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Old 02-26-2015, 03:47 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Happy Vibe View Post
If you have used the ez lube per the instructions there should be no air pocket between the bearings.
I dont see how one could expect 100% evacuation of air with the dexter app...The BB is under a slight pressure and is pretty much devoid of any air possible
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:48 PM   #62
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That's funny my ez lube were never made for marine use.
dexter specified, at least on my last viewing, that the ez-lube is for marine applications on their website...
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:54 PM   #63
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A BB is a one way unit. You put the grease in , how does the air get out? The marine environment is more sever than an RV (you don't back your RV into water) so it should work better.
This will be my last post on this thread as you seem to be set in your ways and this is an arguments that neither of use is going to win.
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:49 PM   #64
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it gets burped out the disk in front. but in hind sight, no debating, the introduction of grease from the inner bearing area is much better than the BB method. I would imagine with all the pumping, spinning, burping that all the air would escape, but possibly not. I entered into the academia of this thread because I'm not a fan of hubs crammed with grease on rvs, and to point out that dexter intended for the ezlube design for marine applications....peace
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:53 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Happy Vibe View Post
If you have used the ez lube per the instructions there should be no air pocket between the bearings.
I agree that disassembly is the best way but not every year, and this video FROM DEXTER confirms that. I repacked mine last spring and don't plan on doing it this year unless we go on a long trip.I do plan to jack the trailer up and pump a few pumps into the grease fittings that's it.
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:13 PM   #66
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the old school recommendations were every year or 10,000 miles. but, that was back when long fiber grease was the norm. I no longer advise folks to pack every year but stick with the 10,000 mile. I have seen one custy go 16,000. BB do have an advantage in marine applications where even if there is trapped air, there is a pressurized grease cavity in the dust cover to fill any void caused by contracting air. I see no problem with your lubrication plan..However, properly packed bearings should need no grease until the next interval...10,000 miles and up to 2 or 3 years if good grease is used.
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:00 PM   #67
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In 2008 we had a bearing failure on a (I won't name the brand) at about 9000 miles. In addition to the bearings, the spindle was also ruined. The manufacturer replaced the entire axle under warranty. I don't know what caused the failure, but we eventually traded for an (same brand, different model). Before long it also lost a pair of bearings which were replaced. I began feeling hubs nearly every time we'd stop and one or two were often running too warm, not always the same ones. I began blaming the bearings themselves, so changed them more than once trying to find better quality. Also tried different greases with no improvement. So I purchased new axles, changing from the stock 3500 lb. axles to 4000 lb. I was greatly disappointed to have yet another failure even though I was doing at least annual inspection/maintenance. The manufacturer, my dealer, and two alignment shops all were puzzled. Diagonal measurements between axle tubes were okay as were measurements from axle tubes up to a plumb bob dropped down from the king pin. Everything looked square until I finally measured between spindles; the left two were more than 2" father apart than the right two. Surprisingly, the tires wore normally. Yes, I hit some bumps but no, I don't drive over curbs or boulders. And no, I don't overload. Anyway, traded again for a (same brand, different model--guess I'm a slow learner). Guess what; at about 6000 miles three tires badly worn. Found that those 3 spindles were angled upward. Manufacturer paid to have an alignment done. It seems that the only ways to adjust torsion systems are to either bend the axle tubes (which was done to my last one), or cut the axle mounts off the frame and reposition.
I know torsion systems are generally reliable; thousands of you run them with no problem, so can only blame my troubles on misfortune. One of the failures was discovered at a remote campground in Utah--I'm from Minnesota. The bearing seized to the spindle and I couldn't get it off. Winter was coming--thought I was going to have to leave it there, but found a guy with a torch. With heat, it finally came off. We cleaned up the spindle, reassembled with new bearings and drove home.

Correct track can be used to correct the alignment. The geometry is important.
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:57 PM   #68
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To add to the OPs original concern - I wouldn't trust how these axles are greased from the factory - Lippert (or other chassis) or FR.
Mine has the EZ Lube hubs and I used up more than a tube of grease to fill the hubs the first time after we took delivery.
Sure, the bearings had grease in them, but the EZ Lube hubs were never 'properly' filled as I believe they should have been.

Preventative maintenance of trailer hubs and bearings is relatively simple and it adds a lot of peace-of-mind to know they are correctly maintained.
we agree on not liking how the manufacturer greases the hubs but for different reasons. first off i hope you did not add grease to the grease that lippert already had in the hub. the two different greases may not be compatible. one should dissamble, clean, pack the bearings with the grease in the grease gun, thenm assemble and fill from there if so desired. secondly, lippert uses a runny grease. i spoke with NHTSA and sent them a sample. they called it a semi-viscuous grease. it is unlike any grease ive seen. a dollop on your finger will drop off on a 60 degree day. we lost 40 percent of our brake assemblies within the first year. I recommend a repack on any new trailer with this grease.
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:01 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
dexter specified, at least on my last viewing, that the ez-lube is for marine applications on their website...
Hubs Yes
Electric brakes No
These axles are not for marine use but for travel trailers
They use the Hubs for both applications I agree but on these trailers no.
I like the Idea that they are water resistant but no axle can keep all the water out some will get in that is why the BB is better than the ez-lube axle for marine use the grease gets pushed to the back by pressure of the grease at the cap pushing any water that gets past the seal and out the back. Most boat trailers have hydraulic drum brakes. But newer and better ones have changed to SS disks.
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:20 PM   #70
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Hubs Yes
Electric brakes No
These axles are not for marine use but for travel trailers
They use the Hubs for both applications I agree but on these trailers no.
I like the Idea that they are water resistant but no axle can keep all the water out some will get in that is why the BB is better than the ez-lube axle for marine use the grease gets pushed to the back by pressure of the grease at the cap pushing any water that gets past the seal and out the back. Most boat trailers have hydraulic drum brakes. But newer and better ones have changed to SS disks.
not sure where we're going here. dexter makes the one axle but states that the ez-lube portion is for marine applications. otherwise were pretty much in agreement here unless I missed something...
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:28 PM   #71
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E-Z LUBE - What is the E-Z Lube option?
The E-Z Lube option was designed specifically for the marine application where the axles are constantly being immersed in water. This feature provides a convenient method for purging the water from the hub cavity without having to pull the hub every time. The hubs should be removed every 12 months or 12,000 miles to inspect the bearings and it is imperative to replace the seal at this time to assure that the grease does not leak out the back onto the brake linings rendering the brakes non-functional.

per dexter off their website...
the feature is ithe axle is it not?
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:49 AM   #72
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You just will no let this go until all the people on this forum agree with you will you. The axle may have been original for marine use but it is now being used on other axles and the system does work if used properly.
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:20 PM   #73
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sorry you feel that way. that is not my intention at all. my intention was to educate folks on the intended use of this feature. i have no control over what people chose to do or believe.
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:59 PM   #74
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Took the wheels & brake drums off my 2014 Sabre after 2000 miles and already had a leaking grease seal. Alko axles on a Lippert frame obviously had single lip seals. I paid more for each new double lip seal at NAPA than all 4 cost from Alko. A container of No.2 red grease, a roll of paper towels and some common mechanic tools plus a short piece of 2x4 to drive home the new seal. Check the grease fitting for tightness as one of mine was rolling around inside the dust cap. Rotate the tires slowly as you add grease after packing those bearings by hand. Also take the time to manually adjust the brake shoes and you won't be on the side of the road waiting for a repair vehicle.
Do you remember what double seal part # Napa ordered for you. Thet told me I need a part # of the seal itself? It would really help, plan on going to the double seal system myself....
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:18 PM   #75
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This page from Dexter says it is for most axles.
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:25 PM   #76
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After taking delivery on our unit on 12/13 in Florida and getting it home a month later I decided to ck brakes and bearings. When I pulled the wheels and drums two of the four back plates had lobs of black grease on them. I broke everything down and cleaned it up, no grease on the brake shoes yet. Installed new timkin seals from Autozone and hand packed the bearings with Lucas red and tacky #2 and reassembled. I was undecided to fill the voids with grease so in the end I did and it took almost three tubes of grease to do all four hubs. Should be good for a couple more years with just a pump or to before a long trip.
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:35 PM   #77
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If you jacked up your rig and slowly turned the wheel while you pumped
the hubs full of red grease #2- in my opinion- you don't need to add
any more grease ever. IF you saw grease come out around the outer
bearing washer and nut you are good to go until you decide to replace
bearings. That's what I do/have done over the last 3 trailers.

Double lip seals can be ordered from etrailer.com
They've got it all at pretty much the best prices for brake parts, bearings,
seals, and kits with all of the above.

Check the papers that came with your rig to get proper size seals and or bearings or you can usually measure the inside diameter of the outer end
of your brake drum hub. (remove the bearing cap and measure the cap!)
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:53 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Do you remember what double seal part # Napa ordered for you. Thet told me I need a part # of the seal itself? It would really help, plan on going to the double seal system myself....
What lb axle do you have Glenn?
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:11 PM   #79
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What lb axle do you have Glenn?
4000 lbs. AL-KO
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:16 PM   #80
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4000 lbs. AL-KO
Alko double lip seal number should be 568861
That's the alko number.
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