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Old 12-09-2012, 10:13 AM   #11
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I do have my opinion regarding this issue but I am always open to accept new technology. When that happens I will change my opinion. Here's my concern Is there something about the AL-KO Ultrulube design set up that will prevent the rear seal from blowing out if to much grease is pumped into the axle hub??? When the grease is pumped into the hub it usually passes through a narrow passage way to get to the inner bearing. When that grease is replaced with the new then the grease travels outward and eventually replaces the hub grease and the outer wheel bearing grease. Maybe the AL-KO set up prevents the seals from blowing out. I'll look them up on the net to see.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:48 AM   #12
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I do have my opinion regarding this issue but I am always open to accept new technology. When that happens I will change my opinion. Here's my concern Is there something about the AL-KO Ultrulube design set up that will prevent the rear seal from blowing out if to much grease is pumped into the axle hub??? When the grease is pumped into the hub it usually passes through a narrow passage way to get to the inner bearing. When that grease is replaced with the new then the grease travels outward and eventually replaces the hub grease and the outer wheel bearing grease. Maybe the AL-KO set up prevents the seals from blowing out. I'll look them up on the net to see.
TeJay
What you describe is exactly what happens, you could pump gallons of grease in and gallons will come out the front, however (as Herk mentioned) there is a possibility pressure type grease guns could pump in faster than it can make its way so it could exert too much force on the rear seal and blow grease out there too. AL-KO do not mention this possibility at all, not even as a get out clause so maybe this is not an issue to be too concerned about.

Here's another thing, the AL-KO system, unlike conventional type hand packed bearings, displaces all the air, this is a good thing. Air expands when hot and can help force grease past a rear seal, and worse, on a boat trailer when a drum rapidly cools when reversed into the ocean the contracting air pocket can create a partial vacuum and suck sea water past the seal into the bearings for this reason I have fitted Bearing Buddies to my boat trailer bearings, these mimic the AL-KO system by allowing me to pump grease until it flows out the front thus eliminating air pockets.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:03 AM   #13
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The rear seals can be blow out by just using a hand pump grease gun. I followed the instructions in my info pack I received with the unit. Old grease was exiting from the from but it was also going past the rear seals. I did not know till going down a long hill in northern Ont. It is not a pleasure trying to stop your trailer on a steep hill using the truck brakes. My trailer does not have the grease fittings on the hubs any longer. I only grease the bearing the old way. I do not want to have the rear seals leak again. I know that many people have good luck with the greasing of the hub. But if a rear seal is leaking you do not know until it it too late and you have no brakes on the trailer.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:08 AM   #14
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The rear seals can be blow out by just using a hand pump grease gun. I followed the instructions in my info pack I received with the unit. Old grease was exiting from the from but it was also going past the rear seals. I did not know till going down a long hill in northern Ont. It is not a pleasure trying to stop your trailer on a steep hill using the truck brakes. My trailer does not have the grease fittings on the hubs any longer. I only grease the bearing the old way. I do not want to have the rear seals leak again. I know that many people have good luck with the greasing of the hub. But if a rear seal is leaking you do not know until it it too late and you have no brakes on the trailer.
Were these AL-KO bearings or conventional bearings with Bearing Buddies?
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:25 AM   #15
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The rear seals can be blow out by just using a hand pump grease gun. I followed the instructions in my info pack I received with the unit. Old grease was exiting from the from but it was also going past the rear seals. I did not know till going down a long hill in northern Ont. It is not a pleasure trying to stop your trailer on a steep hill using the truck brakes. My trailer does not have the grease fittings on the hubs any longer. I only grease the bearing the old way. I do not want to have the rear seals leak again. I know that many people have good luck with the greasing of the hub. But if a rear seal is leaking you do not know until it it too late and you have no brakes on the trailer.
There are other reasons your rear seals where blown out and it had little to do with using a hand grease gun! The seal could have faulty, or excessive heat on the hub could have weakened it? The rate at which the grease is inserted, the type of grease, or perhaps even a slight blockage in the passages where it exits out the cap could all contribute to allowing it pass the rear seal!
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:56 PM   #16
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They were AL-KO hubs. I agree that the seals could have been faulty. I used the grease recommended by AL-KO. The seals could have been faulty. But when going down a 8% grade hill and no brakes on the TT makes for a white knuckle ride. Because of the experience I will no longer be using the grease fittings on the hub to apply grease. Plus after talking to 4 different RV repair facilities and having all the repairs tech. say that the AL-KO fitting should not be used I will be greasing my bearing the old way.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:13 PM   #17
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OK, I taught High School for 35 years. Since I started in 1971 we had a lot of wheel bearings to pack & adjust. We had no front wheel drive & the rear axle bearings were lubed by the 70-90 WT axle lube from the differential.
In all my years I never had a seal fail on any student, faculty, or personnel vehicle. I did discover some failed seals upon initial inspection. I have often re-used the same seal. All bearings were hand packed. I also never advocated packing the hub full of grease. A 1/4" layer of grease inside the hub to control moisture build up was all I ever recommended. When the hub is filled with grease it prevents or slows down the release of the bearing and brake heat. All heat must escape & or be transferred to the hub & then the drum or rotor. The extra grease will affect that transfer or easy flow of heat.

I am out on the Eastern shore in MD visiting my Son & his family. There are tons of big & small boat trailers here. I've observed & most don't have suspensions or shocks. They probably have brakes, either hydraulic or electric. If boat trailers, as I suspect, were the forerunners of TT frames I see why they are what they are. Brake buddies, Never-Lube, short cut methods to lubing wheel bearings that don't really need to be done as recommend because they are not immersed into the lake weekly. This is why, I believe we have this system that allows the consumer to short circuit the usual good methods, hand packing bearings, to save some time.

I'll stick with what I know will work because it has in the past & will for the future. The only change I made was to synthetic lube when it became available. JMTCW
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:08 PM   #18
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I always wonder if when they pull the hub off the spindle if mechanics take care to ensure the seal face does not contact the threads. Even a minor scrape might damage a rear axle seal and make it susceptible to blow out with even moderate grease pressure, I would think.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:44 PM   #19
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That's a cool graphic herk, I was always careful removing the hub off the spindle so that I might be able to reuse the seal, however exercised much more caution on the re-installation because that is where it is really important. If you remove it and see damage you can replace it. How many look at the seal real close before re-install?
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:50 PM   #20
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Which brings us around yet again to the same old question: How come I can buy a new car and the bearings will last +100000 miles without ever giving them a thought?
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