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Old 02-25-2015, 10:34 AM   #51
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I used to pack by hand.
This gizmo I have now works better,faster and cleaner.
And my hands don't cramp.

Never did repack the bearings in my flagstaff when I had it for 6 years.
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:40 AM   #52
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Those do work great . plus you get in and see whats going on . who ever thought of zerks on wheel bearings did not think and must have been lazy . they may pack the outer bearing but never work well for the inner bearing . bearing maintenance should be done once a yr and checked through out the season for play . going 6 yrs is pushing it . when it comes to road travel you can never be to careful wit your equipment . nothing worse then sitting on the side of the road or watching one of your trailer wheels pass you as your driving . lol

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Old 02-25-2015, 11:18 AM   #53
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I checked my wheel bearings after the first time out,only250 mi. I found grease on all four sets of breaks. I changed out the seals to be double lip seals and put in better grease.
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:25 AM   #54
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northstar1960 the grease from the zerk goes to the inner bearing first so why does it do a bad job of greasing that first? When you use the zerk you are not replacing lost grease you are pushing the grease from the inner bearing to the outer bearing and the old grease comes out around the zerk. I believe that taking the hub apart is needed to see what is really going on but I don't think it is needed on an annual basis.

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Old 02-25-2015, 11:42 AM   #55
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In 2008 we had a bearing failure on a (I won't name the brand) at about 9000 miles. In addition to the bearings, the spindle was also ruined. The manufacturer replaced the entire axle under warranty. I don't know what caused the failure, but we eventually traded for an (same brand, different model). Before long it also lost a pair of bearings which were replaced. I began feeling hubs nearly every time we'd stop and one or two were often running too warm, not always the same ones. I began blaming the bearings themselves, so changed them more than once trying to find better quality. Also tried different greases with no improvement. So I purchased new axles, changing from the stock 3500 lb. axles to 4000 lb. I was greatly disappointed to have yet another failure even though I was doing at least annual inspection/maintenance. The manufacturer, my dealer, and two alignment shops all were puzzled. Diagonal measurements between axle tubes were okay as were measurements from axle tubes up to a plumb bob dropped down from the king pin. Everything looked square until I finally measured between spindles; the left two were more than 2" father apart than the right two. Surprisingly, the tires wore normally. Yes, I hit some bumps but no, I don't drive over curbs or boulders. And no, I don't overload. Anyway, traded again for a (same brand, different model--guess I'm a slow learner). Guess what; at about 6000 miles three tires badly worn. Found that those 3 spindles were angled upward. Manufacturer paid to have an alignment done. It seems that the only ways to adjust torsion systems are to either bend the axle tubes (which was done to my last one), or cut the axle mounts off the frame and reposition.
I know torsion systems are generally reliable; thousands of you run them with no problem, so can only blame my troubles on misfortune. One of the failures was discovered at a remote campground in Utah--I'm from Minnesota. The bearing seized to the spindle and I couldn't get it off. Winter was coming--thought I was going to have to leave it there, but found a guy with a torch. With heat, it finally came off. We cleaned up the spindle, reassembled with new bearings and drove home.
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Old 02-25-2015, 01:59 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by northstar1960 View Post
IMO using the zerk fitting on bearings is a bad idea ! if your losing grease then you need new seals . those that think they can go pump in some grease every now and again are in for a break down sooner or later . The only proper and correct way is to remove and pack by hand , check all bearings and hubs , replace seals if needed , check breaks .
I've seen to many burned up bearings and axles from people who said they pump them full every yr.
Trailer bearings are not expensive , seals are not expensive the time it takes to pull the 4 hubs and do by hand is only a couple hours . this allows you to really check your unit out .
I don't think that anyone said that they are losing grease. If your losing grease It going out the seal common sense tell you that. It is recommended by AL-KO to add grease 2 x's per year and wipe the excess off before replacing the dust cover. That tells me that the seal is still good. Is double seals better YES. Next time the hubs are pulled and brakes or bearing and seals need replacing they will be double for sure. There is nothing wrong with the system or following the instructions. A few people have had problems granted but what about the thousands of owners who never had. My seals were still good after 2 years and over 10,000 miles following there instuctions......The inter and outer do get grease by the design. Everyone has there own way, Some people do not even adjust there brakes> I do mine 2 x's per season. Nothing wrong with your way at all but nothing wrong with AL-Ko either if you do it right, but that's just my opinion.
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Old 02-25-2015, 02:30 PM   #57
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To add to the OPs original concern - I wouldn't trust how these axles are greased from the factory - Lippert (or other chassis) or FR.
Mine has the EZ Lube hubs and I used up more than a tube of grease to fill the hubs the first time after we took delivery.
Sure, the bearings had grease in them, but the EZ Lube hubs were never 'properly' filled as I believe they should have been.

Preventative maintenance of trailer hubs and bearings is relatively simple and it adds a lot of peace-of-mind to know they are correctly maintained.

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Old 02-26-2015, 01:30 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Beg to differ on this. Bearing Buddies will force grease around the rear seal and ruin the brake shoes. BB are ok for trailers WITHOUT brakes!
both the ez lube and BB are made for marine applications. therefore the BB is superior due to the fact there is no air pocket to contract and draw water in upon launching a boat. i prefer neither for RV application...
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:38 PM   #59
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If you have used the ez lube per the instructions there should be no air pocket between the bearings.

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Old 02-26-2015, 02:01 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
both the ez lube and BB are made for marine applications. therefore the BB is superior due to the fact there is no air pocket to contract and draw water in upon launching a boat. i prefer neither for RV application...
That's funny my ez lube were never made for marine use.


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