Tire wear issues.. not sure why

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If you get it done once, and need to have it aligned again, either you are finding all the curbs and potholes, are overloading, or the axle itself is "weak".

Once should be enough.

One other possible reason not on your list...

Most new trailers come with axles just barely rated, or not enough axle to handle the dry weight of the trailer, let alone the stuff we put in it, and our fine, smooth US highways!

Food for thought...

My previous TT came from the factory with axles way under rated for it.

Of course, by the time it was all figured out what was going on with the TT, it was too late and out of warranty.

And did I mention that I was also over 1000 miles away from home on a Grand Canyon/Quartzite, AZ trip when this issue reared it's ugly head with a wheel bearing burnout that almost completely burned my trailer up on the interstate in Phoenix being the kicker?

Cost me over $4000 to fix it up right.

However, before I had it fixed I completely emptied out the trailer to the way it was the day I bought it brand new and had it weighed.

The exception would be that I didn't refill the two 30-pound propane tanks, so the trailer really should have a few more pounds on it to be exactly the way it was the day I picked it up.

Here is the kicker...it weighed 1040 pounds more than the axles were rated for...completely empty!

One week after getting it fixed I traded it in for my current 5'ver (three years ago this weekend).

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by JimMorrell

Its been said already....1st thing I would do is take it to a reputable axle alignment shop and have everything checked. They will tell you what's wrong. Guaranteed...its not tire pressure.

^X2

[Asrabbit]

The original axle on my trailer was a 3500 # axle. When I picked up the trailer, the road side tire was leaning in at the top, (and no cargo was in the trailer so if it was due to overweight then it was built overweight). The dealer installed a new 3500 # axle and during the 65 mile drive home, that axle had flattened out and again the road side tire was leaning in at the top. I looked into having the axle "aligned", but the cost was $300. I decided to purchase a new axle myself and install it as I did not want to mess with the dealer any longer.

I called Lippert just to get the specs on the axle, (I was going to buy a Dexter). Lippert stated I really should install a 4400 # axle and they told me they would supply that to me without cost. I jumped on that deal and it has been great. I also installed new tires.

As far as the tires go, the original street side tire of course wore on the inside which would be expected. The curb side tire wore on both the inside and outside. I know most people would say I ran it with low air pressure, but I can assure you that was not the case. I believe, although I cannot prove it, that the tire just could not take the weight and the center of the tire was sinking in with the majority of the weight being applied to the inside and outside of the tire. I could be wrong, but that is all I can figure. Of course I upgraded to a load range that well exceeds the weight that will ever be applied to them.

Also, the 3500 # axle on the trailer was flattened out and even bowing downward at the road side end. When I took the axle off and laid it in the drive way, that axle had a perfect bow in it just like it was new. Basically, the axle was not bent at all. The way I see it, and again I could be wrong, is the axle just could not take the weight being applied to it.

[JohnD10]

I tried to get my axles aligned before I left Denver last month and was told by several different shops that they no longer do that!

Hhhhhmmmmm.....

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Asrabbit

The original axle on my trailer was a 3500 # axle. When I picked up the trailer, the road side tire was leaning in at the top, (and no cargo was in the trailer so if it was due to overweight then it was built overweight). The dealer installed a new 3500 # axle and during the 65 mile drive home, that axle had flattened out and again the road side tire was leaning in at the top. I looked into having the axle "aligned", but the cost was $300. I decided to purchase a new axle myself and install it as I did not want to mess with the dealer any longer.

I called Lippert just to get the specs on the axle, (I was going to buy a Dexter). Lippert stated I really should install a 4400 # axle and they told me they would supply that to me without cost. I jumped on that deal and it has been great. I also installed new tires.

As far as the tires go, the original street side tire of course wore on the inside which would be expected. The curb side tire wore on both the inside and outside. I know most people would say I ran it with low air pressure, but I can assure you that was not the case. I believe, although I cannot prove it, that the tire just could not take the weight and the center of the tire was sinking in with the majority of the weight being applied to the inside and outside of the tire. I could be wrong, but that is all I can figure. Of course I upgraded to a load range that well exceeds the weight that will ever be applied to them.

Also, the 3500 # axle on the trailer was flattened out and even bowing downward at the road side end. When I took the axle off and laid it in the drive way, that axle had a perfect bow in it just like it was new. Basically, the axle was not bent at all. The way I see it, and again I could be wrong, is the axle just could not take the weight being applied to it.

It would help us understand the problem if you could provide the numbers from your scale weights, tire size and normal cold inflation. I assume you have compared your pressure gauge with a certified good digital gauge.

[Asrabbit]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

It would help us understand the problem if you could provide the numbers from your scale weights, tire size and normal cold inflation. I assume you have compared your pressure gauge with a certified good digital gauge.

As I stated my camper was empty so if it was over weight that is a real problem that I as the owner did not create. And no I do not have a certified tire gage unless it is and I do not know it. If mine is that far off then I guess I will just live with it. If my information seems unfounded please disregard it. I am no expert.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Asrabbit

As I stated my camper was empty so if it was over weight that is a real problem that I as the owner did not create. And no I do not have a certified tire gage unless it is and I do not know it. If mine is that far off then I guess I will just live with it. If my information seems unfounded please disregard it. I am no expert.

You don't need to be an "expert". My objective is to help people understand why they may have had a tire failure for if you don't understand the 'why" the corrective actions may not solve the problem.

In my blog I have numerous posts that can help you and others understand more. The bottom line is that if you overload your tires (or underinflate them which is almost the same thing) it is not reasonable to expect to never have tire problems.

Tire gauge is easy. Simply stop at your tire dealership and ask them to check the air in your RV or car and then you follow the tire guy around and see what your gauge says. If you are within a couple psi you are probably OK. You don't need to spend a lot toget accurate pressure readings. HERE is my post on what is a good gauge. There are a number of other posts that mention "gauge" too.

You need to know the load on your tires as the proper minimum inflation for every tire is based on the actual, not estimated load it needs to support. The inflation is found on Load & Inflation tables.

I don't know yourtire size but if your OE axle has a GAWR (shown on the certification label on your vehicle) 3500# the tires probably have a "Max load number on the sidewall of your tires of about 1700# and the tires probably have an indicated 65 psi. You can confirm simply by reading the sidewall of your tires.
No idea why your original axles had too much Camber.

Changing to 4400# axles will only increase the capacity if you also het tires capable of supporting 2200# or so and wimilarwith the wheels and hubs. Mounting brackets and springs also need to be up rated as you are essentially re-designing the trailer.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Tire gauge is easy.

Simply stop at your tire dealership and ask them to check the air in your RV or car and then you follow the tire guy around and see what your gauge says.

If you are within a couple psi you are probably OK. You don't need to spend a lot to get accurate pressure readings.

Not sure I can agree with that as last year my TPMS alerted me to a low tire which I found a nail in.

So on the next leg of the journey in the next town I stopped at a tire shop in Canon City, CO to get it fixed.

At least five times I either mentioned or asked to make sure to put 65 psi in the tire, to which he said he would!

After the tire was remounted I asked again if he had put 65 psi and he said yes!

Well, apparently my TPMS and air pressure gauges are out of whack as the TPMS alarm went off about 5 miles down the road and said that tire had 30 psi in it!

Although everything checked out on the other three tires!

Here is a shot at that tire shop:

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Not sure I can agree with that as last year my TPMS alerted me to a low tire which I found a nail in.

So on the next leg of the journey in the next town I stopped at a tire shop in Canon City, CO to get it fixed.

At least five times I either mentioned or asked to make sure to put 65 psi in the tire, to which he said he would!

After the tire was remounted I asked again if he had put 65 psi and he said yes!

Well, apparently my TPMS and air pressure gauges are out of whack as the TPMS alarm went off about 5 miles down the road and said that tire had 30 psi in it!

Although everything checked out on the other three tires!

Here is a shot at that tire shop:

Thanks for the update.
Do you know your warning level for your TPMS?

You said you got a warning, found a nail and then continued your journey before stopping at the Peerless store.

Did you reinflate the tire after getting the initial warning or did you drive when the tire had low inflation? How far did you travel on the low tire? If you need 65 and drove when the tire had only 30 I would consider it scrap as it could fail completely at any time.

Was the damaged tire dismounted, interior inspected and patched and plugged or was the tire just plugged by Peerless? It does make a difference.

Not sure why it took 5 miles before the TPM sounded. If the TPM is warning at 30 psi then it5 looks like the warning level is way too low for your application. Is your normal morning inflation 65 psi? The warning level should be set to the minimm inflation needed to carry the known, measured load on the tires otherwise you can drive hundreds of miles on an overloaded & underinflated tire doing internal structural damage to the tire.

I recently had two posts with test results on inflation report level of two different brand TPMS and while the TPM numbers did not exactly match my certified gauge they were reasonably close.

What did your TPMS report for inflation when you left the store? or did you not check the pressure till the warning sounded?

[mbenson1234]

Call Mike Beckett at MD Alignment. He is very knowledgeable.
800-617-5592

Thanks,
Mike Benson
TST TPMS
210-420-0132

Originally Posted by 007matman

Hello all.

I noticed something wired on our 5000 Mike trip last week.

The insides of my 1-year old ( purchased from Costco) Green ball Towmaster SS tires on the front axle seem to be wearing faster than any other part of the tire. So much that I was nervous driving the trailer home the last 2000 miles.

It appears that the inside edge of both tires is wearing really fast. The rear tires are just fine and appear to be wearing normally. Can something like Camber or Toe be adjusted on a travel trailer?

I think I have Alko axles.. they claim there is no maintenance with those (except the bearings).

Interested in your thoughts.. what would cause this?

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

One other possible reason not on your list...

Most new trailers come with axles just barely rated, or not enough axle to handle the dry weight of the trailer, let alone the stuff we put in it, and our fine, smooth US highways!

Food for thought...

My previous TT came from the factory with axles way under rated for it.

Of course, by the time it was all figured out what was going on with the TT, it was too late and out of warranty.

And did I mention that I was also over 1000 miles away from home on a Grand Canyon/Quartzite, AZ trip when this issue reared it's ugly head with a wheel bearing burnout that almost completely burned my trailer up on the interstate in Phoenix being the kicker?

Cost me over $4000 to fix it up right.

However, before I had it fixed I completely emptied out the trailer to the way it was the day I bought it brand new and had it weighed.

The exception would be that I didn't refill the two 30-pound propane tanks, so the trailer really should have a few more pounds on it to be exactly the way it was the day I picked it up.

Here is the kicker...it weighed 1040 pounds more than the axles were rated for...completely empty!

One week after getting it fixed I traded it in for my current 5'ver (three years ago this weekend).

If your OE axles were not rated to match the Certification Label stated GAWR the RV was in violation of Federal Regulation and you should have been able to get the axles or the complete unit replaced for free or the RV company & dealer would be subject to big fines.
Sames goes for tires. Tire capacity MUST be at least 50% of the GAWR and as of late 2017 tires must be rated for at least 55% of GAWR if the RV has RVIA sticker near the side door of the MH or TT.

[007matman]

Ok.

Found a guy here locally that inspected the trailer and said it likely just needed the bearings repacked and possibly replaced ( along with the races). They are also recommending that I replace the brakes as well. The quote they have me was$780 for all or $250 less if the races were fine.

He also went on to say the bushings may need to be replaced and he'd know more after he has it apart. He quoted another $100 per wheel for that.

That much seems really high but Its been years since I paid to have a job like this done.

Looked up the process on YouTube and it doesn't look very difficult. I already own most of the tools needed. Anyone ever done this? Are there wear indicators on the brake pads? How will I know they need replaced?

I didnt look at the bushing replacement process.. is it difficult?

Any help here would be appreciated.

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Ok.

Found a guy here locally that inspected the trailer and said it likely just needed the bearings repacked and possibly replaced ( along with the races). They are also recommending that I replace the brakes as well. The quote they have me was$780 for all or $250 less if the races were fine.

He also went on to say the bushings may need to be replaced and he'd know more after he has it apart. He quoted another $100 per wheel for that.

That much seems really high but Its been years since I paid to have a job like this done.

Looked up the process on YouTube and it doesn't look very difficult. I already own most of the tools needed. Anyone ever done this? Are there wear indicators on the brake pads? How will I know they need replaced?

I didnt look at the bushing replacement process.. is it difficult?

Any help here would be appreciated.

Took me a weekend to replace the bushings on my car trailer. First day I worked by my self, second day a friend cam over and it went three times as fast. Hardest part was getting the bolts loose by myself. Just did one wheel at a time. Also do my own wheel bearings the same way. Not hard if you know how. I have a gauge for checking the lining to see if it needs to be replaced. When it does, I already have the complete loaded backing plates. Just a matter then of cutting two wires remove and replace and re splice the wires. I was told the shoes and magnets wear out at about the same time. Easier just to make the swap. Hope this helps.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Ok.

Found a guy here locally that inspected the trailer and said it likely just needed the bearings repacked and possibly replaced ( along with the races). They are also recommending that I replace the brakes as well. The quote they have me was$780 for all or $250 less if the races were fine.

Whoa whoa whoa, hopefully you meant to say $250 less if races AND BEARINGS are fine??? Never replace a race or bearing and not the other. They typically won't last long.

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Lins

Whoa whoa whoa, hopefully you meant to say $250 less if races AND BEARINGS are fine??? Never replace a race or bearing and not the other. They typically won't last long.

I thought that was odd too. But he was specific on that. they said the race may or may not need to be replaced. They'd need to inspect.

I think I'm leaning towards DIY at this point.

[Brother Les]

Me... if I am replacing the bearings.... I am replacing the races also.

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Me... if I am replacing the bearings.... I am replacing the races also.

I have a guy at work with a press that has offered for me to borrow. I'm thinking that would be needed to do the races.

I also looked at some of the torsion axle videos and I don't see much in there that could wear out. It appears that they don't usually need maintenance. I think he was blowing smoke on that one. Probably to make me feel better about dropping $700+ on new bearings and brake shoes.

[Lins]

There’s a couple ways to do it without damaging the races. The press is really nice as you’re not hammering them into place

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by Lins

There’s a couple ways to do it without damaging the races. The press is really nice as you’re not hammering them into place

Sadly I think that HAMMERING THEM IN TO PLACE was the death of a Brake drum that failed the last two miles before home on a 500 trip that followed that bearing ReDo'

At this point I do not recommend HAMMERING NOW I will pay the shop to press in any new race I need.

Then I will do just the dirty work.

[andymil]

I’m doing the 6000# AL-KO axels on our Sprinter now. Complete brake assemblies with self-adjusters including mounting studs and nuts were just under $100 for a pair (one left, one right). Timken bearings were about $50 per wheel and Dexter seals were about $9 each.

So basically, about $110 per wheel.

I also would not install new bearings without new races.