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Old 02-21-2014, 06:49 AM   #1
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What's so different about TT bearings

I just got to wondering after reading lots of threads about bearing failure, greasing bearings, etc. These bearings are no different than the front wheel bearings found on every rear wheel drive car fo over 60 years, and we never worried about repacking them every 5000 miles. 20,000 was pretty much the norm. How could trailer bearings be stressed any more than our old cars that they would need that much attention? I'm OCD about mine just like everyone else but just wondering why.

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Old 02-22-2014, 08:37 PM   #2
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It's not an issue unless the trailer sits for an extended period. Then there is a possibility of corrosion, but if a good grease is used, it is highly unlikely.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:00 PM   #3
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Cars 60 yrs ago had wheel brgs "Made in the USA" not China.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:30 PM   #4
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When we first got into TT's I asked myself the same question regarding why re-pack bearings every 12 months or 12,000 miles??? Seemed pretty dumb to me.
So the first thing I always did on my TT's was to remove the china junk and replace with a decent made wheel bearing. TOYO makes a good bearing. After all the Japanese have been making bearings for their motorcycles for years and selling them to us. Then I hand packed the bearings with with Amsoil full synthetic grease. Correctly adjusted the bearings and left it alone for 2-3 years of traveling.

No problems

TeJay
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
When we first got into TT's I asked myself the same question regarding why re-pack bearings every 12 months or 12,000 miles??? Seemed pretty dumb to me.
So the first thing I always did on my TT's was to remove the china junk and replace with a decent made wheel bearing. TOYO makes a good bearing. After all the Japanese have been making bearings for their motorcycles for years and selling them to us. Then I hand packed the bearings with with Amsoil full synthetic grease. Correctly adjusted the bearings and left it alone for 2-3 years of traveling.

No problems

TeJay
Did the same after the mess I found with those stupid EZ Lube POS things. I put caps in the place of the nipples and now they get greased properly every few years, I do take the caps off and check to ensure the bearing are still seated properly yearly. No more worry about grease all over the brakes either.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:44 AM   #6
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I re-read some posts regarding the E-Z Lube POS system and am still amazed how much many individuals tout their ease of lubing and how much success they have had. I can only say that they've been lucky. All it takes is one time and they might be singing a different tune.

When I first got into the axles of our TT and realized how thin the grease was I was amazed. But then I realized that it had to be thinner so it could pass through that small hole drilled into the axle, then travel through the bearings and back up and out the end of the axle. Standard grease is to thick to do that.

When I taught kids how to pack bearings I did a kids truck once as a demo. When we got into the hub it was full of grease. The kid said that's how id Dad did it. I explained to them that the grease packed into the hub does absolutely nothing except provide insulation so the bearing heat can't get out. The grease in the hub does not travel around. It just stays there until the next time. I did/do recommend a thin film of lube to keep moisture from rusting things in the hub. He took the truck home and his Dad tore it all apart and re-packed the hubs full of grease. It's hard to fix stupid sometimes. That's how many things are done. "Well that's what my Dad taught me so it must be right."

TeJay
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:01 AM   #7
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Im still on the fence about ez lube...never had onr fail but I still repack manually every cple of years...

You mention "thin" grease for ez lube, but per dexter specs I have they recommend min visc 80 , ....of course warm grease flows easier than cold but i dont see Dexter using thin grease due to the ez lube system....what do you consider standard grease vs the lithium/synthetic dexter recommends?

Also I dont feel packing the hub is necessary either...clean the spindle and wipe on a thin coat...the bearings should have enough "fresh muck" on em alrwady and then some!

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Old 03-25-2014, 11:49 AM   #8
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That's exactly how I pack bearings. I use a bearing packer with good grease to stuff the cage full, skim coat the inside of the hub and spindle to prevent rust, and then tighten it up with a little preload. That amazes folks but it's how it's to be done with tapered cage bearings. Many folks leave them a little loose afraid they'll burn up, reality is the bearing is only applying pressure to one spot on the inner race.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:40 PM   #9
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When I said thinner grease it just seemed to be less solid than what I have used for years. I don't know the viscosity of regular grease but the stuff that came out of my hubs seemed at least half as thick.

When I was teaching I told the kids that the grease packed in and around the tapered rollers had to just stick there until the next time they were packed. I called it the greases, "Stick-to-it-tiveness. If you take a good grease between your thumb and pointer and quickly open them up the grease will stick and leave a long thread of grease standing. It's that ability to stay that keeps it in and around the rollers for 30-40,000 miles.

The correct bearing for tapered roller bearings is .003. Since hair is about .0015-.002 that a very small amount of movement that you might feel when trying to rock the wheel. I usually over tighten the adjustment nut about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and spin the wheel. I do that just to make sure everything is seated and to spread the grease around. Then I back it off 1/2 a turn then tighten the nut by hand until all perceptible side to side wheel movement is gone. I would guess we are very close to doing the same thing.

I've never seen the thinner e z lube recommended synthetic grease. If it synthetic then it's probably a good lube. People just don't seem to understand that synthetics are WAY, WAY better than standard lubes.

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Old 03-25-2014, 01:27 PM   #10
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Sounds like we're very similar, I do the same with over tightening, spinning, back off, tighten just until I can feel a touch of drag as I spin the hub. Set the cotter pin and let it ride.

And synthetic everything, I'm finally getting off my tail and going to change my trans and diff fluids over to syn. Might do that this weekend even.
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