to recalibrate each machine and should be done daily at a busy shop or any time the machine is bumped. Often my techs wanted to skip that and just turn on the machine. If you are having balance issues and nothing else seems to work, then ask them when they recall rated machine last. It may be a machine issue and not a tire or wheel issue.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:32 AM   #30
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Don't disagree with either the finger or cone balancing, I'm just saying that after spending 45+ yrs in manufacturing, the chances of an alum forged wheel machined on a CNC machine would not be 4 or 5 oz out of balance without it shaking the machine and being rejected. By the very nature of a forging, it is extremely unlikely to produce such a defect. Also, if the wheel is machined on a CNC, it is just about impossible to produce an out of round or wobbling wheel.
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