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Old 08-31-2014, 07:56 PM   #21
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I don't have my trailer nearby or the manuals. Any one know what bearing kit is needed for a 2014 Salem Hemisphere 282RK? I have almost 5k miles on it and will replace the bearings this winter.
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:17 PM   #22
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E trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I've heard from folks who found NEW trailers with one or more wheels
needing grease. Apparently some manufacturers rely on the axle
maker to grease the hubs originally. IF the axle folks miss one or don't
put enough grease in one hub- it's on you or your dealer to take care of
it.

I found one of mine had less grease than the others when new but still
OK I think.
I replace/repack/ inspect brakes every 3 or 4 years. MY 08 trailer has
something over 10,000 miles and the brakes still looked fine a couple
weeks ago when I went thru the whole deal including new tires.
I have no issues with the bearing kits from e-trailer.com

Happy Trails!


They're a good outfit.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Apparently some manufacturers rely on the axle
maker to grease the hubs originally.

Happy Trails!
My observation has been that from the factory the EZ Lube bearings are packed similar to what you would do by hand but the hubs are empty. The first time you pump through the Zerk you have to fill the whole hub before grease starts making its way through the outer bearing. It takes a lot of grease the first time. Then when you do decide to pull the drums and inspect the hubs you have to clean out all that grease - what a mess! For that reason I 'll be hand packing in the future with good ole Lucas Red.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:35 PM   #24
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Did my breaks today. Checked the bearings and seals. Found two of the wheels were soaked with grease. Breaks and all. There is only 200 miles on my new 320RS. Replaced the seals and repacked the bearings by hand. The hubs were full of a very light grease that worked out of the seals. I removed this light grease and repacked with a good hytemp grease. I did find that after 200 miles the new breaks did need to be adjusted.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:04 PM   #25
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Why can't we find a tube to fit between the bearings and stop filling up that void and wasting grease and a mess cleaning it.
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:30 PM   #26
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Took the wheels & brake drums off my 2014 Sabre after 2000 miles and already had a leaking grease seal. Alko axles on a Lippert frame obviously had single lip seals. I paid more for each new double lip seal at NAPA than all 4 cost from Alko. A container of No.2 red grease, a roll of paper towels and some common mechanic tools plus a short piece of 2x4 to drive home the new seal. Check the grease fitting for tightness as one of mine was rolling around inside the dust cap. Rotate the tires slowly as you add grease after packing those bearings by hand. Also take the time to manually adjust the brake shoes and you won't be on the side of the road waiting for a repair vehicle.
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:48 PM   #27
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Ya know, in an emergency on torsion axels you can remove the tire and run it on three wheels. Of course slow speeds and not to far. Been there done that...
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:50 AM   #28
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Ya know, in an emergency on torsion axels you can remove the tire and run it on three wheels. Of course slow speeds and not to far. Been there done that...
Didn't know that Thanks for that info, hope I never have to do that......
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:56 AM   #29
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Better be prepared to replace both tires on that single wheel side. I'm sure you have over loaded that ire rating by doing so.
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:06 AM   #30
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Good luck to find USA made wheel bearings. I would say they don't exist anymore.....
Better luck is to find Japanese made one....
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:14 AM   #31
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wheel bearings

Those of us who service our own bearings have probably seen that spindles with zerk fittings installed apply grease from the zerk through a tiny channel back to the inner bearing, not to the outer one. They work great for keeping grease in the cavity, but probably not as good at providing fresh grease to the outer bearing. And attempting to replace all of the grease simply by pumping lubricant through the zerk without disassembly and cleaning might be futile, and at the risk of forcing grease into places where it isn't wanted. Prevention is worth a lot; I have had bearing failures and they don't happen in convenient places. Following a complete failure where the bearing is ruined, it's unlikely that it will be repaired along the road especially if the assembly gets so hot that the spindle is ruined too. So, it could be necessary to tow the trailer on three wheels to the nearest service--risky business!
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:23 PM   #32
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Those of us who service our own bearings have probably seen that spindles with zerk fittings installed apply grease from the zerk through a tiny channel back to the inner bearing, not to the outer one. They work great for keeping grease in the cavity, but probably not as good at providing fresh grease to the outer bearing. And attempting to replace all of the grease simply by pumping lubricant through the zerk without disassembly and cleaning might be futile, and at the risk of forcing grease into places where it isn't wanted. Prevention is worth a lot; I have had bearing failures and they don't happen in convenient places. Following a complete failure where the bearing is ruined, it's unlikely that it will be repaired along the road especially if the assembly gets so hot that the spindle is ruined too. So, it could be necessary to tow the trailer on three wheels to the nearest service--risky business!
According to the lit, they include it to grease your inter and outer bearings. I really don't know how to and would admit it. Lippert did tell me that they put in garbage grease and replace it with some good grease rated at 400 degrees they do not come with that. I like the idea of the double seal from Napa, I read in a post, and when I take it to my tire dealer have them install them and add the 400 red by Lukas. Then I can just pump a stroke or to with a hand gun to keep them up.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:29 PM   #33
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The grease does flow from the inner to outer bearing. If you fill the cavity up the grease will come out the front of the hub.
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:45 PM   #34
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dexter has a good vid on youtube. i expand a little on what i feel to be inadequate in the dexter vid on the good old rvs site. got a bearing pack tutorial there. lippert uses a semi viscous grease that should be replaced asap..lost 40% of backing plates on first first year rentals.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:09 PM   #35
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In response to Happy Vibe's comment that "grease will come out the front of the hub" when pumping wheel bearing grease in through zerk fittings like Bearing Buddy, yes it will, but they are meant to maintain a full supply of grease around the bearings, not as a means to replace all the grease. This youtube video explains that the vent/overfill system in Bearing Buddy allows gas and small amounts of grease to exit when the cavity is full, and the cup captures what leaks out before it can be spun out and deposit on your rims and tires.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:22 AM   #36
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the lippert axle with the zerk is a knockoff of the dexter ez-lube. it was intended for marine applications according to dexter. bearing buddies are superior to the ez lube design and quite different.
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Old 02-24-2015, 04:52 AM   #37
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I am not sure if a couple of squirts now and then is the correct way to grease....my trailer was pulled from the factory, about 650 miles to dealer, not sure what dealer did to bearing/wheels when it arrived.....drove it a few hundred miles on shake down camp trip so had about a 1000 on it when I pull the high temp red in the zerk....must admit got nervous at how much had to pump but finally the grease came out where it is suppose to....at 8500 miles replaced tires and when they were off the ground did 10/2 grab and wiggle....with no movement...brakes get very little use and all seem to work fine.....as drive slow speeds 56-58 mph and exhaust slows rig almost all the time ...... after get 10k miles on trailer will have bearing professionally replace and brakes checked.....as recommended by trailer service center......I never drive more than two hours without a stop at a rest area....nothing ever gets barely warm and according to temp gun and tpms.....no heat any where...


Good luck to all Speed = heat = problems why hurry your house is with you
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Old 02-24-2015, 05:31 AM   #38
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I am not sure if a couple of squirts now and then is the correct way to grease....my trailer was pulled from the factory, about 650 miles to dealer, not sure what dealer did to bearing/wheels when it arrived.....drove it a few hundred miles on shake down camp trip so had about a 1000 on it when I pull the high temp red in the zerk....must admit got nervous at how much had to pump but finally the grease came out where it is suppose to....at 8500 miles replaced tires and when they were off the ground did 10/2 grab and wiggle....with no movement...brakes get very little use and all seem to work fine.....as drive slow speeds 56-58 mph and exhaust slows rig almost all the time ...... after get 10k miles on trailer will have bearing professionally replace and brakes checked.....as recommended by trailer service center......I never drive more than two hours without a stop at a rest area....nothing ever gets barely warm and according to temp gun and tpms.....no heat any where...


Good luck to all Speed = heat = problems why hurry your house is with you
I remember when I got my unit Herk told me to check the bearing grease to fill it up. I did it took a tube and a half. After 2 years they replaced my hubs and breaks at Goshen he said my seals where still good on the old. But Herk told me to take my time and use a hand gun. The factory guy told me the same thing, just a couple of squirts, but said they did not use a good grease and should replace it by hand with a gun until I see the new grease come out. I drive about like you for 3 years now and shoot my hubs and have tmps on. No problem yet, so I guess I will keep it up.
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:39 AM   #39
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I'm not a TT guy, but a good in-flight check I do when pulling a trailer, is feel for any excess heat build up on each axle, at every fill-up. That is a good indicator wether you have adequate grease at the inner and outer bearings.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:59 AM   #40
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Frozen the ez-lube axle is nothing like a bearing buddy. The grease goes down the center of the axle and then through holes in the back side. The grease then flows through the inner bearing, then the cavity and then the outer bearing and finally comes out the front of the axle. You need to look at the videos that are on line to get a better idea of how they work.
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