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Old 07-06-2015, 01:44 PM   #11
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... Any sharp turning will slam the outside hub bearing into the castle nut and potentially cause the carter key to snap/fail. I would advise replacing the thin carter key that is used with a thicker one.
The threads in the castellated nut takes all the load from the side thrust of the bearings, all the COTTER pin does is keep the castellated nut from loosening. No need to change the cotter pins.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:48 PM   #12
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The threads in the castellated nut takes all the load from the side thrust of the bearings, all the COTTER pin does is keep the castellated nut from loosening. No need to change the cotter pins.
Love many of your posts and advise. Some of your advice works well for you and not for others. The carter key on MY unit are too small and bends with the movement of the castle nut. I choose to go with a fatter key, what others do is their business.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:54 PM   #13
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Love many of your posts and advise. Some of your advice works well for you and not for others. The carter key on MY unit are too small and bends with the movement of the castle nut. I choose to go with a fatter key, what others do is their business.
Sorry to disagree with you, but if the castellated nut is trying to turn, you have something else going on. The flat washer should shield the rotational motion from the nut. As I stated before, the cotter pin is to keep the nut from loosening. The cotter pin should fill the hole in the spindle. If it doesn't, someone used the wrong size.
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:06 PM   #14
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Sorry to disagree with you, but if the castellated nut is trying to turn, you have something else going on. The flat washer should shield the rotational motion from the nut. As I stated before, the cotter pin is to keep the nut from loosening. The cotter pin should fill the hole in the spindle. If it doesn't, someone used the wrong size.

You really are not disagreeing with me. (imo)

The flat washer rotates with the outer bearing from the pressure from turning the unit.

Rotating flat washer (some have flat areas to keep from rotating, mine do not) puts pressure on the castle nut, creating a forward or backward force.

This force is transferred to the carter key, the key is in place to stop the movement of the castle nut.

Why am I putting a larger key in the hole??? (caugh) Because the factory installed too small keys on the spindle aaannndd... (drum roll) there is movement and binding on the key and it (they) are bending. (one broke)

ie. the factory, installed cheap keys that will not hold under massive stress usages.

(I will take your advice and put (keep) the larger key on the spindle, that the factory should have done in the first place)

Blessing OC

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Old 07-06-2015, 02:10 PM   #15
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Bottom line, the factory installed the wrong cotter pins. BTW, there is minimal torsional action on the nut.
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:17 PM   #16
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Sorry they're upside-down... not sure what happened there, but you can still see the problem... just inverted.
When you use a cell phone to take pics for this forum you must turn the phone sideways "landscape" and the bottom of the phone must be in your right hand.
If you forget and hold the phone upright "portrait" you have to go in your gallery and select the photo then crop it just a bit then your pictures will have the right orientation.

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Old 07-06-2015, 03:20 PM   #17
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Old 07-06-2015, 04:00 PM   #18
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If they stay that way after you are nice and straight you have a bent axle.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:15 PM   #19
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This is why it is imperative that you purchase " trailer tires " when replacing tires on towable RVs. The narrow tread is there for the purpose of less sideways drag when maneuvering the RV.
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