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Old 09-26-2016, 11:13 AM   #1
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Wheel Bearings

OK... So I got home late last night from a trip to Charlotte NC for the football game. I live up in Virginia. My buddy smelled a weird smell getting out of the front seat when he was waiting around the trailer. I found that there was grease all over the wheel on one of the tire and the cap for the bearings was missing. Since it was about 12am when we got back in, I decided to unhook my Grand Surveyor 240BH at my buddies house where we found the problem. I have attached a picture I think the right way. My question what am I going to need to do to make this thing right again? I am pretty sure from research I have Al Ko tension axles. I am praying right now that I won't be replacing an axle. I feel ok doing the work myself but if I just need new bearings. I will probably go ahead and just get a hub kit where I can just bolt it on instead of messing with disassembly(I bought this unit used earlier this year and have been putting a lot of money in fixing it up since the first owners seemed not to be good about maintenance.).

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Old 09-26-2016, 11:30 AM   #2
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For starters ... jack it up and remove the tire, then wheel. It sure looks like your outer bearing is shot judging from the gap between whats left of the bearing and outer race.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:37 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by chiggins View Post
OK... So I got home late last night from a trip to Charlotte NC for the football game. I live up in Virginia. My buddy smelled a weird smell getting out of the front seat when he was waiting around the trailer. I found that there was grease all over the wheel on one of the tire and the cap for the bearings was missing. Since it was about 12am when we got back in, I decided to unhook my Grand Surveyor 240BH at my buddies house where we found the problem. I have attached a picture I think the right way. My question what am I going to need to do to make this thing right again? I am pretty sure from research I have Al Ko tension axles. I am praying right now that I won't be replacing an axle. I feel ok doing the work myself but if I just need new bearings. I will probably go ahead and just get a hub kit where I can just bolt it on instead of messing with disassembly(I bought this unit used earlier this year and have been putting a lot of money in fixing it up since the first owners seemed not to be good about maintenance.).

.
Until you take it apart you really don't know, but my bet is you will only need to replace the bearings and races, the bub and axle should be fine still. You said your " buddy smelled a weird smell " that tells me you still dad some grease in it to be burning. But like already stated you will only know for sure when you pull it all apart. A bearing job is easy and the bearings and races should be under $50.
Good luck, travel safe.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:09 PM   #4
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By the picture that hub is toast. Honestly? If the axle stub is good...continue the prayer routine you have. I would check them all(I am sure you already are). Hubs aren't that expensive anymore.


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Old 09-26-2016, 12:27 PM   #5
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Your pictures look just like mine did in July. Same exact scenario. I have a 2009 Flagstaff 26rlss. This time, it was my 2nd time, same wheel. The first time it happened, the outer bearing welded itself to the spindle. Some great park rangers and the campground host helped me work on it for 2 days. After they were able to get a torch to un-weld the bearing from the spindle, everything fell right off. Everything was shot. Upon inspection of the spindle, we found small gouges and the fellas were able to file them down and I replaced everything with a new hub that already had the bearings and the seals already installed. That was the easy part. When it happened the 2nd time, the newly replaced hub blew but this time, the spindle had serious gouges. I am in the process of looking at my options for replacement of the axle. I can have Al-Ko build me one with all new drums, brakes, bearings etc.and it will cost me almost $1000 without shipping. I found that I can take my old axle off, take it to a local trailer place and they will give me 2 new ones for about the same amount of money. I am leaning towards replacing both of the axles due to the lack of maintenance as you have mentioned. What a PITA. Please let us know what your outcome will be.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:34 PM   #6
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Your pictures look just like mine did in July. Same exact scenario. I have a 2009 Flagstaff 26rlss. This time, it was my 2nd time, same wheel. The first time it happened, the outer bearing welded itself to the spindle. Some great park rangers and the campground host helped me work on it for 2 days. After they were able to get a torch to un-weld the bearing from the spindle, everything fell right off. Everything was shot. Upon inspection of the spindle, we found small gouges and the fellas were able to file them down and I replaced everything with a new hub that already had the bearings and the seals already installed. That was the easy part. When it happened the 2nd time, the newly replaced hub blew but this time, the spindle had serious gouges. I am in the process of looking at my options for replacement of the axle. I can have Al-Ko build me one with all new drums, brakes, bearings etc.and it will cost me almost $1000 without shipping. I found that I can take my old axle off, take it to a local trailer place and they will give me 2 new ones for about the same amount of money. I am leaning towards replacing both of the axles due to the lack of maintenance as you have mentioned. What a PITA. Please let us know what your outcome will be.
I am sure you can have that spindle replaced. It is welded in any decent welding or trailer shop should be able to replace. Heck I built an axle for an old boat trailer when I was a kid(went to trailer fab shop. Bought parts went home and welded together). This is far more important than that, but it can be done.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:54 PM   #7
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O yes I am praying I don't need a new axle as I do not need a $500+ in parts. Let alone I am unsure if I want to do a whole axle replacement. I was very happy to hear that people think it may just need new bearings and a hub. $40-50 for a new hub assemble is something I can handle myself just for cost of parts. I am going to try to pull the wheel and everything this evening or tomorrow and see if I am lucky enough to be able to reuse the existing axle.

Also definitely repacking all the other bearings... Gotta love dealers, I have paperwork from them saying that was part of their "Pre-owned" service before the sale. I have probably only done about 500-1000 miles since buying it as I mostly just travel local. This Charlotte, NC trip was the easily half that mileage. But I am not going to bother calling them to complain since it was "as is" sale so I know they will just say that.
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:40 PM   #8
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I will keep my fingers crossed for you. Once you take things apart, clean them really good and inspect things, you will know.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:21 PM   #9
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Also... Where do people recommend getting parts from? I am looking for best pricing I can get from dealer with good service. I have used Etrailer in the past but I don't think they deal in Al-KO axles.

This camper has been a blessing except for this issue (Well there are many others but hey that's a used item for you) as my son is disabled and now with this camper we can afford and have the ability to travel more with him. I would hate to have it sitting out of commission for awhile if this turns out to be very expense. Even tho it sitting may not be an option due to its not at my property right now / I am afraid to move it any further in its current condition. Sorry for the rant, very frustrating yesterday evening (Which added another fun problem where the fitting that broken the day before for the water line into the toilet which flooded our rv bathroom, luckily we were in the camper and got it cut off quickly and cleaned up off the floor.)

Ill let everyone know what I find. I may need to share some pictures of the spindle to get your opinions if its ruined or not. Thanks everyone
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:56 AM   #10
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Step one is to evaluate things starting with the bearings. I am presuming you have no idea how long you drove it this way so you will need to determine just what damage has been done.

I would not clean nor remove anything yet. Jack it up so you can grab the wheel and see if there is any wobble to indicate wear to the bearings. If no wobble then you can proceed to a spin test to see if there is any roughness at all. If no roughness you may only need to clean and repack. Any roughness or wobble and you will need to replace the bearings at a minimum.

Next take it all apart and clean it all up completely. The bearings should have an outer race that is press fit into the hub and an inner race that slides off the spindle. Look for any signs of pitting or any change in color of the bearing races and axle. If the bearing freezes up the inner race may spin on the spindle. This causes a lot of heat and the parts weld themselves together. Then the welds shear leading to gouging. Any grooves or discoloration on the spindle will require spindle replacement (may mean axle). The problem with discoloration of the spindle is it indicates a potential change to the heat treating and thus the strength of the metal. So if it is not perfect smooth silver replace it.

If everything checks out, no wobble, smooth rolling, no pitting, and no discoloration then you got quite lucky.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:27 AM   #11
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I am praying for you too. You will get through this. Just take one step at a time. Once you have everything apart, you can determine if there was any damage done. Replacing the bearings and the race is not difficult at all. Be safe and make sure everything is supported properly. Also, be sure you jack up your trailer on the proper spot. I know you likely already know that, but I just wanted to make sure.


I will be awaiting to hear how it all goes.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:20 AM   #12
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I just last month had the identical bearing failure. I too was fully prepared for a new axle, until I removed it. One difference between your photo and mine is, yours looks like it was super heated, (due to color of wheel and dryness ) meaning possibly driven longer before you noticed. I too did not see mine till I pulled in my driveway. it was daytime, and I had done a routine digital temp check about 100 miles previous at a rest stop. I do this at every pit stop with a hand held digital temp gun from Harbor Freight. All four hubs were good, only 100 miles previous!!
My grease was much heavier on the wheel, and grease was spewing out of the hub. I had the same looking off center spindle/drum indicating an absent and destroyed outer bearing. Mine also retained the castle nut, cotter pin, and retainer washer.
I safely jacked it(I felt better leaving attached to TV) removed all, cleaned with solvent to inspect. Here's what I found:
Both inner and outer bearings were destroyed, roller bearings were spewing around, roller bearing cages were in pieces leading to minor gouging of spindle. The good news was that the bearings themselves did not super heat or destroy the spindle. They were not welded on, I used a simple wheel puller to remove them fro the spindle. After thorough cleaning, I needed some light Emory "dressing" where the bearings ride. The area between the two bearings suffered gouging from the roller bearings tossing around. But that damage I'm told by RV mechanic is of no significance. I replaced all four bearings races and seals with American Made ask for Timpken, or National from a local auto parts store. They simply read the numbers off the bearings. Original 2012 bearings were stamped made in China. After completion, I took 100 mile trip (200 rt). I was pretty gun shy, and had a pretty good "pucker factor". I stopped total 6x (about every 30 miles) doing 60 mph and recorded all four wheels. I was amazed and very happy to see all four running about 110 degrees, and the coolest one ironically was the damaged one!! So keep the faith, keep praying, Jack safely and report back. Sorry long winded, but I m still on cloud nine having been through this just two weeks ago. By the way my temp gun I read 300 when it was smoking in my driveway.


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Old 09-28-2016, 06:19 AM   #13
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All bearings and wheels cool to the touch after driving several hundred miles that day in Texas heat; then bang. Heavy smoke from driver side rear wheel.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...erk-46335.html

Got great gas mileage back to town though ...

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Old 09-28-2016, 08:12 PM   #14
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Ok... finally got a break in the rain and got it Jack up and apart... I think it's border line but let me get everyone's opinions... I have attached pictures. It's not horrible but I can feel lil impression on the mark on the bottom closest to the end... let me know y'all thoughts... I really have appriecated everyone's kind words. This camper has been great for our family especially our son but as a contractor and the economy we have been hurting money wise badly. Main reason we bought used, it's a 2007 grand surveyor 240bh, but I know when buying used you always risk getting other people's problems. Praying this ain't going to be too bad but I want to make it right so it's safe for my family.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:14 PM   #15
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My immediate opinion is that spindle is junk. The outer bearing surface is worn and uneven. The inner bearing surface doesn't look much better... But get some emory paper and clean it up and then wash it...it will look better. You need to get new hub(or at least figure out the correct inner race bore. Get a caliper($10 harbor freight) and take measurements. I think .005" slack would be about right. Don't be surprised if it isn't round. JMO


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Old 09-28-2016, 11:36 PM   #16
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The axle hub area where the "Rear Grease Seal" locates/Runs,is gone! The Seal will Not retain grease from getting into the brake shoe area! Proper fix is New Axle and hub! Youroo!!
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:18 AM   #17
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The axle hub area where the "Rear Grease Seal" locates/Runs,is gone! The Seal will Not retain grease from getting into the brake shoe area! Proper fix is New Axle and hub! Youroo!!
Hard to tell from the photo if that is a seal "rub" or the seal surface is bad.

He needs to clean the spindle and examine that surface carefully. If it is indeed damaged you are correct. As bad as mine looked, we got several thousand miles on it and was still going strong when the other torsion axle suspension went due to a road hazard. We replaced both at the same time.
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:14 AM   #18
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Chiggers, if you want a new axel there is at least two RV Surplus stores in the Goshen and Elkhart Indiana area. I saw new 7K axels complete with brakes and springs there for very little, don't remember the actual price but you can call them and ask about shipping or just go pick it up. good luck
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:55 AM   #19
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I have Al-Ko U-35 tension axles... does anyone know if I just replace one axle if I have to go with the exact same axle from Al-Ko? Or can I get one from dexter which is more readily available in my area here in Virginia.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:35 AM   #20
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Looks pretty bad...
I once had damage to the seal area, due to a bearing failure, that I used a redi-sleeve to repair. The sleeve's intended use was for a harmonic balancer. I had Napa match it to my seal and they sold me 3 different widths and used the one that best fit the depth. Had many years of use after.
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