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Old 01-08-2015, 02:29 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RhoZeta View Post
This may wrinkle a few feathers here but I have to say something, WD40 would be one of the absolute WORST things you could use, a close second would be any kind of silicone.
What should be used is the very fluid that they are in while retracted, which is whatever hydraulic fluid your system uses. If you take some on a clean rag and wipe the chrome while extended just before retracting you will be doing it a world of good.
This is the way aircraft are done and I promise you a lot of high dollar engineering has gone into that simple process requirement.

Find the spec for what your system uses and purchase a small amount that could be kept in a closeable squeeze bottle and throw it in the front bay and wipe them down before each retraction.
You beat me to it regarding the aircraft part. Most airline maintenance programs require wiping down the exposed inner struct chrome of the landing gears on each overnight check. The airline I oversaw required damping a rag in 5606 hydraulic oil to do the job.

Granted that the materials used in transport category airport landing gears is far superior to RV landing gears and also that these landing gears hydraulic cylinders have double seals,it still is the most effective way to keep your RV landing gear working properly.

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Old 01-08-2015, 04:21 PM   #12
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The only comment I have is that the owners manual says silicon but I do agree with the hydraulic fluid point.

Tim and Bev
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Old 01-08-2015, 04:33 PM   #13
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Great Recomendation

No feathers ruffled here ! Thanks for your recomendation to use
hydraulic fluid to clean the hydraulic cylinders ! For sure that
shouldn't damage the "O" rings !
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:59 PM   #14
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Location: Anacortes, WA
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You can't wrap the pistons - they're inside the cylinder. What you're talking about are the piston-rods, which extend from the cylinder as they operated.

Th first winter after we got our MH, I lifted it off the suspension with the jacks to take some of the weight off the tires. Within a week, there were rust patches on the rods. I polished them out and put the MH back on it wheels.

I contacted the manufacturer of the jacking system about salt air corrosion. They said the piston rods should be fine as long as we weren't "close to salt water". I queried how "close" and they replied "within 60 miles". We're within 60 yards - the homes across the street are salt-water marina waterfront.

I never left the MH on jacks at home after that correspondence. Since we sold it in December, it's not an issue any more. We're officially ex-RVers, with no plans to re-start the lifestyle.
Frank and Eileen
No longer RVers or FR owners
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:09 PM   #15
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Thanks Frank for that info. Our rig is parked 15 feet from salt water-- so the jacks will stay up!!
John & Susan, Olivia the dachsaund
2011 Georgetown 337DS
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Hampton Roads VA
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Old 01-09-2015, 07:06 PM   #16
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Too each his own but the hydraulic rams used on our rigs are cheaply made and has very little chrome. They will pit and eventually cause leaks. I would coat my lightly with grease and then wrap. Unwrap and wipe clean before using. campingnut and klaatu have good ideas.

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Old 01-09-2015, 09:13 PM   #17
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The best method for wiping down exposed piston areas is to use the fluid that drives the system. Most RV trailer hydraulic systems us some sort of automatic transmission fluid. Periodically wiping down the exposed areas will help lubricate the scrapers, wipers and seals and keep the exposed areas clean of harmful debris and/or corrosion.


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