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Old 08-27-2014, 12:31 PM   #1
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Wheel Bearings - Over cautious or????

I have a 2010 FR TT that I purchased new.. It now has 6K miles on it.. The axles and hubs are Lippert.. As of yet I have not experienced any hot or higher than normal hub temperatures on any of the 4 wheels. Given my navy background training (preventative maintenance), I think that it would be wise to have them repacked and checked before something occurs. Most of our RV traveling companions are telling me this is a waste of time / money money since no issues have surfaced so far. Opinions ?? Comments?? How often do you check and repack your trailer wheel bearings??
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:43 PM   #2
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If it were my TT, I would also replace the bearings with a higher quality one made in the USA. Too many stories about the cheap Chinese bearings for me to trust them. Cheap insurance.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:40 PM   #3
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Owner's manual for our axles says repack every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. I have them checked every year - in NY the dealer is required to pull one wheel as part of the annual inspection. They do a visual and make a recommendation on when to do bearings and brakes. Mechanic says it varies, but usually every 2-3 years is typical.

I wouldn't wait until you have a problem - that's for sure. It is fairly pricey to have it done at a dealer, but a little pm can save a lot of headaches later.

As for USA bearings - good luck. They are pretty scarce. Depending on what condition the existing ones are in, you can probably just re-pack and be good to go. If you do replace, its like tires - get a quality brand - that matters more than where its made. Most of Timken's wheel bearings are made in China or someplace outside the US but like a Goodyear Marathon tire, you are gettting a better product than a no-name throw away.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:45 PM   #4
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Most bearing supply houses can get good bearings...you will pay for the luxury. I think the next most important thing is to use good grease. If it's $2-3 dollars... Then keep on looking. Synthetic, No.2, high pressure/high temperature.


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Old 08-27-2014, 01:50 PM   #5
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Do it!!!!!!!!!
I took mine apart when it was new.
It gives you the chance to look for little broken or worn bits and discoloration, etc..
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:52 PM   #6
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Does your unit come with grease zerks already installed? If it does, just very gently, slowly pump some high temp grease in until all of the old is out. Do not bust the seals on the inside.

My last camper, I hand packed/greased the bearing 3 times in 15 years. If no zerks.... go ahead and hand pack them your self... it is easy.
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Old 08-27-2014, 02:52 PM   #7
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preventive maintenance, generally can keep you off the side of road.....if it doesn't have the bearing buddy with grease zerts, I would add those if you can, when you pack them.....I always give my camper a couple of shots each trip.

My opinion, if it is something you are going to keep, then it would not hurt to replace the bearings, since you are going to have it tore down anyway. then keep a couple of the old ones for spare....

Agree with grease choice, dont waste your money on cheap...get a good water resistant syn. high temp bearing grease.....

good luck....
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:19 PM   #8
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When I worked in the real world years ago, Timken was made in USA.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KMP44 View Post
Owner's manual for our axles says repack every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. I have them checked every year - in NY the dealer is required to pull one wheel as part of the annual inspection. They do a visual and make a recommendation on when to do bearings and brakes. Mechanic says it varies, but usually every 2-3 years is typical.

I wouldn't wait until you have a problem - that's for sure. It is fairly pricey to have it done at a dealer, but a little pm can save a lot of headaches later.

As for USA bearings - good luck. They are pretty scarce. Depending on what condition the existing ones are in, you can probably just re-pack and be good to go. If you do replace, its like tires - get a quality brand - that matters more than where its made. Most of Timken's wheel bearings are made in China or someplace outside the US but like a Goodyear Marathon tire, you are gettting a better product than a no-name throw away.
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:31 PM   #9
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We do about 8000 mls. a year, so I get mine done every year. Camping World has a special for bearing repack, brake adjustment and suspension inspection. It cost about $235.00 for 4 wheels. Could do it myself but for the price it's not worth the trouble. I don't like the buddy bearing caps, don't know what really going on inside unless it's opened up to see. Had friends pump their brakes full of grease by trying to go the cheap way.

CW been doing mine for three yrs now and gives me piece of mind on our travels.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlocicero View Post
When I worked in the real world years ago, Timken was made in USA.

Add them to the list of "global" companies. They make stuff all over. Most of the Canton OH operation went to India a few years ago.

Still they make a better product than many of the no-name parts out there. I guess you can't blame them when the market is flooded with low price stuff and they have to stay competitive.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:01 AM   #11
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If you have the axles with a zerk built in and that are designed to be lubed, this is what I do.

Make sure you lube them immediately upon purchase; the factory doesn't put much grease in there.

Put several pumps in the zerk every 1,000 miles or so.

Pump in all clean grease at the beginning of each season.

I went 25,000 miles before actually pulling the hubs apart to inspect, pack the bearings, and adjust the brakes. Zero issues, hubs run nice and smooth, and run cool. My bearings looked perfect at 25,000.
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:10 PM   #12
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I do my every Spring but not only for the bearings.
In ten years I have only ever replaced two bearings because the seamed worn(I always do the set and the races).
I have found a broken brake pad, two broken break springs, a broken magnet wire and several blown seals(probably because I pump to much grease in; still learning greased axles). This last year I found significant wear on the drum where the magnet rides. Next year I'll take the drums in to be sure their in specs.
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:28 AM   #13
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Nothing can be said about "removal, cleaning, inspecting, repacking/replacing bearings. A lot of campers will tell you to weigh your rig. That being said and what you have said I would replace ALL inner and outer bearings on all wheels.
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:02 AM   #14
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When I was at the rally they replaced all my hubs and breaks, with a newer aggressive break pads and a bigger magnate. Asked him about the bearings he said 5000 miles or every year. Also said to use 500 degree grease. Asked about timkin , he said they are also made overseas and that these bearings will last just as long. Also said that back seals were ready to blow. Said that even through they have the fitting, do it by hand and do not over fill them. I asked if they fill them at the factory he said no they come pre filled by the Hub people not lippart. I asked him if he was going to add grease and he said no there is plenty in there, only add grease when I repack them. Also got a text from his boss at lippert explaining it to me.
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:19 AM   #15
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I've heard from folks who found NEW trailers with one or more wheels
needing grease. Apparently some manufacturers rely on the axle
maker to grease the hubs originally. IF the axle folks miss one or don't
put enough grease in one hub- it's on you or your dealer to take care of
it.

I found one of mine had less grease than the others when new but still
OK I think.
I replace/repack/ inspect brakes every 3 or 4 years. MY 08 trailer has
something over 10,000 miles and the brakes still looked fine a couple
weeks ago when I went thru the whole deal including new tires.
I have no issues with the bearing kits from e-trailer.com

Happy Trails!
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:51 AM   #16
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I travel on average 4 to 6 thousand miles a year. I repack and change the seals every year. Since I do it myself cost is not a factor. It is easy and cheap insurance. I also carry extra bearings with me just in case. But on the flip side I know guys that have not touch their bearings or seals for 5 years and had no problems
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:19 PM   #17
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Next Question??

I have decided to have by bearings checked, replaced if needed, repacked and new seals installed next week. My questions is this... The trailer will be attached to my truck with a WD hitch.. Since they will be jacking the trailer up (using plate under spring / axel connection), should I take the tension off the WD bars before letting them begin or will it make any difference?...
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adony View Post
I have decided to have by bearings checked, replaced if needed, repacked and new seals installed next week. My questions is this... The trailer will be attached to my truck with a WD hitch.. Since they will be jacking the trailer up (using plate under spring / axel connection), should I take the tension off the WD bars before letting them begin or will it make any difference?...
I would disconnect myself. Just to be safe. I wouldn't want anyone jacking up my trailer when connected. But to be honest to your question I really do not know, but why take the chance they might bend something.......
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:33 PM   #19
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Gee ya got me wondering about jacking while connected to TV with WDH. I just had 4 Marathons put on at Goodyear dealer and they jacked while connected to TV. Never gave it a thought. Too late, but is that any more serious than backing into an un level spot and somewhat racking the frame? What are some thoughts on this jacking while connected?


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Old 08-31-2014, 06:54 PM   #20
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I don't see any issue really. What's the difference in minor jacking, vs. going in an unlevel site, out of a gas station with a big dip, or any other uneven terrain, with the WDH? My driveway puts more strain on a trailer than any jacking. Quite the drop and swoop in our driveway.
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