Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampy
As others have stated, the stabilizer jacks should not be used for leveling. get a 2 foot carpenter's level and 2 foot pieces of 2"x8" boards that you can place under the tires on the low side of the TT. The reason I chose a 2 foot level has to do with estimating the number of planks you need to level the TT. When you first get on the campsite and almost have the TT in position, lay the level on the floor or back bumper. You can lift one end of the level until the bubble is centered. Measure the distance level to floor/bumper in 1/4" increments. If you do the trigonometry for an 8' wide trailer, the 2 ' level is 1/4th the width, so the amount of blocking you need is 4 times the level measurement or each 1/4" level to floor/bumper you need 1" of tire rise on the low side. Lay the planks in front of or behind both tires and tow the tt onto the planks. This should have you level side to side. Chock the tires and level the front to rear using the front jack. (You may want to detach the TV and remove the WDH in the process.) Now run the stabilizer jacks down until they touch the ground and snug about 1 more turn(if soft soil, use a plank or pad under the jack.) If you still have the bouncies inside, you can add additional jacks near the wheels. If you want to spend the $$, the Lynx Levelers are really good Lego Pads at 1" height increments. ......Swampy
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I agree with everything Swampy has to say with the following minor changes. My Rockwood 2604 WS has 2 slides on the road side. On a perfectly level driveway the camper needs one 2X8 under the road side tires to be level when the slides are open - so figure out how many boards your trailer needs to be level on level ground and use that as your starting point. For the 2 foot level, get several pieces of 1/4" shim stock. Put the level on the bumper and add shims under the level until the bubble is centered. Each shim means another 2X is needed under the tires on that side. Get 2 each 2X8's and cut lengths of 5,4,3,2 & 1 foot with a 45*bevel on the end of each board. The bevel will help the trailer tires ride up on the board. Stabilizers - tighten them down good and tight when you set up. Next day go back and tighten them again, they tend to settle with weight on them. Use any left over boards from leveling under the feet of the stabilizer. Realize that most of the weight of your trailer is still supported by a big rubber balloon full of air. You'll never take the wiggle out unless you get all the weight off the tires.
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