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07-21-2015, 05:58 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
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Wheel bearings and brakes
We have a 2012 Palomino with less than 10,000 miles on it. How often should the wheel bearings be packed and the brakes checked?
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07-21-2015, 06:16 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 238
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Considering that those are probably two of the most important components on the camper, I have mine done annually. Just had mine done yesterday as we are leaving tomorrow for a couple of months.
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Mark and Joanne
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07-21-2015, 06:24 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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I have mine checked and maintained once a year in the winter. I drop my trailer off to get whatever else done, including a state inspection and don't worry about how long it takes.
Bruce
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2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
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07-21-2015, 04:37 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,397
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I'm with the every two year crowd.
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07-21-2015, 05:02 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 295
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Have used my trailer 3 yrs 8200 miles.....filled the axles when I took delivery with high temp grease.....brakes check on first roll of every pull....newly adjusted brakes for my rig require about 4.5 on the controller and still work fine as they wear have bumped controller up to about 5.5.....and still get proper braking....just put new tires on trailer and there is no wheel movement with a strong 10/2 grab and wiggle on or off ground. Use brakes very little I feel as truck brakes down when let of power....will adjust brakes if controller requires a higher number.....when 10k miles arrives will have brakes checked and new bearing all the way around.....don t forget about torque.....check the lugs as required.....good luck
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2011 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 Gas 3.73
2013 Flagstaff 8524 RLWS
1978 Cape Dory Ketch
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07-21-2015, 05:10 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Northern KY
Posts: 5,725
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IMO you are due for a checkup
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"nothing can now be believed which is seen in a newspaper. Truth itself becomes suspicious by being put into that polluted vehicle."
Thomas Jefferson to John Norvell pg. 2, June 11, 1807
2014 Shamrock 183
2014 RAM 1500 Bighorn Crew Cab, HEMI, 3.21 gears, 8 Spd, 4X4 TST TPMS
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07-22-2015, 01:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 2,147
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three years and nearly 10,000s, way over due for inspection, grease repack and maybe just seals but probably new bearings and seals, to be safe. And most important of all be sure the person doing it KNOW WHAT THE HELL THEY ARE DOING. Not just any mechanic or tire shop SOMEONE WITH REAL RV experience. Just IMO
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07-22-2015, 02:01 PM
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#8
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Hmmm I'm in trouble.
5 yrs ........
Few pumps of grease annually. .
TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "15 nights"
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07-22-2015, 02:41 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS
Hmmm I'm in trouble.
5 yrs ........
Few pumps of grease annually. .
TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "15 nights"
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X2, same boat here and not sinking yet.......
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Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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07-22-2015, 02:42 PM
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#10
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie
X2, same boat here and not sinking yet.......
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[emoji12]
TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "15 nights"
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07-22-2015, 07:22 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 323
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And the gease should last forever??
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImGree
We have a 2012 Palomino with less than 10,000 miles on it. How often should the wheel bearings be packed and the brakes checked?
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It is said by many (me included) once per year or every 5000 miles the bearing should be cleaned, inspected and repacked, and with that all the wheel seals should be replaced (not reused) and while there you should check the brakes, the brake magnets, and wiring going to the brakes, and when reinstalled adjust the brakes.
Hope this helps and Happy Camping
__________________
B.Smith
2010 Cedar Creek Silverback 35ts
2001 GMC 2500HD w/ Allison & 8.1
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08-07-2015, 04:23 PM
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#12
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Phat Phrogs Incognito...
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 200
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Personally, the manual I have from Lippert says yearly or every 10K miles.
For me, I trust no one's work like I trust mine, so I do it. Yearly. It is really not hard and takes about 3 - 4 hours (I'm slow and methodical). If it is just seals, grease and cotter pins, cost is about $25 - $30. But, I *KNOW* it is done right and I *KNOW* what the condition and adjustment is, and that is priceless.
Here's the procedure.
1 - RV parked on level concrete, unhitched and leveled (6 point electric Level Up)
2 - Once leveled, Manually raise the front 3", then the rear 3". At this point the middle section jacks will be about 2" off the ground. Press the "Auto Level" button and it will ground the front and rear (and immediately determine they are grounded), then it will lower the middle jacks until RV is leveled. At this point the tires are still on the ground, but do not have much weight on them. (My guess would be less than 300lb each)
3 - Break all wheel lugs loose (hand tight).
4 - Using a my bottle jack (12 ton) and four 3 ton jack stands, I raise each wheel about 1" off the ground (requires VERY little effort on the jack) and place the jack stand saddle under the axle, between the U bolts. (My jack stand's saddles have the same radius as the axle, 3", so the weight is evenly supported).
5 - Remove lug nuts, remove wheels.
6 - Remove axle hub end cap, remove cotter pin, remove castle nut and remove outer bearing and drum.
7 - Remove wheel bearing seals and remove inner bearings.
8 - Thoroughly clean and inspect all components and replace as needed. (this includes removing all grease from inside of the hub! Also, grease, seals and cotter pins are always replaced)
9 - Repack wheel bearings and insides of hubs (I use Mobil 1 Synthetic - red). Install inside wheel bearing and install bearing seal (VERY thin coating of grease on inside of lips. The seal, not mine.)
10 - Install hub, outer bearing, washer, nut and tighten to about 10 ft lbs, spin and tighten to 50 fl lbs. Loosen, then hand tighten. Insert cotter pin. (if required, back loosen nut until cotter pin can be installed, NEVER tighten!)
11 - Install wheel and torque to spec.
12 - Remove brake adjustment cover from rear of backing plate.
13 - Manually spin wheel, while adjusting brake until wheel cannot be spun by hand.
14 - Loosen brake adjustment until wheel spins by hand, with a SLIGHT drag.
15 - Lower RV and set tire PSI to spec.
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Tina + Dutch and Bell, Bobo, Harley, Buddy (the dogs)
2011 F350 Lariat 4x4 DRW SuperCrew 6.7L (B&W setup w/Air Lift 5000 Ultimate)
2014 Columbus 365RL (Airflex and Voyager package)
Nights Camped 2014 - 154, 2015 - 32, 2016 - 4
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