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Old 10-06-2011, 11:22 PM   #31
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I'm reasonably sure that it has a D stamp on it. It is rated at 2150#, the others had a D stamp but were rated something like 2450#. The only thing I can come up with is the tire supplier mistakingly had them together and delivered them to the tire dealer that way and along the way nobldy noticed. Appearancewise, they all look the same. Even after I discovered the cupping and the rated max pressure, I sat there staring at the 2 side by side and couldn't see any difference. I can't wait to get them home so I can look again. Maybe even post a pic.
If it is rated D it should be max press 65.
C Rated tires are max press 50.
Pics sure would help clear this up.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:24 PM   #32
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For what its worth, I was under the slideout at a BBQ contest doing all this detective work.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:04 AM   #33
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I'm reasonably sure that it has a D stamp on it. It is rated at 2150#, the others had a D stamp but were rated something like 2450#. The only thing I can come up with is the tire supplier mistakingly had them together and delivered them to the tire dealer that way and along the way nobldy noticed. Appearancewise, they all look the same. Even after I discovered the cupping and the rated max pressure, I sat there staring at the 2 side by side and couldn't see any difference. I can't wait to get them home so I can look again. Maybe even post a pic.
As far as tread goes, the tires will look identical...it's in the composition where there is a difference.

From everything you have posted so far, I have a feeling you have bias (or non-radial) tires installed.

When you say all the tires have a D on them, is this D listed in the size of the tire? Example ST225/75D15.

If that is the case, that D is not a Load Range (although many people do confuse it).

The letters you see in the size, state the construction of the tire as follows

R = Radial construction
D = Diagonal construction
B = Bias construction

D and B (Diagonal and Bias) mean the same thing, as some manufacturers will use a B and some will use a D. I attached some pics that show the difference in the construction of a Bias/Diagonal and a Radial tire.

You will need to look along the sidewall some more (not in the size) and you should see something like "Load Range" or "LR" or "Ply Rating". There will be a letter code after these words that tell you the ply rating of the tire. It may also just flat out state the ply rating with a number (6,8,10).

C = 6 ply and 50 psi pressure
D = 8 ply and 65 psi pressure
E = 10 ply and 80 psi pressure

Now there also exists the possibility that a tire got molded wrong in the manufacturing process. It could be a 6 ply tire, that got an 8 ply Load Range molded on the sidewall (or vice-versa)

I just have a feeling that you have bias/diagonal tires, as they are more prone to the problem you say you are having also. I do believe you have some kind of axle problem too, since you stated the tire is only wearing from the middle of the tread towards the inside of the tire. It is also easy to damage/bend something when you jack it up....and I am tending to believe this happened when they repaired your brakes.

Check out this link, and see if the pictures shown reflect your condition.

HOW TO READ TIRE WEAR

and you can scroll down the page from this link to read about cupping/feathering problems on rv's.

RV Tires: That's Where Rubber Meets The Road!
Attached Images
  
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:08 PM   #34
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What could have happened to the axle by just fixing the brakes? Could leaving it sit for a couple of days on 3 tires cause this? I'm going to need something to go on when I show up with a gripe at the shop where this all started.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:06 PM   #35
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What could have happened to the axle by just fixing the brakes? Could leaving it sit for a couple of days on 3 tires cause this? I'm going to need something to go on when I show up with a gripe at the shop where this all started.
You can actually bend the axle, depending on how/where you jack the trailer up at. I took the following from the Dexter website:

MISCELLANEOUS - Is it okay to jack up my trailer?
Dexter recommends that you do not jack up the trailer on the suspension components because there is always the potential for damage. Bent hangers, leaf springs, or axle tubes can cause bad axle alignment with bad tire wear resulting. Also, many trailer builders do not use Dexter hangers and we have no idea how strong these hangers may or may not be. Therefore, we take the conservative approach and recommend jacking up only on the trailer frame.

Lippert Axles warn on page 5 not to lift by the axle or suspension components:

http://www.lci1.com/images/Flyers/Ow...r-axle-web.pdf

Here's a little how-to to check the alignment:

Trailer Tire Problems & Tips

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Old 10-10-2011, 07:53 AM   #36
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i have had a tire store balance the trailer tires (on newly purchased tires) but for the most part, there are no weights on my tires.
i do have a cargo trailer that is demonstrating cupping in one tire. that tire also is loosing air over abt a week's time. i probably have between 5 and 10 thousand miles on that trailer.
for a tire to demonstrate cupping after abt 300 or so miles unusual.
in my case, i believe it is caused by low air pressure and weight distribution. on urs, it just sounds like a bad tire.
when the cord breaks, they tend to squirm. sometimes, u can jack the tire and spin it and see the tread not staying in line.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:21 PM   #37
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Perhaps too high of air pressure and overloading could cause a broken belt? I had 2 big meat coolers on the dinette which was obviously slid in but they favored that side. We've had a guy tell us that this is more than likely a bent axle caused by turning too sharp on pavement. Surely I'm not the only one that has to make tight turns now and then.
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Old 10-11-2011, 01:24 AM   #38
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Have never heard of bending the axle from turning too tight, It could be possible to damage the tread with a scuffing action in a tight turn, but only if grossly overloaded.

Now maybe if they struck a curb or large object it could happen. More likely improper handling such as jacking in the wrong location would cause the axle to be bent.

The fact that the axle recently had brake work means that it has been jacked up on that axle.

Also, one of the most common cause of cupping is an out of balance tire, hence the tire bouncing as it rotates at higher speeds. It may be difficult to pin point the out of balance as the tire has lost tread and therefore weight were the cupping took place.

Personally I don't believe it has anything to do with one mismatched tire, rather it is more coincidental... IMHO....

Best to do as you did and place the spare tire (matching for the other 3) watch it closely, feel it often for temp differences, and replace the now lighter weight spare with one equal to the rest the tires.

If you see cupping or feel temp differences, then it probably is the axle.

Also, a good tire shop with a good alignment machine should be able to test the axle to see if it is damaged or incorrectly aligned.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:29 PM   #39
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Thanks everyone for all your tips and suggestions. We are fairly new to 5th wheeling and this is by far the longest trip we've been on or likely will go on. With all that will go on at the event itself I'd like to make the trip itself as uneventful as possible. Thanks for keeping up with my now 4 page thread!
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:03 PM   #40
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Update, we pulled the 5th wheel from Kansas City to Tennessee and then back to South Dakota. The replacement tire doesn't show any signs of wear to the eye. I'll try to get some pics of the weird sidewall info. I hit a nail with one of the other tires on the way home and had to get 1 new one. Did you know that Walmart will not touch your RV and that you must roll the tires in for them?
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