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08-27-2014, 12:31 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 263
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Wheel Bearings - Over cautious or????
I have a 2010 FR TT that I purchased new.. It now has 6K miles on it.. The axles and hubs are Lippert.. As of yet I have not experienced any hot or higher than normal hub temperatures on any of the 4 wheels. Given my navy background training (preventative maintenance), I think that it would be wise to have them repacked and checked before something occurs. Most of our RV traveling companions are telling me this is a waste of time / money money since no issues have surfaced so far. Opinions ?? Comments?? How often do you check and repack your trailer wheel bearings??
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Ted
2010 T25KS Wildwood
2006 F-250 SD
STGCM(SW) USN Ret 30 yrs.
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08-27-2014, 12:43 PM
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#2
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ARLO
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: N Chili, NY
Posts: 908
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If it were my TT, I would also replace the bearings with a higher quality one made in the USA. Too many stories about the cheap Chinese bearings for me to trust them. Cheap insurance.
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08-27-2014, 01:40 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central New York
Posts: 1,165
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Owner's manual for our axles says repack every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. I have them checked every year - in NY the dealer is required to pull one wheel as part of the annual inspection. They do a visual and make a recommendation on when to do bearings and brakes. Mechanic says it varies, but usually every 2-3 years is typical.
I wouldn't wait until you have a problem - that's for sure. It is fairly pricey to have it done at a dealer, but a little pm can save a lot of headaches later.
As for USA bearings - good luck. They are pretty scarce. Depending on what condition the existing ones are in, you can probably just re-pack and be good to go. If you do replace, its like tires - get a quality brand - that matters more than where its made. Most of Timken's wheel bearings are made in China or someplace outside the US but like a Goodyear Marathon tire, you are gettting a better product than a no-name throw away.
__________________
2022 Columbus 379MBC (Previous 2013 Rockwood Roo 23 IKSS)
2023 F-350 (Previous 2017 F250, 2005 F-150)
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08-27-2014, 01:45 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Most bearing supply houses can get good bearings...you will pay for the luxury. I think the next most important thing is to use good grease. If it's $2-3 dollars... Then keep on looking. Synthetic, No.2, high pressure/high temperature.
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2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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08-27-2014, 01:50 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,137
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Do it!!!!!!!!!
I took mine apart when it was new.
It gives you the chance to look for little broken or worn bits and discoloration, etc..
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FOR SALE 2014 BOSS 6.2L F350
2012 Surveyor SV264
NW Oregon
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08-27-2014, 01:52 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: BoCoMo
Posts: 2,784
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Does your unit come with grease zerks already installed? If it does, just very gently, slowly pump some high temp grease in until all of the old is out. Do not bust the seals on the inside.
My last camper, I hand packed/greased the bearing 3 times in 15 years. If no zerks.... go ahead and hand pack them your self... it is easy.
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Brother Les
2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD
2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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08-27-2014, 02:52 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 88
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preventive maintenance, generally can keep you off the side of road.....if it doesn't have the bearing buddy with grease zerts, I would add those if you can, when you pack them.....I always give my camper a couple of shots each trip.
My opinion, if it is something you are going to keep, then it would not hurt to replace the bearings, since you are going to have it tore down anyway. then keep a couple of the old ones for spare....
Agree with grease choice, dont waste your money on cheap...get a good water resistant syn. high temp bearing grease.....
good luck....
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"Results Not Excuses"
Outlawadventurer
2010 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually 6.7L
2014 Cedar Creek Silverback 35QB4
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08-27-2014, 03:19 PM
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#8
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ARLO
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: N Chili, NY
Posts: 908
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When I worked in the real world years ago, Timken was made in USA.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMP44
Owner's manual for our axles says repack every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. I have them checked every year - in NY the dealer is required to pull one wheel as part of the annual inspection. They do a visual and make a recommendation on when to do bearings and brakes. Mechanic says it varies, but usually every 2-3 years is typical.
I wouldn't wait until you have a problem - that's for sure. It is fairly pricey to have it done at a dealer, but a little pm can save a lot of headaches later.
As for USA bearings - good luck. They are pretty scarce. Depending on what condition the existing ones are in, you can probably just re-pack and be good to go. If you do replace, its like tires - get a quality brand - that matters more than where its made. Most of Timken's wheel bearings are made in China or someplace outside the US but like a Goodyear Marathon tire, you are gettting a better product than a no-name throw away.
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08-27-2014, 03:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 125
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We do about 8000 mls. a year, so I get mine done every year. Camping World has a special for bearing repack, brake adjustment and suspension inspection. It cost about $235.00 for 4 wheels. Could do it myself but for the price it's not worth the trouble. I don't like the buddy bearing caps, don't know what really going on inside unless it's opened up to see. Had friends pump their brakes full of grease by trying to go the cheap way.
CW been doing mine for three yrs now and gives me piece of mind on our travels.
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08-28-2014, 08:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central New York
Posts: 1,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlocicero
When I worked in the real world years ago, Timken was made in USA.
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Add them to the list of "global" companies. They make stuff all over. Most of the Canton OH operation went to India a few years ago.
Still they make a better product than many of the no-name parts out there. I guess you can't blame them when the market is flooded with low price stuff and they have to stay competitive.
__________________
2022 Columbus 379MBC (Previous 2013 Rockwood Roo 23 IKSS)
2023 F-350 (Previous 2017 F250, 2005 F-150)
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08-28-2014, 09:01 AM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,365
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If you have the axles with a zerk built in and that are designed to be lubed, this is what I do.
Make sure you lube them immediately upon purchase; the factory doesn't put much grease in there.
Put several pumps in the zerk every 1,000 miles or so.
Pump in all clean grease at the beginning of each season.
I went 25,000 miles before actually pulling the hubs apart to inspect, pack the bearings, and adjust the brakes. Zero issues, hubs run nice and smooth, and run cool. My bearings looked perfect at 25,000.
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2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
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08-29-2014, 08:10 PM
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#12
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Explorer
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 342
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I do my every Spring but not only for the bearings.
In ten years I have only ever replaced two bearings because the seamed worn(I always do the set and the races).
I have found a broken brake pad, two broken break springs, a broken magnet wire and several blown seals(probably because I pump to much grease in; still learning greased axles). This last year I found significant wear on the drum where the magnet rides. Next year I'll take the drums in to be sure their in specs.
John
__________________
John
2011 Wildwood T26BHXL
2004 Yukon XL Denali
43yrs of camping; one lucky guy
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08-30-2014, 02:28 AM
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#13
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Ret E-9 Anchor-clanker
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Genoa, ILL
Posts: 1,476
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Don & Dona W/yorkies Gizmo, Master Chief, & Tali
2011 Flagstaff 8528 BHSS 2015 Ford 6.7 XLT
2010 Full Timers & Still Going
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08-30-2014, 07:02 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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When I was at the rally they replaced all my hubs and breaks, with a newer aggressive break pads and a bigger magnate. Asked him about the bearings he said 5000 miles or every year. Also said to use 500 degree grease. Asked about timkin , he said they are also made overseas and that these bearings will last just as long. Also said that back seals were ready to blow. Said that even through they have the fitting, do it by hand and do not over fill them. I asked if they fill them at the factory he said no they come pre filled by the Hub people not lippart. I asked him if he was going to add grease and he said no there is plenty in there, only add grease when I repack them. Also got a text from his boss at lippert explaining it to me.
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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08-30-2014, 07:19 AM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,505
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I've heard from folks who found NEW trailers with one or more wheels
needing grease. Apparently some manufacturers rely on the axle
maker to grease the hubs originally. IF the axle folks miss one or don't
put enough grease in one hub- it's on you or your dealer to take care of
it.
I found one of mine had less grease than the others when new but still
OK I think.
I replace/repack/ inspect brakes every 3 or 4 years. MY 08 trailer has
something over 10,000 miles and the brakes still looked fine a couple
weeks ago when I went thru the whole deal including new tires.
I have no issues with the bearing kits from e-trailer.com
Happy Trails!
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Peace!
Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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08-30-2014, 07:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 825
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I travel on average 4 to 6 thousand miles a year. I repack and change the seals every year. Since I do it myself cost is not a factor. It is easy and cheap insurance. I also carry extra bearings with me just in case. But on the flip side I know guys that have not touch their bearings or seals for 5 years and had no problems
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2012 Cedar Creek Silverback 29RE
2011 GMC 2500HD Diesel
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08-30-2014, 08:19 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 263
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Next Question??
I have decided to have by bearings checked, replaced if needed, repacked and new seals installed next week. My questions is this... The trailer will be attached to my truck with a WD hitch.. Since they will be jacking the trailer up (using plate under spring / axel connection), should I take the tension off the WD bars before letting them begin or will it make any difference?...
__________________
Ted
2010 T25KS Wildwood
2006 F-250 SD
STGCM(SW) USN Ret 30 yrs.
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08-31-2014, 02:49 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adony
I have decided to have by bearings checked, replaced if needed, repacked and new seals installed next week. My questions is this... The trailer will be attached to my truck with a WD hitch.. Since they will be jacking the trailer up (using plate under spring / axel connection), should I take the tension off the WD bars before letting them begin or will it make any difference?...
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I would disconnect myself. Just to be safe. I wouldn't want anyone jacking up my trailer when connected. But to be honest to your question I really do not know, but why take the chance they might bend something.......
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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08-31-2014, 06:33 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Stanfordville
Posts: 144
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Gee ya got me wondering about jacking while connected to TV with WDH. I just had 4 Marathons put on at Goodyear dealer and they jacked while connected to TV. Never gave it a thought. Too late, but is that any more serious than backing into an un level spot and somewhat racking the frame? What are some thoughts on this jacking while connected?
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Poper
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08-31-2014, 06:54 PM
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#20
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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I don't see any issue really. What's the difference in minor jacking, vs. going in an unlevel site, out of a gas station with a big dip, or any other uneven terrain, with the WDH? My driveway puts more strain on a trailer than any jacking. Quite the drop and swoop in our driveway.
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John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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