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Old 05-18-2019, 08:13 PM   #81
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So I finally got around to repacking today. Well, actually I'm replacing the bearings just to be safe since they are cheap. I was terrified to open everything up, based on so many of you all finding that bearings from the factory barely had any grease. Luckily, mine had tons of grease when I opened them. Everything looked to be in good condition. I found no pitting or damage. I cleaned things up and put it back together. Two wheels down, to to go.

Only problem was getting replacement seals. I have not figured out how to remove the seal without destroying it. First auto parts store had no idea what they were looking at when I brought the drum and bearings in. The clerk was terrified when he saw the rubbing from the brake magnet and wanted to sell me a new drum (see my other thread on this). He was unable to find a seal and couldn't find the bearings. The second store I went to was able to find me the seals, after LOTS of looking. Unfortunately, they only stock enough bearings and seals for me to do two wheels.

I was a little bummed since I read many folks here saying that you could just take your stuff to any auto parts store and they'd have what you need. My need for instant gratification was not met today. Every shop in town had to order from another store. But at least now I have all the part number for the future!

Thanks for the encouragement to tackle the job!
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:24 PM   #82
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I have not figured out how to remove the seal without destroying it.
You can't. You always replace the seal.
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:29 PM   #83
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The seal is a one time use thing. Get a seal removal tool and you can use a flat piece of wood to seat the replacement flush with the hub inner surface, or if you want, buy a seal tool. Grease removal tool looks like this. You just hook one end under the edge of the seal and lever it up -yes it will deform the seal so do not even think of trying to reuse it. Tool should run less than $10 at pretty much any auto parts store. Try NAPA for the seals and ask for Timken or National seals.

When you pull the old one out, there should be a number engraved on it, or it may be molded into the little rubber ring. That is the part number. The store should have a conversion chart as each company seems to use their own number for the same seal.

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Old 05-22-2019, 10:17 AM   #84
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So I finally got around to repacking today. Well, actually I'm replacing the bearings just to be safe since they are cheap.
If the bearings are in good shape I prefer to reuse them. I know they are already a good bearing, and since I regularly maintain and inspect them, there's no reason for them to suddenly fail. In aviation we can have bearings go thousands of hours of use before they need to be replaced. On our trailer they might see 80-100 hours in a year?
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:06 PM   #85
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After reading through a couple of catastrophic bearing failures, I decided to hand repack bearings and have tires balanced on my 8 month old 2019 A-frame. Took the tires to be balanced and went to my favorite car parts place for rear seals. Clerk stared at me as if I was stupid, even though I had the Dexter bearing and seal numbers from the Dexter web site (I didn't want to pull the hub until I had seals in hand). The 2nd car parts place had a "cheat sheet" with common trailer hubs, their parts, and the National equivalents.


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2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame with 10x2.25 Dexter hubs and Castle Rock tires
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:22 PM   #86
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After reading through a couple of catastrophic bearing failures, I decided to hand repack bearings and have tires balanced on my 8 month old 2019 A-frame. Took the tires to be balanced and went to my favorite car parts place for rear seals. Clerk stared at me as if I was stupid, even though I had the Dexter bearing and seal numbers from the Dexter web site (I didn't want to pull the hub until I had seals in hand). The 2nd car parts place had a "cheat sheet" with common trailer hubs, their parts, and the National equivalents.


Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame with 10x2.25 Dexter hubs and Castle Rock tires
"Auto Parts Stores" have deteriorated over the years. Time was you could walk in, tell someone behind the counter what you needed and the counter person understood immediately.

Today most don't have a clue. They have to search the computer until they think they've found what you want.

When I need seals or bearings I go to the vehicle dealer and if for my trailers I go to a local truck supply company that stocks trailer axle parts. Any price difference by going to dealer is offset by the reduced chance of wrong or poor quality part.

I also don't have to put up with the blank stares from the average chain parts store counter person.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:05 PM   #87
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On borrowed time...

Man after reading all these stories of you guys repacking the bearings in your 2018 and newer TT's, I'm thinking I had better take a look at my '96 Wildwood bearings. I've owned this trailer for 3 years now and have no idea if it has ever been repacked. I've taken this trailer on a couple of 1k+ mile trips and who knows how many times I've drug it off-road through the desert since I've owned it. I'm a ride it till the wheels fall off kind of guy, however, I do try to keep those wheels on for as long as I can.

Thanks for sharing all your stories and your info. I'm excited to see how close I came to having an issue.
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